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There are a number of people on this forum that, when they speak about sewing machines, you listen like they're E. F. Hutton. Congrats on learning even more about your sewing machine.

I moved this over to "Sewing Leather", where it should get some attention.

@Charles_Bandolero, you have some interest. We need to get this one in compliance quickly, please.

Moved to Leather Sewing Machines since we don't have a "Rubber Sewing Machines" section ... Still a better shot at some help.

Well, that's certainly an improvement. I wish I had a clue why it's doing that. Maybe @Wizcrafts, @kgg or @Uwe will happen by and be able to explain it.

Hey. @NancyLou, would you upload this to Youtube and give us a link? I'm at 60 megs and counting. Most won't DL it and I'd guess BossLady might not want to buy all that bandwidth if they did... @Johanna EDIT: I gave up at 200 megs. I'm inclined to remove it unless Johanna wants to leave it up. See Post 4 for Youtube version. Thanks NancyLou!

I got a pig in a poke used servo motor with a parameter sheet that doesn't quite match up. I went through and made the best sheet I could based on playing with the knobs. P2 and P4 are the same. The printed sheet had far fewer entrys than the control box gives me. P10 to 012 seem to be for automatic sewing of some kind. It'll run and stop the the number of seconds specified by 11 and 12, repeatedly until you cut the power. Turn the switch on, it cycles until you turn it back off. No idea of the brand. If anybody knows or cares to speculate about the mystery parameters, I'm all ears. I have enough to make it work.

If it has a Singer flatbed industrial size base, any industrial sewing machine dealer can sell you a table and whatever else you need. If the base or your needs are out of the ordinary, we'll need more information. More information and a picture of the head should get you more information than you'll ever need. These guys love to type about sewing machines. I'll break this off the tail end of a 16 year old thread, Hopefully, you can fill in some blanks ...

Quite nice. Very skillful hand with those stamping tools, too.

You should list these over in The Marketplace. Please read and follow the rules so we don't end up chasing you for some scrap of information.

The executive summary at this point is that I believe the noise is in the bearings, but taking it apart and reassembling it quieted it down by more than half. My current theory is bearing damage and the case was torqued out of alignment by the beating it took in transit. I've taken it apart and examined it to the best of my ability and tools. I find nothing with excessive runout out or bent out of detectable shape. I took high res photos to look for cracks and found none. I've ordered bearings which arrive tomorrow. I need to get an appropriate puller as all mine are automotive type. The bearings are 15mm id, 9mm wide and 32mm od. 6002-rz is the part number and they're available for a few bucks each on Amazon. I'll upload pictures of the disassembly for the next hapless adventurer. Further updates when I get around to swapping the bearings.

Well, I for one love it. I have about 3 dozen domestics. The short answer is sewing machine oil and cotton swabs. The longer answer is at Quilting Board Forum, the 3rd post down. Especially the decals. They're not silvered like so many are, so be delicate and keep it away from direct sunlight. Also, don't carry it by that handle as it's not really meant for that. EDIT: My attitude is conservation, not restoration.

You should probably go read Wizcrafts experience posted above. Looks like he got 346 though it but only after a fashion. Might want to pick his brain directly with exactly what you want to do before spending a lot of time and money.

Hey @NancyLou, i moved you over to Leather Sewing Machines. I know it doesn't seem quite right since you're not sewing leather, but Help Wanted is for people wanting to find someone to do a job, essentially. I don't know why it required moderator approval. We'll keep an eye out for your next post and see what happens. The big screw you mention holds the opener that pulls the bobbin case back to allow the needle thread to pass around the bobbin. Clear as mud, I know. I don't think any of mine are all the way forward, so it could be out of adjustment. Also, the thread being under the lever that holds the bobbin in place isn't remotely correct. Let me go see if I can find one of Uwe's phenomenal videos about how to set that case opener. EDIT: 48 seconds from Alexander Dyer will do the trick, too:

Yeah, and the resistance is right there at the top as that flat spot comes across. Good for you being cautious, most people just force things. To me, it looks and sounds like normal operation. There's a video somewhere of Leather Machine Co breaking in new machines. They run them for several hours straight in an oil bath. Another poster here said he does something similar with his new machines.

Hi @Charles_Bandolero Per the Marketplace Rules we also need pictures and your shipping info or if it must be picked up and where. We'll appreciate prompt compliance. Good luck with your sale!

I can definitely see the advantage of laser engraving letters on leather instead of trying to keep stamped letters straight, uniform, etc. Usually laser engraved leather that I've seen is burned/blackened on the bottom and I just don't like the look. Is the fact that yours isn't blackened just advancing technology and/or technique? I could see a laser in my work room if I can avoid Cajun blackened cow hide

However, if I have 2 stitch lines of equal length, the same spi and the same strength of thread, they have the same breaking breaking strength. I can see the argument that the saddle stitch might be more durable in the face of 1 broken thread. But 2 seams of the same length, same thread, same SPI and length should be equally strong. I'm not campaigning against the saddle stitch. I just don't see the persistent argument that it's "stronger". I think it's the same.

Probably because that's what I could find in the sizes I wanted. I've never had any problems I've blamed on a poor quality needle. My complaint is why label them with confusing, made up designations?

This is how they're listing them. Seems a company like Organ would know better. On the other hand I suppose I can see lazy people calling them "135x17 leather points" and just expecting the great oracle to figure out what they mean.

I've always seen that 135x17 is the fabric and ,135x16 are the leather. Well, this is how the 135x16s I just bought are labeled. I'm just bellyaching ... I sent the first set back because I didn't see the 135x16. Oh well ...

I'm wondering if the minimum speed issue is to decrease heat. I've read that 300 is where heat dissipation is adequate (maybe for sustained operation?). Possibly 200 is banking on the user not staying at 200 for longer periods? I've also noticed that some of these cheaper motors have actual cooling fins on the outside of the body, where others just have undulations cast into them. My current motor with a 100 rpm minimum start speed has the cooling fins on the case. I'll have to start noticing if there's any correlation. Also, based on my recent disassembly of a cheap servo, the fan built into the end is just flat paddles running next to the closed end of the motor. No circulation at all. I think a small computer type fan blowing on the motor housing would really up the cooling game. It's on my to do list, even though with my low volume of sewing, I don't think heat is going to be an issue.

And maybe there's a distinction between brushed and brushless.

The top thread on a machine stitch saws back and forth something like 50 times. Remember that the tension arm way up at the top of the machine is letting it get pulled around the bobbin each rotation and then yanked back up. I was surprised when I first heard it. You are correct about the bobbin thread having an easy time of it. I'm glad this post finally got some traction.