AlZilla

Very nice work, meticulous and clean.

Keep ranting, @Gabriel Rasa For 6 decades I've been thumbing my nose at environmentalists (remember global cooling that was going to usher in a new ice age?). Even I am buying into microplastics. Your polyester clothes even shed microplastics when you wash them. It's not breaking down any time soon. If this faux leather is plastic, I'd avoid it like plague.

I know zip about sandal making but I've always understood that shoemakers prefer horse butt for soles. Apparently it's very durable.

Yes, it is. Probably next to identical. Thank you!

Well, I dragged it home. Closer inspection of the brass plate and it says 22w156. Looks like it started life with a roller presser but now sports a regular double needle foot. One needle as been removed and the left drive gear for the bobbin backed off so it's been used as a single needle. Everything turns as it should so I'll restore it to double needle function. Patent dates are 1892 and 1897. Serial number location is still a mystery. The table top and speed reducer are home brewed. The reducer uses the pillow blocks on a shaft setup with 2 pulleys. I priced that setup out once and if I remember right I was looking at $40 or $50. I looked around for an operators manual to no avail yet. If someone has a PDF, I'd appreciate a copy. Thanks for the help getting it ID'd.

Thanks. I figured it was pretty much a textile machine, but it should be fun.

Cool. Thank you. I'm thinking I'll try to get down there this weekend. Looks like a fun machine.

I had to downsize that pic to get it small enough. When I blow up the original, it looks like a twin needle. I've asked for a closer look. If I'm reading ISMACS right, I think that makes it a class 22 of unknown revision. I may have to go get it. Anyone else think it's a 22?

Thanks, guys. Here's the operator side. The tag is apparently obliterated but it and the 2 pins above it look suspiciously like something Singer would have done. It does bear a strong resemblance to the W&W 12 but I think it's probably post buyout of W&W by Singer and based on their #12.

Can anyone id this old industrial machine? I have another picture from the operator side I'll upload later, much too big for now. https://maine.craigslist.org/atq/d/dresden-antique-sewing-machine/7674315127.html There is no kind of identifying anything on the machine. There's a brass tag on the column but not a thing remains to be read. Thanks

I never see anyone recommend Leather-N-Rich but it works fine for me. The hat in my profile pic has been rained on quite a few times and always dries like it never even happened. I've used the aforementioned Mink Oil with similar results but it doesn't have as bright a sheen. I did see a respected leather worker (Red Nichols, maybe?) criticize it once upon a time but can't remember exactly why.

I love that! Could we see the seam where you joined the cover together? I don't quite understand "The strap on top is to hold the bottom in the rolled up state."

Well, I'm practically stunned it wasn't a bearing. How about putting the belt onto the naked shaft and pulling some tension against the shaft as it rotates to isolate the noise to the motor or pulley/belt?

The backs of those snaps come in different lengths for different thicknesses. It appears that your back is too long for your project.

It doesn't make it with the belt off but does with the belt on. It's got to be a bearing. Take their 70 euros, replace the bearings and never buy another vevor product.

Well, he was. Now the nice witness protection people will be moving him ... again.

So, would something like a billfold suffer from this problem, too? What would be the best part of the hide to use for applications that are going to have 180 degree folds? Maybe something other than cow hide?

I've always assumed that when we say the strength is in the flesh side, it means abrasion/cut resistance, too. It looks like they were stretching the test straps to 1.25 times the original length. Too bad they didn't go until they broke.

The wide nylon web strap makes a nice bag look cheap.

Here's part 1 of 2 for going through a Consew 206, close enough for your Singer:

First things first, it's better than anything I've done and I like it. But, you did ask ... I think if the beveling around the figures (and really all the carving), were sharper, it would all pop more. Some of the guys and girls around here doing leaves and acorn themed stuff really get their stuff to pop. I think they almost undercut the carving. I admire the deft hand at symmetry in your stamping. Very nicely planned and executed. Does that buckle not require holes in the belt?

This pic is part of my desktop and what got me thinking about it. It's a wild bunch 1911 holster. I'm machine sewing but I could stagger the seams a bit.

So, the usual rule around here is to use 277 thread for duty holsters or anything that's going to see heavy use. The formula for seam strength for the lock stitch is: Stitches per inch x thread strength x 1.5 = seam strength. 277 thread has a breaking strength of 45 pounds. 138 is rated at 22 pounds. The question I have is, why couldn't I use 2 seams, closely spaced side by side on the outside edge of a piece using 138 thread? Purely an aesthetic question.

I use one of these things from Amazon to set domestic bobbins to around 25 grams of pull. Not fancy but it works.

Don't even know what a tally book is, but maybe I should start making them. Your stitching is getting steadily better.