AlZilla

There's a youtube video of Alexander Dyer using a Cobra class 26 and sewing canvas to plywood. I think it'll sew kydex.

I'm not Walter but the answer is ... it's an undershot wheel.

And maybe 5000 meters of it?

I missed this back when it was posted. The toe loop and skirt is my favorite design. The strap is exactly what it ought to be for that holster, though I admit to liking Marshall Will's design. He keeps the design and changes the functionality. A thumb snap on the inside is going to be difficult to close. I prefer a deeper drop so my arm doesn't have to bend much to grasp the gun. I made a couple for a Glock 21. Totally out of character for that weapon but carries very well. Very, very nice work!

Yeah, @dikman is right, there are tons of threads about speed reducers. This page https://tolindsewmach.com/motors.html has the 2 basic styles you see at the bottom of the page. You can also DIY it with parts from the hardware store, an axle of some kind, a couple of pulleys and pillow blocks. Only limited by your imagination. For me, the cost of the parts is high enough that I've just bought commercial ones.

Sorry, I just don't see any flaws. I really, really like the stamping.

Maybe I'm wrong, I assumed the stitch length lever also served as the reverse.

I'm surprised the big dogs haven't looked in here and given you chapter and verse on that thing. Maybe if I throw a few dog biscuits out here ... @kgg , @Uwe , @Wizcrafts , @CowboyBob ... One of these guys should know exactly what you have without looking at pictures on the internet and keep me from steering you wrong.

Yep, @DwightT beat me to it. I back stitch anyway but I like pulling the ends out between the layers, tying a double knot and dropping a little crazy glue in there.

The usual way - looking at pictures on the internet. The reverse lever seems to be a unique shape to the 1. I could be all the way out in left field.

It bears an uncanny resemblance to a Consew 206rb-1. This manual might be what you need: https://www.manualslib.com/download/1302047/Consew-206rb.html

Sewing in that gusset was a real tour de force of stitching prowess. I'm imagining the process of keeping it all aligned, punching and stitching not just on the curve but with a couple of hard turns AND the edges turned at a 90. If you make another one, some video of that magical feat would be great to watch. Interesting work, as usual.

Any kind of nut that will thread on there should do the trick. The OE part is probably a thumb screw but anything you can run on there, I'd expect to function fine. A washer between the spring and nut would be a good idea.

Very precise, clean work and it should give you years of service. I think the texture of that particular piece of leather is quite nice, too. Since you mentioned thread size and strength, I'll note that size for size, nylon or polyester thread has a higher tensile strength than cotton. The usual standard mentioned around here for service/duty gear is size 277 thread which has a breaking strength around 45 pounds. Since I doubt any perps are going to try wrestling your weapon from you, I think you'll be ok ... Do you glue your welt stack before you punch and sew it?

On unpainted surfaces, it really doesn't matter a lot. On painted surfaces, sewing machine oil on a cotton cloth is the most gentle. After that, I try plain old hand cleaner without pumice (I'll link to it since I have no idea what's available in Slovenia). After that, the alcohol is an option with the caveat that it can damage the paint. WD-40 mentioned above is not a bad middle ground either. Test any of it in an inconspicuous spot before you slobber the whole machine up with it. https://goophandcleaner.com/original-goop-multi-purpose-hand-cleaner Congratulations on the new machine!

I don't that's correct. Prior to 1900, Singer machines had serial numbers but no letter prefix. Post 1900. everything started with a letter.

I used a Food Saver or whatever brand vacuum sealer for a couple. The only drawback was the bags have a texture that transferred to the surface of the leather.

"but without the devastating environmental impact of cattle" ... Oh, and the sky is falling, too. Just saying ... CowFarts - Public Enemy #1!!

Actually, a quick search for mycelium "leather" turns up a ton of links like this one: https://mylo-unleather.com/ It's "leather", not leather.

So it sounds to me like you're looking to start manufacturing a new product and promoting it here. Might have bee easier to start there. Probably get less opposition if you don't call it leather, since it's not. Kind of like plant based chi'kn - on it's own merits, some of it is passable, but it's not meat.

Hey, nice work! Keep us posted on how it works out!

Is the presser foot just pushing the feed dog? Try it with the presser foot up. I've often observed a little catch when freewheeling a machine as the feed dog rises to the presser foot.

If you're confident setting up and tuning a machine, you have lots of options. If you want something that just works, straight out of the box and you have dealer support you can count on ... Either Toledo Industrial or Leather Machine Co. Toledo is quite active on the forum and frequently jumps in to help people with machines they bought elsewhere. Either one can offer a competent recommendation. Just my .02

These guys have a manual for it: https://www.manualslib.com/products/Pfaff-546-3553107.html

I don't think you'd need a lathe. The holes I'm seeing have set screws in them so they really just need to be close enough to fit well over whatever shaft they engage. Other than that, they're just little arms. Having originals to pattern from would be nice but I don't think critical. Edit: Don't those parts diagrams usually say something like "Full Size", "Quarter Size" or something like that? That might get you in the ballpark.