AlZilla

In case anyone is curious, here's the patent. US1009749.pdf

@suzelle, you pulled me out of the fire! And now I need to find one of these machines! Here's a post with a pic: https://www.victoriansweatshop.com/post/show_single_post?pid=1326099274&postcount=9774&forum=501752 A little quick searching and it looks like National made these and may have badged them for other makers, but the search is on. Thanks for that great lead! EDIT: Here's a video showing how the bobbin works. She talks about it for about 3 minutes starting at 2:10. Close to the end of the video she's sewing with it. The tension arm certainly does have a long swing. Quite a fun looking machine.

What about the CB3200? It says it goes from V69 to v346. Seems like that would cover the whole range. Might need to get a narrow feed dog and throat plate for the smaller stuff.

Depending on which domestic machine you have, it might do some garment weight leather, or even pierce some heavier leather that you can then hand sew. This thread will confer a Master's Degree in Leather Sewing Machines:

It sure does say #14. Other places say #18, which correlates to OP saying he used v69. It seems like an interesting machine for it's intended purpose. They even promote it for "Bag Making", which it should handle beautifully - up to a point. It seems @Novalee's use case is just over the tipping point.

Well, you guys have been kind enough not to beat me up for my brain fart ... No idea why the part about looping around the entire bobbin escaped me. I've worked on enough of these (and explained the process to rookie sewists) that I knew better. Feeding the bottom thread from a full spool while keeping some kind of lock stitch will be the next great leap forward.

It's $150,000+ USD with free delivery to America. But's it's on sale from almost a half million! I ordered 2.

OK, I'm seeing the flaw in my thinking. It needs to get around the whole spool. Well, you guys saved me a trip to the patent office, anyway ... :

Isn't the loop all top thread, though? As far as I can tell, the bobbin thread just pays out as needed, no back and forth (or up and down), like the top thread. "EDIT: So, obviously, this machine is using a standard bobbin setup. The question still remains, why couldn't the hook be fed from a full size spool located away from the bobbin/hook area?"

I just don't know why the bobbin tension device would care where the bobbin thread itself came from - a little bobbin spool right next to it, or snaking in from a large cone a foot away, at the back of the machine.

@Constabulary yep, I do see the bobbin winder on top now. But, still ... It seems like feeding the bottom thread from a full spool would make more sense than winding and changing bobbins. Especially in a production environment.

I watched a High-tex video today of basically a longarm quilter, making upholstery panels. It looked to me like they were feeding the bottom thread from a cone at the back of the machine. It got me wondering if other industrial machines fed the bottom thread that way. I looked around and don't see any evidence of it. I could see it being an advantage, not having to mess around with winding bobbins, even on a domestic machine. Look towards the back of the machine at the 2 thread cones. The bottom thread on the workpiece is blue. "EDIT: So, obviously, this machine is using a standard bobbin setup. The question still remains, why couldn't the hook be fed from a full size spool located away from the bobbin/hook area?"

Just for reference, I have a 111w151 and 111w153 each with a 550 watt generic servo. The 53 has a speed reducer (torque multiplier), the 51 does not. The 53 easily punches through whatever leather I stuff under it at slow speed, while the 51 can struggle a bit. I don't know the specifics of your pfaff but I suspect most generic servos and a speed reducer should be adequate for your needs.

I see. Well, I learned something new. EDIT: Searching around trying to figure out this cosomoline/leather connection, I found a short discussion here about removing it from leather scabbards:

If you remake it with cosomoline between the layers, whats to prevent it happening again?

The strips at Maverick are pretty affordable. Looks like even a half hide is $170. Kinda pricey if I end up not liking it.

Horsebutt strips were recommended to me once upon a time. Apparently they're very stiff for thickness. I haven't found any to buy yet.

If that stitcher is anything close to functional, parting it out would be an epic tragedy and probably harder to do.

I don't know how you neat, organized guys get anything done at all. I mean, is the job really done, if you haven't devoted at least 20% of your time to finding the tools you needed? I think not ...

Ah, thank you. I didn't see the comments. Funny enough, he tagged them as "Kids Content" and YT won't let me save them to a watch list.

I know this is an ancient thread, but I think this is the guy you're talking about: https://www.youtube.com/@rewalston Maybe he restored them.

Don't get hung up needing all the name brand, hi dollar tools everyone seems to have. Get a basic tooling set and get to work. Looks like an Exacto knife and a straight edge are all you need for those dog leads, Pretty cool looking, actually.

Humph ... You guys have a lot more patience than me. But hopefully it works out. It does look like a fun machine to own.

Why do people list things for sale and then act like they're doing potential buys a favor even responding?

Does anyone have the actual bobbin tension spec for the 111W series machines? In my case, 111W153 and 111W151. AndyTube cites a spec for domestics of around 25 grams and apparently got it from an adjusters manual or somewhere official. I've been setting all domestics I work on at just under an ounce. I like repeatability. I have a 151 that's way too tight. I'm going to set it around an ounce and start from there, unless someone has the actual number. I looked in all the pdf manuals I have and don't see an actual number. Thanks!