AlZilla

After struggling with lead free solders, I silver soldered dissimilar metals (copper and stainless) using Stay-Brite 8, liquid acid flux and Mapp Gas. That flow through problem is a tough one. How about filling it with epoxy?

Definitely like the elongated / asymmetrical quilting. I've done a few on a squared pattern. I'm certainly going to stretch it out next time. Nice work, good aesthetic.

Here are a bunch of manuals: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/85809-pfaff-345-service-manual-download/?do=findComment&comment=582713 This thread talks a little about timing a 335: Maybe it'll help. It also mentions needlebar height. I don't know if it could slip enough to go 180 degrees out. Maybe one of the big dogs will sniff this one out and have an easier answer for you.

For 300 bucks in working order, I'd be on it like white on rice. A cylinder arm might be more useful for bags, depending on the bag and construction method.

Stop reading, go buy it. You'll always get your money back if you decide you don't like it.

In fact, the NFO might resist the black dye. It looks fine. Highlights the snowflakes.

You need to find out what 45K subclass it is. https://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-list/classes-1-99.html Scroll down to the 45 section and even in they cylinder arm configuration there are a lot of variants. Some for heavy leather, some for bags, shoe vamps and things that make me question how much clearance there is under the presser foot. But it's really cute. EDIT: 45K1 says it has 1/2" presser foot clearance. Maybe they all do.

Hey, congrats on a quick resolution. Way too often people go straight to Defcon 1 instead of just calmly explaining their concern and letting the vendor respond.

Contact them, explain it just as you have here and ask if they have any ideas. They might be aware of an issue. Maybe you'll come back and report on a company that took great care of you.

I have an aluminum table and live in a colder climate. That metal table can be pretty uncomfortable.

I like that they proactively kept you updated. Good company, I'd say.

@adventureleather Thanks for your report and especially the video. It really shows how it runs. I really want one of these, I just can't justify the expense with as infrequently as I use the machine.

Man, if the seller damaged it loading - take it back and get a refund. You bought a sewing machine, not a project. Good luck, whatever you decide.

You're getting to make the whole rig, and I'm jealous. I love all that western gear and have no need of it. I did make a couple of holsters that sit 4 or so inches below the belt. I like it a hell of a lot better than a regular belt holster. Just ask the end user what he wants for retention.

It seems like a welt would open it up if the lining has made it smaller. Its probably worth continuing just because you don't know. For me, 6-ish oz works for holsters. I know everyone likes a thicker leather because it wears better, but for me I like the lightness, it wet molds and holds shape. So why do I care if it wears? I'll make another.

I found this document (attached) , linked from which is freely available here: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/fguixlhek7y5jvvxd3d8j/AEP74cNQFHNPsDaZBdjdKDk/!CD 3.27/000 - General Notes/Replacing Leather?dl=0&rlkey=bzktg0ha776n5dy3mdax8nys4&subfolder_nav_tracking=1 replacing leather.pdf

Yes it does and I'll try it next time I handstitch. Sounds like one of small tweaks we learn along the way. Thanks for the tip off!

That is some enviable hand stitching. It can be so hard getting the stitches on BOTH sides to look great. I usually manage to wobble that pricking iron and my backsides wander. Most impressive work.

No idea of the market but why not bullet loops on one side and artwork on the other? You've covered it all.

I cant get it to play long enough to get a good look but the hub appears to wobble. So it's pretty much a bent shaft. It probably banged around in a pickup truck or other barbarous condition.

I like it. I think it almost all works on some level. The, I think trees, on the top seem awkward. The stamp on the very bottom/left is just out of place. I could see pieces of this embellishing some wallet, bag or something. How about some watered down dyes to create a color wash here and there?

Good of you to follow up and not leave this companies reputation in doubt.

Nice work! I was wondering how you were going to get the bottom cleats as perfect as they need to be.

Google should have sent you right back here for the needle/thread trick.

@Patrick1, good thinking, extending it to the left. I have one that extends to the pillar - definitely see the increased versatility with this design.