AlZilla

I watched a High-tex video today of basically a longarm quilter, making upholstery panels. It looked to me like they were feeding the bottom thread from a cone at the back of the machine. It got me wondering if other industrial machines fed the bottom thread that way. I looked around and don't see any evidence of it. I could see it being an advantage, not having to mess around with winding bobbins, even on a domestic machine. Look towards the back of the machine at the 2 thread cones. The bottom thread on the workpiece is blue. "EDIT: So, obviously, this machine is using a standard bobbin setup. The question still remains, why couldn't the hook be fed from a full size spool located away from the bobbin/hook area?"

Just for reference, I have a 111w151 and 111w153 each with a 550 watt generic servo. The 53 has a speed reducer (torque multiplier), the 51 does not. The 53 easily punches through whatever leather I stuff under it at slow speed, while the 51 can struggle a bit. I don't know the specifics of your pfaff but I suspect most generic servos and a speed reducer should be adequate for your needs.

I see. Well, I learned something new. EDIT: Searching around trying to figure out this cosomoline/leather connection, I found a short discussion here about removing it from leather scabbards:

If you remake it with cosomoline between the layers, whats to prevent it happening again?

The strips at Maverick are pretty affordable. Looks like even a half hide is $170. Kinda pricey if I end up not liking it.

Horsebutt strips were recommended to me once upon a time. Apparently they're very stiff for thickness. I haven't found any to buy yet.

If that stitcher is anything close to functional, parting it out would be an epic tragedy and probably harder to do.

I don't know how you neat, organized guys get anything done at all. I mean, is the job really done, if you haven't devoted at least 20% of your time to finding the tools you needed? I think not ...

Ah, thank you. I didn't see the comments. Funny enough, he tagged them as "Kids Content" and YT won't let me save them to a watch list.

I know this is an ancient thread, but I think this is the guy you're talking about: https://www.youtube.com/@rewalston Maybe he restored them.

Don't get hung up needing all the name brand, hi dollar tools everyone seems to have. Get a basic tooling set and get to work. Looks like an Exacto knife and a straight edge are all you need for those dog leads, Pretty cool looking, actually.

Humph ... You guys have a lot more patience than me. But hopefully it works out. It does look like a fun machine to own.

Why do people list things for sale and then act like they're doing potential buys a favor even responding?

Does anyone have the actual bobbin tension spec for the 111W series machines? In my case, 111W153 and 111W151. AndyTube cites a spec for domestics of around 25 grams and apparently got it from an adjusters manual or somewhere official. I've been setting all domestics I work on at just under an ounce. I like repeatability. I have a 151 that's way too tight. I'm going to set it around an ounce and start from there, unless someone has the actual number. I looked in all the pdf manuals I have and don't see an actual number. Thanks!

I guess this means congratulations are in order. I'd love a Cowboy one armed bandit or a Tipmann. I can't remotely justify it, but I have this vision of a small mobile leather shop built into a little cargo trailer. No idea why, really. I guess the open road is beckoning ...

After struggling with lead free solders, I silver soldered dissimilar metals (copper and stainless) using Stay-Brite 8, liquid acid flux and Mapp Gas. That flow through problem is a tough one. How about filling it with epoxy?

Definitely like the elongated / asymmetrical quilting. I've done a few on a squared pattern. I'm certainly going to stretch it out next time. Nice work, good aesthetic.

Here are a bunch of manuals: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/85809-pfaff-345-service-manual-download/?do=findComment&comment=582713 This thread talks a little about timing a 335: Maybe it'll help. It also mentions needlebar height. I don't know if it could slip enough to go 180 degrees out. Maybe one of the big dogs will sniff this one out and have an easier answer for you.

For 300 bucks in working order, I'd be on it like white on rice. A cylinder arm might be more useful for bags, depending on the bag and construction method.

Stop reading, go buy it. You'll always get your money back if you decide you don't like it.

In fact, the NFO might resist the black dye. It looks fine. Highlights the snowflakes.

You need to find out what 45K subclass it is. https://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-list/classes-1-99.html Scroll down to the 45 section and even in they cylinder arm configuration there are a lot of variants. Some for heavy leather, some for bags, shoe vamps and things that make me question how much clearance there is under the presser foot. But it's really cute. EDIT: 45K1 says it has 1/2" presser foot clearance. Maybe they all do.

Hey, congrats on a quick resolution. Way too often people go straight to Defcon 1 instead of just calmly explaining their concern and letting the vendor respond.

Contact them, explain it just as you have here and ask if they have any ideas. They might be aware of an issue. Maybe you'll come back and report on a company that took great care of you.

I have an aluminum table and live in a colder climate. That metal table can be pretty uncomfortable.