AlZilla

I'm going to say the shop isn't very navigable. Not that I could do better but there's not much to see there. Then when I click on a product, it takes me to a product page but there's no product description at all. Maybe you're still filling in the blanks.

That's why I wondered about adapting these to sewing machines. 2hp vs 1/2 or 3/4. You could sew a new fender on your car.

@kgg, I'm sure you thought of this already but, why not just lag screw it to the floor? It's not on casters.

Snatch it up, quick!

@Constabulary, I never thought of stapling a V-belt. But, why not ... we do it all the time with leather belts. Especially living where parts aren't plentiful and easy to find, this is a great idea. Next time I see them on sale/clearance cheap, I'll stock up.

Ha! I brought my 441 head into the house and up 15 narrow, steep steps to my upstairs sewing space. One - step - at - a - time. I don't know how my heirs will get it back down ...

We're awaiting the cutout under the cylinder arm. I believe that's the plan.

Nice save! I wonder why the old ones failed like they did...

Silver solder will do the trick but it requires careful surface prep and high heat. It's been a long, long time but I did some fittings on a boiler I made.

I don't know anything about binding attachments, but I can't imagine it has anything to do with the birds nest problem. I'd suggest a new thread about that specific issue.

I hate to keep posting links to Glacier Wear, but here's some pretty affordable looking hair on calf hide: https://www.glacierwear.com/calf-hides.html Don't know if it'd be thick enough for that chair or not.

So, I know nothing about your machine, but I'm always curious to learn. So, I poked around and I think yours is close to a Rex 11-155R. Here's a google link that will return quite a few hits right back here at this site and may help: https://www.google.com/search?q=Rex+11-155r+site:leatherworker.net

Sometimes it's interesting just to do things for the sake of doing them.

Hey, if I want imperfection, I need look no further than my own workbench! It is fun to look back and see how you've improved. Speaking of which, I should revisit that PK380 holster...

Here's a simple controller for sewing machines. It has a potentiometer. I don't see why a domestic sewing machine foot controller couldn't be used in it's place. Maybe I need to work on this.

I use it to secure thread ends in place instead of melting them. I never have a lighter handy but there's always 20 little tubes of super glue around. I try to use it inconspicuously. I agree with the commenter above that it'd get pretty costly over a larger area. And probably hard to get spread around and joined before it set.

Well, congratulations. Mine came on the pedestal table and I disassembled it to take it up a flight of narrow, steep stairs. I thought about a regular table but I figured there was a reason nobody seemed to set these up in a sitting configuration. But ... dogs? Were you concerned they'd somehow knock it over?

I wouldn't mind the slow start but I'd prefer it to stop on a dime so I can land my needle exactly. That's all really a matter of the controller. Maybe one of the geniuses here will have a controller idea. You know ... I wonder if it'd run off the same controller most of the servos use. I need to get off my butt and go see how many wires it has. Edit: It'll take a little to get one dragged out and really see but I now know the switch box has a 2 lead connector and it's not used. A 4 lead and 6 lead appear to be connected back there, pending a closer look maybe this weekend.

A few years back I needed to slow my 80+ year old drill press down to mill out some AR lowers. Sparing you the details of why, I replaced the existing motor with a 1.5HP treadmill motor and just screwed the control panel from the treadmill to the wall next to my drill press. It works great. The only bugaboo is it starts and stops slow, because you really don't want your treadmill to go from 0 to 100 or 100 to zero in the blink of an eye. Here's an instructable where the guy has adapted these motors to all sorts of things, including a sewing machine. See Step 11. https://www.instructables.com/Use-a-Treadmill-DC-Drive-Motor-and-PWM-Speed-Contr/ Thoughts? Comments? Anyone done it?? Treadmills can be found for free or dirt cheap.

@toxo, I see what you're thinking. Holsters can go either way, flat on the back, or not, depending on the design. Usually when I make an IWB holster, I stitch it up and wet form it in a vacuum so it's fitted on both sides. Some designs definitely have a flat back.

Gotcha. I can't understand that either, then.

That's not what he's saying. In the 10th post down, OP says "Dye, Cut, Stitch, Mold, Finish. " He'd like to dye after stitching and molding but doesn't want to muck up his contrasting thread color.

Quite interesting, thank you! It's further away than I thought (150 miles) and priced at $250 so I don't think I'll be chasing it. I've been wanting a chainstitch machine but this probably isn't the one.

This is listed for sale near me and I can't figure out what it is. I suspect it's not worth me pursuing but who knows. It seems to have an internal motor and an oil pan so it's obviously meant to work hard. Just don't know what it is, but somebody here will. [it seems to lack a tension arm?] The seller says "Singer Sewing Machine commercial grade for Sails,Leather, seat cushions this is a work horse."

Well, especially with my 3.5" hand wheel, which I laid a ruler across and eyeballed. I thought 57 vs 52 was pretty close. Any of those pulleys could be slightly off exact claimed spec. These are really not precision parts we're playing with. I think with all the data in this thread, anybody could get a very close estimate with high confidence.