AlZilla

I've always seen that 135x17 is the fabric and ,135x16 are the leather. Well, this is how the 135x16s I just bought are labeled. I'm just bellyaching ... I sent the first set back because I didn't see the 135x16. Oh well ...

I'm wondering if the minimum speed issue is to decrease heat. I've read that 300 is where heat dissipation is adequate (maybe for sustained operation?). Possibly 200 is banking on the user not staying at 200 for longer periods? I've also noticed that some of these cheaper motors have actual cooling fins on the outside of the body, where others just have undulations cast into them. My current motor with a 100 rpm minimum start speed has the cooling fins on the case. I'll have to start noticing if there's any correlation. Also, based on my recent disassembly of a cheap servo, the fan built into the end is just flat paddles running next to the closed end of the motor. No circulation at all. I think a small computer type fan blowing on the motor housing would really up the cooling game. It's on my to do list, even though with my low volume of sewing, I don't think heat is going to be an issue.

And maybe there's a distinction between brushed and brushless.

The top thread on a machine stitch saws back and forth something like 50 times. Remember that the tension arm way up at the top of the machine is letting it get pulled around the bobbin each rotation and then yanked back up. I was surprised when I first heard it. You are correct about the bobbin thread having an easy time of it. I'm glad this post finally got some traction.

Oddly, most everything I've seen about the cheaper servos is that they lack torque in the low end. I don't know ...

Those are very informative charts. I'd really like to see the same data on lower end servos.

On the other-other hand, these digital servos suffer from low torque at low speeds. With enough reduction we can run the motor a little faster, where it might be a little happier and still have decent torque. If the machine will stand up to the torque of a clutch motor at 1700 rpm to 3400 rpm, I doubt even a torque increased servo is going to damage them. Now I need to go find out the torque put out by those old clutch motors. EDIT: So the rated torque of the clutch is about the same as the servo (which makes sense). But the giant spinning mass of that clutch motor has got to pack a pretty healthy wallop.

i used it today with the current 65mm motor pulley and it hand wheels just fine. If it's any different with the 30MM pulley, I'll report back.

I ordered the same one you did. I couldn't find one for a 3L belt. If it's a problem, I'll just throw a round leather belt on it. I ran that machine for several months on one.. They work fine. I think the narrow pulleys are intended for those round rubber belts you melt together. PU, maybe? There are also narrower V belts. I'll make it work.

I've wondered how much torque increase we get from speed reducers. Is it inverse to the speed reduction? Turns out it is. If your speed reducer provides 1:3 speed reduction, you're getting a 3:1 torque increase. (The following assumes a start up speed of 100 rpm at the motor) But, even though you can put a 30MM (basically 1.18 inch) pulley on your motor against a 3" hand wheel and end up with a final decrease of 1:2.5 (39 rpm) and corresponding torque increase, you're still better off throwing a 1:3 speed reducer in the middle. Adding the typical 2"/6" speed reducer to the above gives you a speed reduction and torque increase factor of a whopping 7.58. Most of what I've read indicates that servos want to run at or above 300 rpm for cooling. The setup imagined above with the speed reducer would be around 40 stitches per minute at a 300 rpm motor speed. (it's not only imagined, it's bolted onto my 111W153, patiently awaiting the 30MM pulley) duck.ai provided confirmation about the torque increase. Now properly credited, here's what it had to say: Understanding Torque and Speed in Pulley Systems Torque and Speed Relationship In a pulley reduction system, torque and speed have an inverse relationship. When the speed of the driven pulley decreases, the torque increases. This is due to the mechanical advantage provided by the pulley system. How It Works Larger Driven Pulley: If the driven pulley is larger than the driver pulley, it will turn more slowly. This results in increased torque at the output. Smaller Driven Pulley: Conversely, if the driven pulley is smaller, it will turn faster but produce less torque. Calculation of Torque The torque available at the driven pulley can be calculated using the following principles: Torque Multiplication: The torque at the driven pulley is multiplied by the ratio of the diameters of the pulleys. For example, if the driven pulley is twice the diameter of the driver pulley, the torque is effectively doubled, while the speed is halved. Practical Implications This principle is commonly used in various applications, such as: Automobiles: In low gear, the engine speed is high, but the wheels turn slowly, providing more torque for acceleration. Conveyor Systems: Slower speeds can help manage heavy loads without slipping. In summary, in a pulley reduction system, as speed decreases, torque increases, allowing for greater force to be applied at lower speeds. Sciencing aimsindustrial.com.au So, until someone comes up with a servo offering 7X more torque than current offerings and running at a minimum 50 to 100 rpm, torque increasing speed reducers are king.

I have no idea what the market is for saddle bags but pricing is a constant problem for the hobbyist turning pro. Price them to pay yourself a fair wage, make a profit on materials, cover your overhead and turn a profit for the business. I'm definitely interested in how this goes for you.

Remember the excesses of the 90's when the kiddies discovered all the things they could do could inflict on us with HTML? Don't do that ...

I did wonder ....

Pfaff says 134-35 needle system: https://www.pfaff-industrial.com/en/portfolio/sewing-machines/flat-bed-heavy-duty/pfaff1245 You'll then need to select a size to match your thread: https://tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html And then research the many different points available to decide what kind of look you want your stitches to have (scroll down about half way): https://www.techsew.com/us/blog/needle-buying-guide.html

Just what you'd expect, a paragraph with the heading tags I copied and another paragraph of me blathering about the tags. It might have to do with post count. Maybe the software doesn't let s user enter raw HTML until a certain threshold. I wonder if @Johanna knows off the top of her head? EDIT:I went through and deleted most of that back and forth, it was just clutter. I left enough that Johanna can see what we're talking about. It's ok here in Feedback and Suggestions.

Maybe there's a setting deep in your settings to choose a different editor. I'm out of ideas ...

When I looked earlier, Home Depot listed w22w wiss for around $32. I note that the extra w may be a typo or some cheaper version for Homedepot.

Top left corner in the box you're typing your reply into. I assumed you were typing up your reply in notepad or something and inserting your tags for bold, italics, header, etc and wanted to paste raw HTML.

Given the number of places that sell Wiss 22W scissors, I'd say there's definitely a market. I can get them to my door for $32 to $60. The question is whether you want to play in that market or can you build a better mouse trap and get a premium price for it. You've piqued my interest. But remember, you're dealing with a crowd for whom the hundred dollar servo motor seems to be the holy grail. Price will definitely be a factor.

Top left corner, click "Source" and paste away. I think that's what your asking for. Wouldn't your BOLD tags be in whatever you typed up?

This shows the difference in stitch length. But, style points for hitting that stitch hole in the middle twice!

I don't know if I'm seeing it right or if it's some kind of optical delusion, but the stitches on the bottoms of your circles look much longer than the lead in stitches at the top. None of the stitches really look taut to me, anyway. In these pictures at least, it doesn't look so much random as it seems to happen when the circle gets really tight. The holes look a little big, too. Are you using the right size needle? No answers, just an observation. Definitely looking forward to the solution.

Moved this to the sub-forum where they talk about chaps. Let's see if you can get some help.

I don't know what that's called exactly but it's not what people mean when they say "Clutch Motor". It accomplishes something similar I've got a couple of those and some clutch motors. A clutch motor has something akin to an automobile clutch built right into the end of the unit. Here's Alexander Dyer talking about clutch motors:

Turn Closed Captions on, go to settings and tell it to "Auto Translate" to whatever language you wish.