AlZilla

I'll be following this, too. I thought about making shoes for a few reasons but the last itself is the challenge. Buying a last only to find it's not quite right for my foot would be a $50 or $60 mistake that I'm not willing to risk.

Off topic, but it reminds me of the time a lady was showing me her embroidery, of which she was rightly proud. It was all beautiful work. Then she got to the pillow she had been commissioned to make for a Dachshund breeder. An hour before the client was due to pick it up, I had to be the one to tell her she had misspelled "Dachshund" ...

Thank you, guys. I was concerned that the presser bar might be tied to some other function, but it's pretty straightforward. The problem I had was a ding on the presser bar was binding it up at about 1/2 lift. It came to me that way but some emery cloth solved the problem. I appreciate the help.

Chrome tan, or vegetable? Full grain, top grain, split grain? With that consistent texture, it must be embossed.

I'd like to remove the presser bar on my 111w151. I'll need to reinstall it but there is not a 151 manual to be found. 152 and up are all walking foot machines and the 211w151 just isn't the same (from looking at the manual compared to my real life machine). It looks like 2 screws and it'll pop out. My worry is getting the height correct on re-installation. Anyone know anything about it? Thanks

I don't have a design for you but I do have a caution. I've been working to reduce a 111w153 by putting a bigger hand wheel on it. One thing I've learned is that hardware store pulleys aren't really very well balanced. I'm probably just going to end up with a servo. I could probably balance those pulleys well enough by using the same process we used decades ago to "balance" motorcycle tires. But it's reached the point of more work than I care to put into it.

I found the post. Very helpful!

Yeah, I can't find a database with the "W" (that's what it is) prefix. First think I looked for, in fact.

Local to me is advertised a Singer 111W161, with the picture attached. Seller says it's 161 but I think it's 151. Am I right in thinking there was never a 161 made?

@PastorBob That's good for newbies like me to know. But it looks like the belt is natural inside and the holster is black. You must have used a natural hide for the belt and dyed it?

Examples below (ignore the tracks in the middle, that was a different machine and test), sewn with the stock clutch motor (1750 RPM) and very little speed reduction (2"motor pulley and stock hand wheel). For the most part, it's fine. One pic shows where I veered off and recovered. I don't think its going to take a giant reduction and I'll be able to control this thing. It's kind of a white-knuckle thrill ride at the moment ... So, I was hoping someone would chime in with "Yep, the hand wheel off XYZ machine is twice as big and fits fine".

I've thought about a speed reducer and/or a servo. I'm practicing and getting control of it with the full blast clutch motor. I stitched a practice strap, .120" thick x 1/2", one line down both sides, today. I had one spot where I wandered. This is strictly recreational for me, so I'd like to avoid throwing another couple/few hundred dollars at it. I did caliper the shaft and pulley bore. Right at a 1/2". The motor has a 2" pulley already. I've used that pulley calculator site many times. My 3" hand wheel pulley against my 2" motor pulley gives me a max of 1167 RPMs (1750 rpm motor), which I seem able to run at about 1/2 speed by feathering the clutch. With thinner leather or thick denim, I can feather a stitch or two at a time as-is. If I can get an 8" pulley on there instead of the roughly 3" one, I think it'll slow down enough to serve my current needs.

I'm working to slow down my 111w153 and wanting to add a larger hand wheel. Is there a go-to replacement? I can find all sorts of pulleys with a 1/2" center bore but I'm thinking I want some weight to it, like the original has. I think I can go to 8" at least and still clear the belt. Thanks!

You'll do no better than looking here: https://www.tolindsewmach.com/cowboy.html And here: https://leathermachineco.com/product/cobra-class-26/

Wetting the leather (veg tan) and letting it dry hardens it, usually. Hot water makes it even harder in my limited experiments.

@SUP I've got some 1911 grip blanks that claim to be coco bolo. I'll have to dig them out, but if they'd fit for you, I can mail you a couple on Monday. Just flat pieces of wood, no holes drilled or anything. PM me a mailing address, if interested. No cost and not worth messing with the small cost of postage - I've been on the receiving end of enough things like this.

There's a video shot at LMC showing them running in a bunch of class 4 heads prior to sale. They must not do the same for the class 26 because there's no way you could miss that noise. Obviously, they're going above and beyond to get this one resolved. 4:30 of this video: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KOLNoN1sVI8

I thought I read somewhere that fringe serves to help wick moisture away.

Al Bane has a video (which I can't recall exactly) where he slowly overshoots the corner but doesn't sink the needle. He stops and shortens the stitch with the length lever until the needle is where he wants it, then sinks it. Turn corner, return stitch length and continue sewing.

You know, I think I'd call Cowboy Bob. These bloody 135 needles are a mess. He knows what he's talking about AND he sells them.

Here's an older thread by rookie 206 users with similar problems. Maybe something in there will help: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/75812-consew-206rb-5-jam/

Try sewing cloth. Maybe jamming the wrong needle in there is causing the thread to stay when the tension arm is trying to pull it up, causing your looping. I get screwed up on needles. I have a machine that uses TYPE 16 needles and 2 that use the same 135x16 as your machine. Picking the right machine was just warm up for the real challenge - getting the right needle!

That should be the one. Here's a helpful chart: https://tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html

Funny that it was sewing before you moved it and now you have looping. Are you using the same thread, thread size, needle size, etc as when you tested it? Sewing the same material and thickness you tested?

Congratulations on the new machine! I'm not sure if you're saying the belt slips in the pulley, or if the pulley turns and nothing else does. A - If the belt is slipping - yep, you know. Tighten it. B - More likely, you're saying the latter. If that's the case, I don't know anything about that machine, but I'd be looking for a safety clutch somewhere that needs a good smacking. I'd agree, it has to be a simple thing. [EDIT] Hang on - You said "...pulley stops and the belt spins". Seems like the belt has to be loose, doesn't it? [EDIT AGAIN] Round 3 - will it hand wheel through full revolutions?? If not, I'd be looking for something binding up in the bobbin area. Maybe something shook loose during transport.