AlZilla

Here's a dissertation on seam strength: https://www.sailrite.com/How-to-Sew-Webbing-Loops Sailrite says "Stitches Per Inch x Breaking Strength x 1.5" = Seam Strength Per Inch I think your wife's handbag is going to hold up.

Plenty of handbags are made on domestic machines with V69 or less. Unless it's a bowling ball bag, she'll be fine.

Well, that is cool. The first one won't load for me but the second one does. In the OPs case, that one won't get deep enough to help him, but still very cool.

@PastorBob These are a slot and a Philips. Somewhere I have slot/Allen, too. When I get to a big computer I'll find the Amazon link, because that's where I actually ordered from.

Funny how often the search for answers lead right back here to leathercrafter, isn't it?

I'd lose the neatsfoot oil. Maybe just on the end. That stuff can really soften leather.

You only have a short window of time to edit. You can just add a new reply with any updates.

@anam I could be wrong, but I think you have access by default now. Scroll on down towards the bottom. If not, I'd imagine the BossLady will fix you up. Try this link: https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/44-adults-only-nsfw/

I think some of the problem is when the material thickness is such that the screw bottoms out before the material compresses significantly. A rubber washer between the flap and the holster may help in your case. Or the locktite, which I've never tried. In my case, I stopped using domed Chicago screws. I now use ones that have a slot on one side and an Allen socket on the other.

Probably should define where you'll ship to, unless you're up for international shipping!

3 phase is not in homes in the US, generally. I buy electric motors when I see them at yard sales and such and never see a 3 phase motor.

Here's a search on practical machinist about this very subject and it's a rabbit trail of complications with no clear answer. Single phase motors are harder than 3 phase and lose torque when you slow them down. I coughed up the money for a purpose designed servo. I wanted to spend my time sewing, not reinventing the wheel. https://www.practicalmachinist.com/search-entire-site/#gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=speed control single phase motor&gsc.sort= Years ago I wanted to slow down a drill press and used a tread mill motor to do it. I just mounted the entire control panel on the wall behind the press and used the speed control knob. It's working great to this day, it just lacks finesse.

I don't know what the market is like in your part of the world, but @ $200US for a working walking foot machine, i wouldn't be posting about it, I'd be loading it in my car.

Hi, Looks like a great machine. Forum Rules want you to mention something about shipping, or pickup. Hopefully it finds a good home.

I'm glad you jumped in with that. I've been trying to remember what it was that was bugging me about this thread. Nice job!

I like a pocket holster sporting a J Frame. I'd prefer a nice drop holster with a 1911 or Glock 21, but as a society we're just not quite there. The suspenders are the bugaboo. I recently became a convert to suspenders, which means tucked in shirt and no 12:00 Glock IWB. I'll endorse at least a basic training course because I think it'll change your mind on a couple of things. You could go over to smith-wessonforum.com and search around for some relevant threads. Those guys love to talk about this very subject. Since you asked for advice on a cc rig, I think the biggest pushback you'll get is on the idea of having a couple seconds to think about it. But, to each, their own. You might also find that topbreak, of which I am envious, is more valuable than you want to carry.

Here you go, the definitive guide on the entire Internet: Come back once you have a few in mind and ask for current recommendations.

Chuck nailed it, as usual. My biggest issue with hand stitching has been when I don't hold the stitching chisel exactly straight up and down. The side I punch from will be a nice straight line and the other side will wander the opposite of whatever way I leaned the stitching chisel. Some pictures would probably help.

Looks like you've been busy. I've tried that snaky looking pattern in the middle a few times. It seems simple enough but soon it looks like Otis the drunk took over. I should probably stop calling myself Otis. I definitely like the mystery braid looking work on the edges. Is it a stamp?

You've been working on this a long time. It's an enviable hat, for sure.

Forum rules require a price. You're probably outside the edit timeout but you can add it in a reply. Thanks

None of it looks genuine to my eye. The upper white part just looks like some kind of embossed, embroidered man made product to me. The lower part, I don't know, but look at the last pic, the boot on the left. Look towards the top (of the lower piece), the left side, where it curves up and then back towards center. That edge looks like it's de-laminating. The whole edge just doesn't look like a natural product to me. Where the strap ends are coming apart at the top just doesn't look right, either. Too frayed and thin. But then, pictures can be quite different than having something in hand. I hope I'm wrong.

If I recall, the size range for v138 is 19 to 22, so maybe a smaller needle. The process for turning a corner is stop at the corner with the presser foot all the way down raise the needle about 1/4" from bottom raise the presser foot turn the workpiece drop the presser foot keep going Actual experts will be along after they have their coffee.

I slipped this over to Leather Sewing Machines. You're more likely to get responses here. It was in the Marketplace/Services forum, which would be for offering services. The are some patcher experts here.

This is a great question. As a rookie leatherworker, edge bevelers is something I've also been struggling with. I'm looking forward to the answers.