AlZilla

Man, if the seller damaged it loading - take it back and get a refund. You bought a sewing machine, not a project. Good luck, whatever you decide.

You're getting to make the whole rig, and I'm jealous. I love all that western gear and have no need of it. I did make a couple of holsters that sit 4 or so inches below the belt. I like it a hell of a lot better than a regular belt holster. Just ask the end user what he wants for retention.

It seems like a welt would open it up if the lining has made it smaller. Its probably worth continuing just because you don't know. For me, 6-ish oz works for holsters. I know everyone likes a thicker leather because it wears better, but for me I like the lightness, it wet molds and holds shape. So why do I care if it wears? I'll make another.

I found this document (attached) , linked from which is freely available here: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/fguixlhek7y5jvvxd3d8j/AEP74cNQFHNPsDaZBdjdKDk/!CD 3.27/000 - General Notes/Replacing Leather?dl=0&rlkey=bzktg0ha776n5dy3mdax8nys4&subfolder_nav_tracking=1 replacing leather.pdf

Yes it does and I'll try it next time I handstitch. Sounds like one of small tweaks we learn along the way. Thanks for the tip off!

That is some enviable hand stitching. It can be so hard getting the stitches on BOTH sides to look great. I usually manage to wobble that pricking iron and my backsides wander. Most impressive work.

No idea of the market but why not bullet loops on one side and artwork on the other? You've covered it all.

I cant get it to play long enough to get a good look but the hub appears to wobble. So it's pretty much a bent shaft. It probably banged around in a pickup truck or other barbarous condition.

I like it. I think it almost all works on some level. The, I think trees, on the top seem awkward. The stamp on the very bottom/left is just out of place. I could see pieces of this embellishing some wallet, bag or something. How about some watered down dyes to create a color wash here and there?

Good of you to follow up and not leave this companies reputation in doubt.

Nice work! I was wondering how you were going to get the bottom cleats as perfect as they need to be.

Google should have sent you right back here for the needle/thread trick.

@Patrick1, good thinking, extending it to the left. I have one that extends to the pillar - definitely see the increased versatility with this design.

The screws around the perimeter, in the frame, are plenty enough to hold it up. the rest are icing on the cake. You're in the home stretch.

Yeah, but I think we both know you could have fit a clothing store INTO that gap ... I think you're kind of a perfectionist when it comes to woodwork. I know I am. Nice job repairing it.

Hmm. I wonder how that compares to this item from a local supplier, Glacier Wear. 1/4" vs 7/8", so a big difference there. But a quarter of the price per square foot. I can't imagine it making a difference for things like holster lining, but then I've never had a lined holster.

In your first post you asked for "economical". You got the answer for which you asked. Re-read the first line of his response. At the hobby level, I bet that thing would last 10 years. I think the point was, that style of sander gives you great control for what you said you wanted to do.

I figured it was something simple. Congratulations on getting it sorted out.

Well, you're in a pretty good position to check, I don't know about the Pfaff specifically, but it should be as easy as dropping the hook back in and rotating it until the needle comes a quarter inch off bottom dead center. The quarter inch is the part I'm not certain about on the Pfaff. Whatever the rise is, at that point, the tip of the hook should be directly even with the eye of the needle and damn near touching it. Timing is easier than it sounds at first.

Someone may have had a need for a longer throat and just modified a machine they had on hand rather than starting from scratch.

How about a Russian Trooper Hat? https://www.glacierwear.com/gray-fox-fur-russian-trooper-style-hat.html I grabbed one of the pics so if the link disappears, this will still have a picture.

This post has a manual supposedly for it: Looks like you made a great score.

This thread is about adjusting the walking feet. Uwe has a video posted and his stuff is usually pretty detailed. Maybe this will give you some food for thought until someone swoops in with the answer.

Can you run it with the door open?

Got it. I was picturing this thing laying flat on a table. Now I see where you're going. Also - special blades for plexi ... ?! Cool. I might revisit making plexiglass patterns.