AlZilla

I cant get it to play long enough to get a good look but the hub appears to wobble. So it's pretty much a bent shaft. It probably banged around in a pickup truck or other barbarous condition.

I like it. I think it almost all works on some level. The, I think trees, on the top seem awkward. The stamp on the very bottom/left is just out of place. I could see pieces of this embellishing some wallet, bag or something. How about some watered down dyes to create a color wash here and there?

Good of you to follow up and not leave this companies reputation in doubt.

Nice work! I was wondering how you were going to get the bottom cleats as perfect as they need to be.

Google should have sent you right back here for the needle/thread trick.

@Patrick1, good thinking, extending it to the left. I have one that extends to the pillar - definitely see the increased versatility with this design.

The screws around the perimeter, in the frame, are plenty enough to hold it up. the rest are icing on the cake. You're in the home stretch.

Yeah, but I think we both know you could have fit a clothing store INTO that gap ... I think you're kind of a perfectionist when it comes to woodwork. I know I am. Nice job repairing it.

Hmm. I wonder how that compares to this item from a local supplier, Glacier Wear. 1/4" vs 7/8", so a big difference there. But a quarter of the price per square foot. I can't imagine it making a difference for things like holster lining, but then I've never had a lined holster.

In your first post you asked for "economical". You got the answer for which you asked. Re-read the first line of his response. At the hobby level, I bet that thing would last 10 years. I think the point was, that style of sander gives you great control for what you said you wanted to do.

I figured it was something simple. Congratulations on getting it sorted out.

Well, you're in a pretty good position to check, I don't know about the Pfaff specifically, but it should be as easy as dropping the hook back in and rotating it until the needle comes a quarter inch off bottom dead center. The quarter inch is the part I'm not certain about on the Pfaff. Whatever the rise is, at that point, the tip of the hook should be directly even with the eye of the needle and damn near touching it. Timing is easier than it sounds at first.

Someone may have had a need for a longer throat and just modified a machine they had on hand rather than starting from scratch.

How about a Russian Trooper Hat? https://www.glacierwear.com/gray-fox-fur-russian-trooper-style-hat.html I grabbed one of the pics so if the link disappears, this will still have a picture.

This post has a manual supposedly for it: Looks like you made a great score.

This thread is about adjusting the walking feet. Uwe has a video posted and his stuff is usually pretty detailed. Maybe this will give you some food for thought until someone swoops in with the answer.

Can you run it with the door open?

Got it. I was picturing this thing laying flat on a table. Now I see where you're going. Also - special blades for plexi ... ?! Cool. I might revisit making plexiglass patterns.

Here's a little overview. Nothing about the attachment but a neat little video. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2_TnDQLBZ2U

Well, put it on Etsy, throw a lot of luxury language and pictures around it and see what happens. Alternatively, fish it past an established small shop already selling luxury items. Commit to making no more than 100 of this exclusive design and stamp a serial number on it.

BUSM (not BUSMC) Pilot. It took a little rabbit trailing to figure out what this one was. British United Shoe Machinery. Interesting old machine but I'm unlikely to ever run across one in America.

TLDR: Double check that you found all the oiling points. I was thinking about this and recalled when I first started playing with sewing machines. I had an old Class 15 Singer with a "tight spot" when I rolled it by hand and a small noise when running. Oil-wait-turn, oil-wait-turn. 'Wasn't getting any better. Back to the drawing board. Turned out that I had missed the internal part of the stitch regulator.

So, I'm going to commit heresy. I've had time to ponder this while spending about 8 hours hand stitching a project. Here I go ... I don't believe that the saddle stitch is any "stronger" than the lock stitch. We often see it said, but I just don't see any reason for it. Hear me out - any given stitch length is the same whether it's locked by machine, or a hand sewn saddle stitch. If the thread is the same, the strength is equal. Each stitch line has the same number of stitches and, thus the same length of thread. The bottom thread on a saddle stitch goes all the way to the other side. The bottom thread on the lock stitch goes half way, thens around and goes half way back. So, everything is equal. I can see the argument that if I break one side of a saddle stirch, I still have the 2nd thread running end to end. That's not "strength", it's durability. I'm willing to be wrong.

We'll often use a stick as a stethoscope when trying to isolate strange sounds on a piece of running equipment. Maybe a dowel rod to your ear and touch different areas of the machine? Possibly you could at least track it down to left/right/top/bottom ...

Kind of like the Sistine Chapel.