AlZilla

No telling, for me,anyway. Apparently a binding machine has a different feed type and maybe other things I don't know about. There is not a binder on your potential machine that I see. The binder on the linked machine is all those cylindrical things on the cylinder arm between the needle and the pillar. Evidently, the feed on a binding setup just goes back and forth without going up and down.

The G means it has a bigger hook and bobbin. Other than that, someone else will certainly chime in. EDIT: Here's a more modern 335 set up for binding. It says it'll handle up to 207 thread, so I like that. https://sunnysewingcenter.com/index.php/product/pfaff-335-single-needle-cylinder-arm-walking-foot-sewing-machine-for-binding/

@SeanRoss217 I wouldn't think not holding the button would have anything to do with it. Not holding the button doesn't do anything. Pushing it locks that bottom shaft to allow the stitch length to change. I don't know if something else would be seized and somebody took a pair of pliers to the knob. If you want to get @CowboyBob 's attention you need to do the trick of starting with the @ sign and picking his name from the drop down list.

I thought it looked like some strong arm tactics got involved. Thank you!

I've been watching this thread, curious about the answer myself. So, I wonder why the provided manual page looks like a solid rod as opposed to the OP's part that appears to have a slot in the center. It looked to me like someone had brute forced it and twisted the rod, causing that wasp waisted look. I thought maybe the distortion was keeping the original part from going back in.

I like the kind of detailed simplicity of that bag.

There are about 6.9 billion threads on here about servos and speed reducers. You can spend a couple days digesting them all or you can go here and order one of each. The belt you'll get at the local hardware store, it's a standard 3L belt.

Wow, very much worth the wait. The eagle just rocks! Would that also be correctly called a "Possiblles Bag"?

I sometimes tell people I could sew a fender on my car with the 441 clone. Maybe I'm not exaggerating!

There's a youtube video of Alexander Dyer using a Cobra class 26 and sewing canvas to plywood. I think it'll sew kydex.

I'm not Walter but the answer is ... it's an undershot wheel.

And maybe 5000 meters of it?

I missed this back when it was posted. The toe loop and skirt is my favorite design. The strap is exactly what it ought to be for that holster, though I admit to liking Marshall Will's design. He keeps the design and changes the functionality. A thumb snap on the inside is going to be difficult to close. I prefer a deeper drop so my arm doesn't have to bend much to grasp the gun. I made a couple for a Glock 21. Totally out of character for that weapon but carries very well. Very, very nice work!

Yeah, @dikman is right, there are tons of threads about speed reducers. This page https://tolindsewmach.com/motors.html has the 2 basic styles you see at the bottom of the page. You can also DIY it with parts from the hardware store, an axle of some kind, a couple of pulleys and pillow blocks. Only limited by your imagination. For me, the cost of the parts is high enough that I've just bought commercial ones.

Sorry, I just don't see any flaws. I really, really like the stamping.

Maybe I'm wrong, I assumed the stitch length lever also served as the reverse.

I'm surprised the big dogs haven't looked in here and given you chapter and verse on that thing. Maybe if I throw a few dog biscuits out here ... @kgg , @Uwe , @Wizcrafts , @CowboyBob ... One of these guys should know exactly what you have without looking at pictures on the internet and keep me from steering you wrong.

Yep, @DwightT beat me to it. I back stitch anyway but I like pulling the ends out between the layers, tying a double knot and dropping a little crazy glue in there.

The usual way - looking at pictures on the internet. The reverse lever seems to be a unique shape to the 1. I could be all the way out in left field.

It bears an uncanny resemblance to a Consew 206rb-1. This manual might be what you need: https://www.manualslib.com/download/1302047/Consew-206rb.html

Sewing in that gusset was a real tour de force of stitching prowess. I'm imagining the process of keeping it all aligned, punching and stitching not just on the curve but with a couple of hard turns AND the edges turned at a 90. If you make another one, some video of that magical feat would be great to watch. Interesting work, as usual.

Any kind of nut that will thread on there should do the trick. The OE part is probably a thumb screw but anything you can run on there, I'd expect to function fine. A washer between the spring and nut would be a good idea.

Very precise, clean work and it should give you years of service. I think the texture of that particular piece of leather is quite nice, too. Since you mentioned thread size and strength, I'll note that size for size, nylon or polyester thread has a higher tensile strength than cotton. The usual standard mentioned around here for service/duty gear is size 277 thread which has a breaking strength around 45 pounds. Since I doubt any perps are going to try wrestling your weapon from you, I think you'll be ok ... Do you glue your welt stack before you punch and sew it?