AlZilla

Welcome aboard. Based on your other posts, you're doing some nice work.

Wow. Very, very nicely done.

Yes, Bison Brown, not the other way around. Dyslexic fingers ...

I guess when you look at 2x24" and both sides, it is a pretty good amount of real estate. Maybe I'm just a cheapskate (yes, I am). I'd still like to find something close enough that I could get by the quart. The Bison Brown seems to be only available in the small size.

How is your coverage with it? I made 4 purse straps, a half inch by about 2 feet and ate up about a third of a bottle.

Yes. Someone here used it and I liked it. Normally, I don't like brown, but this one is nice.

I've tried to do that and just can't get it to turn out. I think one of the members here did this or something similar about the time I joined up.

I understand, thank you. When you're saying "the plate", I think what you're talking about is the feed dog. So you apparently removed the feed dog to check the hook timing - smart, I think, since it lets you isolate the problem. I learn a lot following these things and it sounds like you're well on the path to getting it fixed.

It looks like the manual kgg posted above is the cure. I'm curious how you know the timing is correct. If the needle doesn't descend, you can't compare the nook to needle eye position. Maybe you have a misunderstanding of how the timing works?

Looks like your sewing a single layer. I wonder if the bottom thread disappears when you sew 2 layers together?

Kind of a long shot here. Does anyone know of a close match to the Tandy Brown Bison Dye that I can buy in a quart or larger size? I ran across the color here, liked it and bought the 4oz size. It seems to take quite a bit to get coverage and it's way too much $$$ to buy in the small size. I can not find anything bigger than the 4 ouncer. Thanks.

Is the tension arm all the way up when you stop? Early on in my sewing, I'd have thread seemingly tangled like that and I was just not paying attention to the tension arm position.

Oh yeah, wouldn't THAT be a disaster. Talk about snatching defeat from the jaws of victory!

I'll be following this, too. I thought about making shoes for a few reasons but the last itself is the challenge. Buying a last only to find it's not quite right for my foot would be a $50 or $60 mistake that I'm not willing to risk.

Off topic, but it reminds me of the time a lady was showing me her embroidery, of which she was rightly proud. It was all beautiful work. Then she got to the pillow she had been commissioned to make for a Dachshund breeder. An hour before the client was due to pick it up, I had to be the one to tell her she had misspelled "Dachshund" ...

Thank you, guys. I was concerned that the presser bar might be tied to some other function, but it's pretty straightforward. The problem I had was a ding on the presser bar was binding it up at about 1/2 lift. It came to me that way but some emery cloth solved the problem. I appreciate the help.

Chrome tan, or vegetable? Full grain, top grain, split grain? With that consistent texture, it must be embossed.

I'd like to remove the presser bar on my 111w151. I'll need to reinstall it but there is not a 151 manual to be found. 152 and up are all walking foot machines and the 211w151 just isn't the same (from looking at the manual compared to my real life machine). It looks like 2 screws and it'll pop out. My worry is getting the height correct on re-installation. Anyone know anything about it? Thanks

I don't have a design for you but I do have a caution. I've been working to reduce a 111w153 by putting a bigger hand wheel on it. One thing I've learned is that hardware store pulleys aren't really very well balanced. I'm probably just going to end up with a servo. I could probably balance those pulleys well enough by using the same process we used decades ago to "balance" motorcycle tires. But it's reached the point of more work than I care to put into it.

I found the post. Very helpful!

Yeah, I can't find a database with the "W" (that's what it is) prefix. First think I looked for, in fact.

Local to me is advertised a Singer 111W161, with the picture attached. Seller says it's 161 but I think it's 151. Am I right in thinking there was never a 161 made?

@PastorBob That's good for newbies like me to know. But it looks like the belt is natural inside and the holster is black. You must have used a natural hide for the belt and dyed it?

Examples below (ignore the tracks in the middle, that was a different machine and test), sewn with the stock clutch motor (1750 RPM) and very little speed reduction (2"motor pulley and stock hand wheel). For the most part, it's fine. One pic shows where I veered off and recovered. I don't think its going to take a giant reduction and I'll be able to control this thing. It's kind of a white-knuckle thrill ride at the moment ... So, I was hoping someone would chime in with "Yep, the hand wheel off XYZ machine is twice as big and fits fine".

I've thought about a speed reducer and/or a servo. I'm practicing and getting control of it with the full blast clutch motor. I stitched a practice strap, .120" thick x 1/2", one line down both sides, today. I had one spot where I wandered. This is strictly recreational for me, so I'd like to avoid throwing another couple/few hundred dollars at it. I did caliper the shaft and pulley bore. Right at a 1/2". The motor has a 2" pulley already. I've used that pulley calculator site many times. My 3" hand wheel pulley against my 2" motor pulley gives me a max of 1167 RPMs (1750 rpm motor), which I seem able to run at about 1/2 speed by feathering the clutch. With thinner leather or thick denim, I can feather a stitch or two at a time as-is. If I can get an 8" pulley on there instead of the roughly 3" one, I think it'll slow down enough to serve my current needs.