nstarleather

Yes this is exactly how my machines work and it's great. I was assuming that OP doesn't have the ability to attach the die to the press...if he does, that totally changes the game. Another "quick and dirty" way to do it if you don't need super-precise stamping is just to "nest" the die into one that you've already stamped with the machine, tape the item down and then just put the next ones right on top aligned with the edges...it's less accurate but still close...works great with items like pouches that are going to be turned and the exact placement won't mater if it's off by 1mm or less.

Ok I’m going to assume you don’t have a way to attach the die to the press? If you do then I have two really easy ways to create a setup…because that’s what you do with a heat press. But if both your item and your die are mobile from the pressure you can do what I do when I use the clicker to emboss. I’ll give you an example using circles for simplicity: Lets say you have 4” round circle and you have to stamp a 2.5” circle in the center. First take some heavy card stock or even leather and cut the 4” circle. Then set a perfectly stamped coaster (a poster child)in the hole you just cut out. Next, cut into another piece of poster board a hole the length and width of the design you’re stamping…in our example a 2.50” circle. Slide the top piece with the smaller hole over the other piece where you’ve set the poster child piece until you see the design perfectly framed by the top piece. Hold the placement tight and tape or glue the two pieces together. Now you have a jig that will hold the leather in the bottom and allow you to perfectly seat the die on top. Put your item in the bottom die on top, press, rinse and repeat.

If it’s just speeding up getting placement right there are all sorts of jigs you can employ. Even with a heat press, we have a few different ways we make things to get placement right. Let me see your stamping setup and I’ll give you the idea.

I'd agree with a lot of people's comments here, that it comes across as too general. Even if people don't understand the details of a process, explaining those details really helps sell. I'd say things like "careful refinishing with "x" and "x" to restore and beautify... The best thing you could possibly do is before and after pictures. Showing what is, in essence looks like a brand new jacket doesn't highlight your skills and people may doubt that it's legit. I'd also change your verbiage to first person unless you're working for someone else as part of their business. If your business is mainly you, there's nothing wrong with saying, "I've worked restoring and refinishing leather for 'x' years and over that time I've developed the knowledge and skills to make leather goods look as good as new." Also, and please excuse me if I'm incorrect, it looks like you're a native Spanish speaker? if you want some help translating exactly what you're trying to say feel free to do it in Spanish and I can put it as an English speaker would...there are lots of things that although "technically correct" in terms of language, they aren't how people would actually say them. It happens to me with Spanish all the time with refranes or other sayings that my wife goes..."It's not wrong, but a native Spanish speaker wouldn't say it that way."

Shark looks a lot like that too texture-wise. Any leather can be split to be thin…knowing the approximate size might help too. google both bison, water Buffalo and shark then compare pictures.

Hard to say for sure but it looks a lot like “shrunken grain bison”: EDDDB742-420B-41F5-B56E-8A95485EA687.webp

Hi happy to share a bit if you'd like...my passion is for busting some of the common "leather myths" out there. I don't get much time to write but I do enjoy it. check out my blog for some of what I've done. https://nstarleather.wordpress.com/ If you want something for your site hit me up: nstarleather@shtc.net

I use bonded nylon size 69 or 138 for everything...there are heavier options. There are charts of the strength of thread...#69 is 11lb test meaning 22lb per stitch and at 10 stitches per inch you got 220lbs strength for each inch. If you back-tack then it's x3. Use #138 then double that. It starts getting ridiculous and in truth what will break the thread isn't "normal wear" but it getting cut because it catches something. I think the basic info is Poly is more UV resistant but nylon is better for abrasion...You could also put a rivet on each side at the top, though that might be overkill and effect the opening.

I'd say that the top two with no center seam on the bottom is a good start. You could also do the bottom separately if you wanted. If you use burr style rivets you can be more sure about the handle's durability. I think a "turned design" (first picture) protects the seams more. Otherwise, use good thread...like really good thread. Even with a machine you can stitch each seam twice and back-tack the ends for extra durability.

Just to set expectations: black Chromexcel has a natural back. Pricing is substantially more anywhere else it’s sold: Maverick has Second quality at about $6.15 a foot and OA is over $300 for a first quality side. Tannery Row is also at about $10 a foot.

Hi Folks normally these spools go for $20-$30 each but I got a deal so hit me up if you can use it. Tex 135 Size 138 Gov FF A&E milspec thread A-A-59826A bonded nylon in Deer. Asking $10 a spool on thread but down to $5 if someone wants 10 spools. Full Case of 24 spools for $100. Plus shipping

Hi Folks I have some Black CXL for sale asking $6 a foot plus shipping (ships from SC). 5-6oz First Quality. Full hides only. For some reason messaging not working for me here. Email at nstarleather@shtc.net

If you've got the tooled part covered and just want to protect the part that touches the seat, I'd just line the. back with a layer of a light-colored upholstery leather. In theory upholstery leather is not going to rub color at all since people got to sit on it all day. Leaving it natural veg is a little more worrisome because while it don't stain by itself, the "unfinished" nature of it will possibly cause issues with it absorbing dirt and then transferring. Just my 2 cents.

Neither… dude had some acid wash hides and made variations on my designs with them.

No lining bot u include a snap-in zipper bag.

Had a client leave me some of this funky stuff and little direction besides to make some cool stuff....How'd I do. Hair-on is pretty think so all of the parts where you see hair are lined.

I have a cylinder machine but I've been tempted to get a post machine because there are some designs that are much easier with a post machine.

Thanks!

No worries, edge finishing have never been a big thing for me but that’s cause I’m “bang for your buck” with my products. If I did the beveling , burnishing etc, I’d have to charge a lot more.

So I generally don’t do much edge finishing to keep the prices low…since these Red Wing folks have boots with mostly raw edges, it for with the look. Everything is in the Pfaff “45 family”, 545’s and 1245’s mostly. No just took the idea of a Dopp kit and played around with the size till I was happy. Did the overlap since one-piece would be nearly impossible.

A lot of my customers are big fans of Red Wing boots so they ask for specific colors... Two recent ones were Gold Russet Sequoia and Briar Oil Slick. The design uses 3 main pieces for the body and is basically a "big Dopp kit" with #10 YKK Zippers:

@Johanna I appreciate this decision and know it's for the best. I'll make an effort to post more now.

No worries Dave, shoot me an Email and we’ll figure it out: nstarleather@shtc.net

Be careful about mentioning letting advertisers know, I was banned for months because the site’s owner suspected me of contacting the advertiser who pulled out around that time. I still don’t have access to messaging, like everyone else on this site. Freedom of speech apparently only applies to trolling.