AlZilla

If I'm understanding what you want, it's a 6 strand braid. Here are links for a round and a flat. Plenty of utube videos, too. Maybe I misunderstand and you want something more complicated? https://www.instructables.com/6-Strand-Round-Braid/ https://www.instructables.com/Six-Strand-Flat-Braid/

You can get craft foam at most places that carry craft supplies. I get it in copy paper sized sheets, about an eighth inch thick. It's great for prototyping. Better than paper and dirt cheap.

Well, you can't argue with success. You'll encounter limitations like how thick it'll sew or maybe the layers shifting. Certainly, thickness of the thread it'll use will be limited. But if it's serving your needs, you've got a winner. Get some leather needles, keep it well lubed and be grateful for your thoughtful wife.

Well, it never occurred to me to do that. Genius. I guess I'm going to dig that thing back out ...

I've used a food vac sealer a few times. The only drawback is that the bags are textured on the inside, which imprints on your workpiece. Unless you like the texture. Pricing would just be materials, time and a markup. I don't know if that particular sheath, molded for that style of knife, is commercially available, so that might get a premium. Very expertly done.

@chuck123wapati it's definitely not a handcrafted product. But it's still a product and one with a much bigger market than $300 handcrafted leather belts. There's no shame in selling to both markets. Imagine how many you could turn out in a day with pre-made, dyed belt blanks. 5 minutes punching the ends, after 1 minute of sewing. Now, to sell that many ...

Another thing - I was having a similar issue with my 111W. Thread hanging up in the bobbin and causing thread doubled up, an extra thread sometimes dragging along the stitch line. I was holding the thread back too hard and the top thread would split on the point of the hook. I picked this up from somewhere I read to hold the thread back hard. Which is applicable to my 441 clone. Since I started holding the 111 threads back lightly, like on a domestic, zero problems. I don't know if this is your problem, it just struck me when I saw your problem.

I can get nice veg tan 9oz belt blanks for about $7. If I had a market for quantities of belts, I'd think about it.

Looks like about 60 seconds to fully sew a leather belt.

Yep, what he said. Tap them to whatever you can find locally.

That's fun. There was a rebound bible on here lately that made me want to try my hand at it.

Essentially, you made a tapered spacer and put it in behind the blade, at the top?

Well, the first half of 1907, anyway. No indication of the subclass. https://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/serial-numbers/singer-s-series-serial-numbers.html Doesn't really matter anyway. That machine should do 2mm garment leather, unless you get into too many layers. Get leather needles. Your thread will probably top out at v69. Lube it well and listen to it. If it sounds like it's hammering, you're overtaxing it.

The whatever is worth, I think you could do a 25 meg attachment with Gmail. You should be able to set up a Gmail account easily enough.

I'm going to be the enabler here and say "Buy them both". I have a 111W and you'll find it's just a workhorse and quite versatile due, as Bob says, to the variety of feet. Also, I think, to the vast number of people who have experience with them and can coach you through learning and troubleshooting. I have a 22W I need to get running, a twin needle bottom feed. If that 112W is a triple feed, I'd be fascinated by it. How about some nice twin needle decorative stitching on a belt or holster? Woo hoo! If the twin interests you and you HAVE to choose, it might be the one to get. After all, how often do you see a 112 vs 155? Somebody was using my 22W as a single needle - they had disabled the second hook.

A worthy sheath for a Randall. I'd be interested in how you slotted the blade away from the back. Early on I made a sheath for a Ka-Bar and ended up letting it rattle around because of the width of the guard.

Nicely done. I like the use of different leathers inside and out.

Nothing. The retailer keeps it to partially cover the cost of the paper sack. It's just a punishment meted out by the enviro-crowd political class for people who refuse to carry their nasty, dirty reusable bags in and out of the grocery store. To be clear, micro-plastics is the first environmental "crisis" I've ever bought into and I'm completely on board with reducing plastic in the environment. I don't need to be punished into it.

Well, thanks for all that shopping cart and drink cup information. I could see it working. In my part of the world, our politicians outlawed plastic shopping bags and mandated a 5 cent fee for paper bags. Some people go to all sorts of lengths to avoid "paying" for grocery bags. It's become quite a bone of contention.

I'm probably going to feel like a dummy when I get the answer, but ... What is this thing for? Are shopping carts in the rest of the world locked up somehow?

I've used 2/3 up to 5/6. 2/3 is plenty.

NoYes, the top is supposed to be right side to wrong, but I think yours looks fine. The one thing I'd say is maybe hand stitch that back seam. I like the way it looks, even if I see mine has a gap now.

Yeah, interesting. I think that very top is supposed to be right sides together but what you did sidesteps a lot of the problems with machine sewing it. Unless I misread the patterns. Did you also combine the bottom stitch of the hat band with the bottom of the crown and brim? It's not remotely ugly. Nice work.

My first Industrial was a 111W153 that someone gifted me, table, clutch motor and all. I spent countless hours cleaning, freeing it up, taking it apart, putting it together and learning why I really didn't want a clutch motor for leather work. The lack of reverse doesn't really bother me. If I try to go back over more than about 2 stitches, it starts to look messy. I usually use the "stop, pull it back and sew over it again" method on bigger pieces. Smaller stuff, I start a stitch or two down the line, sew to the "beginning" and then turn it the "right" way. Or, leave long tails on one or both ends and tie it off like a saddle stitch. It was and still is a great learning tool for me. I keep it threaded up with 138 and it does a variety of things from jeans to 5/16" of leather. All that is to say, I agree. For the OP, I hope he gets into something along those lines. That Consew earlier in the thread looks like a great starting point. For $600, I'm assuming Canadian, it definitely looks like a great starting point.

when I was considering it, I thought to use the premarked punch holes to determine the exact center, front and back, of all the pieces. Then punch or awl them together, no different than working with fabric. Maybe hand sew the tops and machine the bottom. You've got one spot at the top where the top and crown pieces all meet. The other drawback to that would be matching threads top and bottom.