AlZilla

Pictures, front and back, are definitely needed. Some of that old gun leather can be worth a few bucks, more often under $40. @Rednichols hasn't been here in quite a while, but maybe this tag will send him an email and he'll chime in. Need to get pics up soon! If Red happens by, he'll know exactly what you have.

I still need to get pictures posted but I can report SUCCESS repairing this motor! I replaced both bearings and it sounds fine now. Very easy job with a small gear/bearing puller. The bearings seat against a stop on the shaft, so zero worry about getting them back in position. I'll say that getting the case back together correctly takes patience and a gentle touch. Each end is very tightly fitted to the case. It takes very gentle tapping to get them seated all the way and then slowly tightening the 4 screws on each end in a repeated cross pattern. I believe that part of my original noise was from the case being misaligned due to the beating it took in transit. I wouldn't hesitate to do this job again.

I think some closer up pictures of that machine would be interesting. The text on the first pic didn't turn out well, but I think if you blow it up, there may be a walking foot back there

Since we're talking about stitching, I wonder why a few random stitches on the lower part of the loop have bottom thread peeking through. But not the top part. I wonder if something on the machine is slightly misadjusted. Almost like the tension drops away for 1 stitch. Maybe something about making a sweep in one direction and not the other?

I love it. I use those same conchos every chance I get. Good Choice!

Slipped this over to leather sewing machines. It might make a difference which Pfaff you got. If it's a standard industrial with the motor under the table, swapping the motor out might solve part of it. If it doesn't care about the source of it's compressed air, a small contractor compressor might be the rest of the solution.

This post contains @Wizcrafts recent dissertation on all things Check Spring.

That's a great holster, first one or not. I think I see where you're talking about on the stitching but it's no big issue. Julia Child said don't tell your guests what's wrong with your food and they'll never figure it out. The height of the belt loop slots might keep the top of the firearm from torquing out. I suspect this is more a fat guy problem

Locked and archived. OP appears to have abandoned the ad.

There are a number of people on this forum that, when they speak about sewing machines, you listen like they're E. F. Hutton. Congrats on learning even more about your sewing machine.

I moved this over to "Sewing Leather", where it should get some attention.

@Charles_Bandolero, you have some interest. We need to get this one in compliance quickly, please.

Moved to Leather Sewing Machines since we don't have a "Rubber Sewing Machines" section ... Still a better shot at some help.

Well, that's certainly an improvement. I wish I had a clue why it's doing that. Maybe @Wizcrafts, @kgg or @Uwe will happen by and be able to explain it.

Hey. @NancyLou, would you upload this to Youtube and give us a link? I'm at 60 megs and counting. Most won't DL it and I'd guess BossLady might not want to buy all that bandwidth if they did... @Johanna EDIT: I gave up at 200 megs. I'm inclined to remove it unless Johanna wants to leave it up. See Post 4 for Youtube version. Thanks NancyLou!

I got a pig in a poke used servo motor with a parameter sheet that doesn't quite match up. I went through and made the best sheet I could based on playing with the knobs. P2 and P4 are the same. The printed sheet had far fewer entrys than the control box gives me. P10 to 012 seem to be for automatic sewing of some kind. It'll run and stop the the number of seconds specified by 11 and 12, repeatedly until you cut the power. Turn the switch on, it cycles until you turn it back off. No idea of the brand. If anybody knows or cares to speculate about the mystery parameters, I'm all ears. I have enough to make it work.

If it has a Singer flatbed industrial size base, any industrial sewing machine dealer can sell you a table and whatever else you need. If the base or your needs are out of the ordinary, we'll need more information. More information and a picture of the head should get you more information than you'll ever need. These guys love to type about sewing machines. I'll break this off the tail end of a 16 year old thread, Hopefully, you can fill in some blanks ...

Quite nice. Very skillful hand with those stamping tools, too.

You should list these over in The Marketplace. Please read and follow the rules so we don't end up chasing you for some scrap of information.

The executive summary at this point is that I believe the noise is in the bearings, but taking it apart and reassembling it quieted it down by more than half. My current theory is bearing damage and the case was torqued out of alignment by the beating it took in transit. I've taken it apart and examined it to the best of my ability and tools. I find nothing with excessive runout out or bent out of detectable shape. I took high res photos to look for cracks and found none. I've ordered bearings which arrive tomorrow. I need to get an appropriate puller as all mine are automotive type. The bearings are 15mm id, 9mm wide and 32mm od. 6002-rz is the part number and they're available for a few bucks each on Amazon. I'll upload pictures of the disassembly for the next hapless adventurer. Further updates when I get around to swapping the bearings.

Well, I for one love it. I have about 3 dozen domestics. The short answer is sewing machine oil and cotton swabs. The longer answer is at Quilting Board Forum, the 3rd post down. Especially the decals. They're not silvered like so many are, so be delicate and keep it away from direct sunlight. Also, don't carry it by that handle as it's not really meant for that. EDIT: My attitude is conservation, not restoration.

You should probably go read Wizcrafts experience posted above. Looks like he got 346 though it but only after a fashion. Might want to pick his brain directly with exactly what you want to do before spending a lot of time and money.

Hey @NancyLou, i moved you over to Leather Sewing Machines. I know it doesn't seem quite right since you're not sewing leather, but Help Wanted is for people wanting to find someone to do a job, essentially. I don't know why it required moderator approval. We'll keep an eye out for your next post and see what happens. The big screw you mention holds the opener that pulls the bobbin case back to allow the needle thread to pass around the bobbin. Clear as mud, I know. I don't think any of mine are all the way forward, so it could be out of adjustment. Also, the thread being under the lever that holds the bobbin in place isn't remotely correct. Let me go see if I can find one of Uwe's phenomenal videos about how to set that case opener. EDIT: 48 seconds from Alexander Dyer will do the trick, too:

Yeah, and the resistance is right there at the top as that flat spot comes across. Good for you being cautious, most people just force things. To me, it looks and sounds like normal operation. There's a video somewhere of Leather Machine Co breaking in new machines. They run them for several hours straight in an oil bath. Another poster here said he does something similar with his new machines.

Hi @Charles_Bandolero Per the Marketplace Rules we also need pictures and your shipping info or if it must be picked up and where. We'll appreciate prompt compliance. Good luck with your sale!