AlZilla

I'm probably going to feel like a dummy when I get the answer, but ... What is this thing for? Are shopping carts in the rest of the world locked up somehow?

I've used 2/3 up to 5/6. 2/3 is plenty.

NoYes, the top is supposed to be right side to wrong, but I think yours looks fine. The one thing I'd say is maybe hand stitch that back seam. I like the way it looks, even if I see mine has a gap now.

Yeah, interesting. I think that very top is supposed to be right sides together but what you did sidesteps a lot of the problems with machine sewing it. Unless I misread the patterns. Did you also combine the bottom stitch of the hat band with the bottom of the crown and brim? It's not remotely ugly. Nice work.

My first Industrial was a 111W153 that someone gifted me, table, clutch motor and all. I spent countless hours cleaning, freeing it up, taking it apart, putting it together and learning why I really didn't want a clutch motor for leather work. The lack of reverse doesn't really bother me. If I try to go back over more than about 2 stitches, it starts to look messy. I usually use the "stop, pull it back and sew over it again" method on bigger pieces. Smaller stuff, I start a stitch or two down the line, sew to the "beginning" and then turn it the "right" way. Or, leave long tails on one or both ends and tie it off like a saddle stitch. It was and still is a great learning tool for me. I keep it threaded up with 138 and it does a variety of things from jeans to 5/16" of leather. All that is to say, I agree. For the OP, I hope he gets into something along those lines. That Consew earlier in the thread looks like a great starting point. For $600, I'm assuming Canadian, it definitely looks like a great starting point.

when I was considering it, I thought to use the premarked punch holes to determine the exact center, front and back, of all the pieces. Then punch or awl them together, no different than working with fabric. Maybe hand sew the tops and machine the bottom. You've got one spot at the top where the top and crown pieces all meet. The other drawback to that would be matching threads top and bottom.

You should be able to with that cylinder arm.. I've made a few hats and been tempted to try at least part of it on my 111W. That pointy little front/crown area is going to be a bear, A couple of practice pieces would be nice. Commercial hat manufacturers do it by machine.

Here's a thread about the check spring, 5th post down has a video that might help.

I thought the 562s had reverse but I don't think I see it on this one. Also looks to be missing some pieces in the needle area. Neither is the end of the world.

Maybe you could find a tap and thread them.

Not sure i want a manual machine like the Boss. I was at Tandy and saw them using one and it didn't seem to be something I'd like. I can , however, be convinced otherwise because I really know nothing about the machines. Not exactly single arm machines, but saw an add for a Juki LU-562 walking foot machine for $875 CAD, which is about $605 USD. Not sure if that's a good deal or not. And for an additional $75, I can get a new Consew T-1919 Sewing Machine cost $950 CAD from Tandy. Not sur You, my friend, are going to buy a sewing machine. We've seen it time and again. They start talking like you are and the next thing, they're taking delivery on some machine the size of a living room sofa. Start saving your money, clear out a spot and be sure to post pictures when you get it. Ask how I know ...

I'm glad you're still around! To me, anything to give a visual back would be beneficial. Thanks for responding!

And of course now the video is private and the pics in the other thread are gone. Both threads should be deleted.

Since it appears the plan is to make a way to mount the disk (plate) and spin it to burnish the edges; why not mount it, spin it under power and hold the round file against it to make the groove? Unless I'm misunderstanding what's going on here.

The gunk might give way to saddle soap. I'd test it on an inconspicuous spot to be sure it won't discolor that white. The needle holes, if you find a cure, patent it and you'll be a billionaire. Maybe hand stitching back into the same holes with white thread would make them less obvious.

I like Brands. I also like that hides with brands often get a discount. I try to feature brands somewhere on items I make. I think they add depth and character. And also distract from my man-made flaws ...

I would do 2 layers with the inner layer having the grain side in. Like a lined holster or belt. But that's just me

Strength and function in that belt are coming from the leather. The suede is just for looks and/or comfort, as far as I can tell. So, 10mm total thickness without suede is going to be stronger than 10mm that included some suede in the mix. By "Sole Leather", I'm guessing they mean horse butt. 10mm thickness of horse butt would be a pretty strong piece of leather!

Since the 211G probably doesn't have any more presser foot clearance than my 111Ws, I'd think the 3/4 would be enough. I have a 3/4 servo and 3/8" clearance under the presser foot. 5/16" (20 oz) fits easily. With the (torque increasing) speed reducer, it will run slowly through veg tan. That said, I have a 111W set up with the same servo and NO speed reducer. It struggles sometimes. (EDIT: 20 ounces seems like a lot as I'm typing it for some reason - But I've measured the total clearance when I worked on the machine and I've stuffed it damn near full plenty of times. I'll verify it next time I sit down at it. If I've got something wrong, I'll post a follow up.)

Oh, I've been watching ... Kind of spendy, but it's a nice piece of equipment.

I think it's really a question of which tools you're finding lacking in your own work. For me, I'm finding my one, small inexpensive edge beveler lacking, so that's one thing I'm looking to upgrade. I also find myself cutting a number of straps, so I'm half heartedly wondering if I should look beyond the wooden strap cutter and my Jerry's Stripper.

Well, it does say 1.5 tons ...

I'm guessing you mean a Cobra class 4? If so, any of a number of people, including me, could give you the various dimensions of the pedestal stand. Mine isn't a Cobra, but I'd bet the stands are all close enough to the same. @dikman may have a point about the rigidity. The base is steel plate and the healthy sized post is welded to it. There must be a lot of torque on that lower weld. You could end up with something closer to a carriage for civil war era artillery ... But, if all you need is the measurements of the stand, I'd go measure mine for you.

Most impressive.

The safety clutch has to be tripped.