AlZilla

Funny that it was sewing before you moved it and now you have looping. Are you using the same thread, thread size, needle size, etc as when you tested it? Sewing the same material and thickness you tested?

Congratulations on the new machine! I'm not sure if you're saying the belt slips in the pulley, or if the pulley turns and nothing else does. A - If the belt is slipping - yep, you know. Tighten it. B - More likely, you're saying the latter. If that's the case, I don't know anything about that machine, but I'd be looking for a safety clutch somewhere that needs a good smacking. I'd agree, it has to be a simple thing. [EDIT] Hang on - You said "...pulley stops and the belt spins". Seems like the belt has to be loose, doesn't it? [EDIT AGAIN] Round 3 - will it hand wheel through full revolutions?? If not, I'd be looking for something binding up in the bobbin area. Maybe something shook loose during transport.

I bet the 277 has a clutch motor. If the 206 works for everything you're currently doing and you're right about lower pricing meaning you sell more product, then you'll have a revenue stream and options. Make the 206 pay for a cylinder arm.

I don't know anything about that particular machine but I do wonder if it includes a table/motor and if it's the model with reverse. Hopefully this one will work out for you!

As always, the detailed knowledge bombs are appreciated. Much to learn in this little hobby ...

A tangent, but related. Is #92 or #138 or whatever "size" a diameter or breaking strength? I had assumed "size" was a diameter.

I've been following this and appreciate your situation. I understand completely the cash out of pocket situation and not wanting to buy a used machine. I've been quiet because the sewing machine sages here have all the information you need and I'm a rank amateur. That said, I think you'll regret going with a flatbed over a cylinder arm. Maybe consider a Cowboy Outllaw. Manual and not as sexy as some of the other options, but it fits your budget and sews the size thread you need. Maybe those totes and clutches could be a little thin, you'd have to investigate.

That lever on the right side ought to be a clue. Doesn't tell ME anything, but maybe someone.

The Sewing Machine Sages will be along shortly with their incredible insight. Meanwhile, one rookie to another, if it was stitching right up until you rethreaded it with different thread, and now it's not, I'd say the problem lies with the thread or the threading. That's what changed. Did you change thread size and maybe throw the upper tension off? Also, I'd look closely at that thread path and make sure it's threaded exactly the way the seller wants it done. But since you have a Cobra, I'd call Leather Machine Co. They have a stellar reputation for customer support and I'd be surprised if they don't have it sorted in a few minutes over the phone.

Great, more books for me to find...

If you don't *need* that machine right away, that's a great plan. I acquired a 111W about 6 or 8 months ago that had been sitting for north of 10 years. I've been on and off tinkering, cleaning, freeing it up, replacing this and that and now I'm stitching 138 top and bottom quite nicely. And I've learned a lot along the way. Keep at it.

I think this is the holster to which the OP is referring: https://www.riverjunction.com/5859 It reminds me of so called "Pawn Shop Engraving". A very crude engraving committed about a hundred years ago upon otherwise perfectly good firearms. People today make a point of collecting these atrocities, while others see them as inexcusable (I'm in the latter camp). "Trench Art" is another matter - some guy with nothing but a nail and a holster doing the best he can, I'm totally on board with that. But, hey ... "art" is in the eye of the beerholder, so who am I to judge?

Wow! That's a VERY special order! I bet a person really cries when they break a $22 needle.

Not that I expect to ever have one of those machines, but I'm curious what got you to the 5mm stitch length?

Aha! This led me down the rabbit trail of Singer Class 7's and the ISMACS page for class 1 to 99. Well worth a persue and includes the Class 9-1. 18 feet long and sews 1.5" thick. I see a whole new vista of Singer sewing machine collecting for me. Thanks everyone for indulging my curiosity.

Just curious ... are there any machines that sew a thicker stack then the 441/clones? I haven't seen any references to needle systems bigger than the 794s, either.

OK, how about this ... does the machine have an automatic thread trimmer and it's activated by the cable when the presser foot is lifted?

Thanks, guys. I also think that on a straightline stitch with 2 layers of leather, I could leave enough tail threads and just tie it off between layers the same as a saddle stitch. Just depends on the job and aesthetic required. It'll be fun learning.

That, I think, is the key. I live in a very rural area and even though shoe manufacturing once thrived here, used industrial machines are few and far between. When they do appear, they seem to command much more than I'd want to pay. How long would you have to look in your area for a better deal? Forget the money and enjoy the new machine.

Well, after months of on and off tinkering with my 111W153 and a lot of reading this forum, I finally have my machine stitching nicely with 138, top and bottom. Ignore the chicken tracks on the sample pieces, that was something else I'm working on. This was basically the first sewing machine I ever worked on to any extent. It took getting it turning freely, putting it in a different table, re-timing the bottom shaft, replacing the hook, hours of cleaning, adjusting, re-adjusting, you name it. Now, I need to master locking the stitch without reverse. And I think it's going to get treated to a servo motor. The little run of sample stitches took just a few nanoseconds ... Thank you to all the sewing experts who contribute their knowledge, expertise and experience so generously to this forum. I've been reading threads that go back 10 years that are still like a masters thesis on these old machines.

I apparently also have too much time on my hands because I went and looked at the linked diagram, specifically page 7 and 8 (the list of part names), I see that the cable is obviously connected to the lifting mechanism but I don't understand why. Look at the full diagram, there's a handle on the back of the machine (part #22) that appears to operate the release mechanism directly and a couple of rods (parts 5 & 13) that appear to connect directly to the knee lifter from the release mechanism. I also notice that the mystery cable doesn't have a number, part number or name associated with it. And it doesn't show the lower end of the cable connected to anything. Very odd. (EDIT) I think we have the shoe on the wrong foot. Maybe operating the lift/release mechanism causes that cable to perform some other function.

I would not spend money on that site at the moment. It's surely compromised, see the image below. It's a spam link inserted by someone.

You know, my gut reaction was that it fit in the spec of the machine, so why not? @kgg and @TomE make very good points and I'm glad of the education.

Well, good luck with it. I found it about a year ago and it seems to be at either a major turning point or end-of-life. It has quite a lot of information and it would be bad for the sewing machine community if it were lost. Apparently, someone had a database of W&G (if I recall right) serial numbers that disappeared when he passed away. I still can't envision how a US based person could run a UK based organization, but I hope you get it stabilized.

Impressive work and the photography isn't too shabby, either! Thanks for sharing.