AlZilla

So, I know nothing about your machine, but I'm always curious to learn. So, I poked around and I think yours is close to a Rex 11-155R. Here's a google link that will return quite a few hits right back here at this site and may help: https://www.google.com/search?q=Rex+11-155r+site:leatherworker.net

Sometimes it's interesting just to do things for the sake of doing them.

Hey, if I want imperfection, I need look no further than my own workbench! It is fun to look back and see how you've improved. Speaking of which, I should revisit that PK380 holster...

Here's a simple controller for sewing machines. It has a potentiometer. I don't see why a domestic sewing machine foot controller couldn't be used in it's place. Maybe I need to work on this.

I use it to secure thread ends in place instead of melting them. I never have a lighter handy but there's always 20 little tubes of super glue around. I try to use it inconspicuously. I agree with the commenter above that it'd get pretty costly over a larger area. And probably hard to get spread around and joined before it set.

Well, congratulations. Mine came on the pedestal table and I disassembled it to take it up a flight of narrow, steep stairs. I thought about a regular table but I figured there was a reason nobody seemed to set these up in a sitting configuration. But ... dogs? Were you concerned they'd somehow knock it over?

I wouldn't mind the slow start but I'd prefer it to stop on a dime so I can land my needle exactly. That's all really a matter of the controller. Maybe one of the geniuses here will have a controller idea. You know ... I wonder if it'd run off the same controller most of the servos use. I need to get off my butt and go see how many wires it has. Edit: It'll take a little to get one dragged out and really see but I now know the switch box has a 2 lead connector and it's not used. A 4 lead and 6 lead appear to be connected back there, pending a closer look maybe this weekend.

A few years back I needed to slow my 80+ year old drill press down to mill out some AR lowers. Sparing you the details of why, I replaced the existing motor with a 1.5HP treadmill motor and just screwed the control panel from the treadmill to the wall next to my drill press. It works great. The only bugaboo is it starts and stops slow, because you really don't want your treadmill to go from 0 to 100 or 100 to zero in the blink of an eye. Here's an instructable where the guy has adapted these motors to all sorts of things, including a sewing machine. See Step 11. https://www.instructables.com/Use-a-Treadmill-DC-Drive-Motor-and-PWM-Speed-Contr/ Thoughts? Comments? Anyone done it?? Treadmills can be found for free or dirt cheap.

@toxo, I see what you're thinking. Holsters can go either way, flat on the back, or not, depending on the design. Usually when I make an IWB holster, I stitch it up and wet form it in a vacuum so it's fitted on both sides. Some designs definitely have a flat back.

Gotcha. I can't understand that either, then.

That's not what he's saying. In the 10th post down, OP says "Dye, Cut, Stitch, Mold, Finish. " He'd like to dye after stitching and molding but doesn't want to muck up his contrasting thread color.

Quite interesting, thank you! It's further away than I thought (150 miles) and priced at $250 so I don't think I'll be chasing it. I've been wanting a chainstitch machine but this probably isn't the one.

This is listed for sale near me and I can't figure out what it is. I suspect it's not worth me pursuing but who knows. It seems to have an internal motor and an oil pan so it's obviously meant to work hard. Just don't know what it is, but somebody here will. [it seems to lack a tension arm?] The seller says "Singer Sewing Machine commercial grade for Sails,Leather, seat cushions this is a work horse."

Well, especially with my 3.5" hand wheel, which I laid a ruler across and eyeballed. I thought 57 vs 52 was pretty close. Any of those pulleys could be slightly off exact claimed spec. These are really not precision parts we're playing with. I think with all the data in this thread, anybody could get a very close estimate with high confidence.

I went to the pulley calculator and entered in my setup on the 2 set calculator. At 200 rpms it says I should have 57 rpms at the hand wheel. I counted 52, so close enough. Then I raised the motor speed to 5000 on the calculator and it says I should have 1429 rpms. I'd be pretty confident in 1400 or so top speed, based on that. There's a real world data point for you.

@Ana1234. if you have any level of mechanical expertise (as in you can change the oil in your car or hang a picture straight), swapping out a motor will be easy. As stated, the weight of that old clutch motor is probably the biggest issue. You'll have to locate where the speed reducer will sit and drill the holes. Belts are always my bane on something like this No matter how much I measure, I always seem to miss it by a half inch and make another trip to the store ...

Well, THAT was a lot of work for somebody. Thanks!

Reading back through here, it seems like you want very precise control of your stitches, as did I for leather work. I was in your rabbit hole not so long ago. Went to the servo with a small pulley. I wanted more reduction so I added this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/164574739671 I understand you're not in the US, but you should be able to find one like it. This is a 3:1 reducer - a 6" pulley to a 2". My handwheel pulley is about 3.5" and I counted 26 stitches in 30 seconds. My servo bottoms out at 200 RPMS, even though it's advertised as 0 - 5000. All this is on a Singer 111w153, so along the lines of what you're looking at. Has anyone mentioned https://www.blocklayer.com/pulley-belteng ? Now, there's a rabbit hole. Honestly, just do both at the same time. You have to remove the machine head and flip the table up twice if you do one and then the other.

For what it's worth, I have 2 machines with servos and speed reducers. I can land the needle anywhere I want, in any position. Never tried a positioner but I think I like it to stop where I stop it.

The tan wallet with that nice rolled under edge is by far nicer than the raw edge on the green one. Especially that inside corner where it's all scrunched up on the green one.

That is quite a document. I'm going to spend some quality time with it this week, for sure. Thank you.

That is some really nice looking work. It must be quite satisfying. I *think* I recall you saying you hand stitched. I'm curious how long it takes to make one of these and wondering if you cut the straps as needed, have a bunch of lengths precut or maybe just order lengths of strap. Also curious if you're working with pre dyed leather or dyeing it as needed. Lots of questions, I know ... Thanks

Well, I'm late to the party, but very nice work. The edge binding, the welt, all make a nice looking holster. Mostly, I haven't seen or heard of prototyping in foam sheet. I have got to try that out. I bet it's a much better stand in for leather than poster board. Oh, and the oak leaves are worthy of envy, too ...

I've gotten quite a few accessories from Chinese vendors, including presser feet for my 111w, and been generally satisfied. I think part of the key is the specific vendor. Most of my purchases have been through amazon or ebay and the seller has been either Cutex or CKPSMS. Yeah, I'd pay more for a good quality US manufacturer, but as you say it's usually not an option.

My favorite method for many things ...