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I have discovered that, as @zuludog says, more than how expensive a beveler is, it is the sharpness that matters. Even more important is getting the angle correctly. Most videos use firm, thick leather which even a newbie can bevel but when we get down to projects which might use leather of different thicknesses and tempers, it is a a different matter. I keep scraps of everything that I make and try to bevel those well. If I cannot, I don't bother to bevel. Rather an unbeveled edge than a badly beveled one.

You could try dampening the leather with a spray bottle. That gives a more consistent casing. Also you could check to see how deep the water has penetrated. Look at the edge of the leather; you should get an idea. It should penetrate to about half the depth of the leather. More and it might become soggy, less and it will not take a good stamp.

Applying a thin layer of Neatsfoot oil onto leather before dyeing helps the dye spread better, in my opinion. We were just talking about block dyeing in another thread. Have you seen the Tandy video?

@Chipster99 it is exactly the same thing. I would look at the Springfield video but I found all the Springfield videos rather too long - this one in an hour and a half!. Like a movie! I never watch movies as I tend to fall asleep when watching them and the same happens here. Instructional videos longer than 30 minutes tend to do that. You are evidently fine with it, so if you could let me know the relevant time on the video where they actually show something of substance, I would love to look at those sections. However, Tandy has an excellent video which teaches block dyeing in detail, AND it takes less than 15 minutes! The main difference is that I use a big piece of crumpled cloth or large sponge, Tandy wraps a sponge in an old T-shirt. I am trying that the next time. It might make the process easier and give me more control., especially when dyeing sections like in the Tandy video. For the whole thing, like I did, it does not matter as much. @DieselTech you might want to check the Tandy video..

@NatesLeatherGds thank you.

Yep. That is how we humans control the weather. Another way is to get the car cleaned and waxed - it is sure to rain that day - did so even in bone dry Nevada!

That is what happened here too.

@fredk That's a good report for a single location. For you too, mineral oil (baby oil) has stiffened quite bit. I have used Vaseline on several items that I made for home use - they get wet off and on but do not seem to absorb any. So for leather that will get wet for short periods, Vaseline is evidently a good water repellent. It has not rained here recently, unfortunately. so cannot do the next test just yet. Keeping watch on the weather. As soon as rain I predicted I will start the Vaseline test. I plan to check after 1 hour in the rain, 2 hours and so on for a few hours, to see what happens. I will be very specific about the thickness of leather used, maybe use different thicknesses. Shopping trip tomorrow for that, methinks.

LOL. Same here.

@DieselTech Thank you. I believe it is. I discovered this by accident one day when learning dyeing and then learnt that it is actually a thing. By accident it was easy; to do it deliberately, not so at all. You need such a light hand to dye the surface and leave out the stamped depressions. I tried painting a resist carefully into the stamped depressions but that requires a careful hand for the outlines. Else it looks odd. Now, I just stamp deep, mop the dye sponge until it is nearly dry and then dye very lightly, in layers.

Been practicing for a while now. This was first dyed but then I decided I did not like the color and antiqued it, brown I think. (Label is hidden under stains). The stick with it is plain undyed bamboo.

I make leather cozies for my fruit fly traps - just plastic containers with diluted vinegar, which frequently get wet. To keep waterproof, I apply several layers of diluted resolene, then wax and then petroleum jelly, buffing each thoroughly. It works well and no excessive shine either.

@fredk I'll try both techniques. Up to now, I have been making a light line and then a firmer one. Maybe go a little slow as well so that I stop in time when I come across a hard section of leather. @TomE, I have bought a spirit lamp although not had the courage to use it for anything - scared I might scorch the leather. But I can try now, since it is only practice pieces. My fixed size creasers and beaders are fine, all old ones. The adjustable one is new and makes a thick line. Maybe I will thin it a bit. Currently, it is only of use to make a stitching crease. I want to add creases to everything too - it looks polished.

Exactly. Working from kits and ready made patterns is fine but when one wants to really work with leather from start to finish, there is always more and more to learn. Reading leather I have no idea how to do. I have a relative idea - weight, temper, type of tanning.. the usual broad definitions. But how to actually identify a good piece, I still know very little. People here together have thousands of years of experience. and very luckily for noobs like me, most all of you are ready to share.

I use both types of edge creasers although I prefer the fixed size ones. The adjustable one makes rather thick lines. I have several sizes of creasers and a couple of double creasers as well. I do have a #1 which makes a line close to the edge but that works fine. I agree that a light line first followed by a firmer one gives the best results. Trial and error taught me that. I only lightly case the leather. If the leather gets too wet, it smushes on the edges and the lines go wonky. I do not heat the creaser. The leather edge is not beveled. Without beveling, I get a firmer edge along which to move the creaser. I am still practicing at this point and do use leather that appears as level in temper as possible - medium firm. My first practice piece, the lines went wonky because I was still learning but that leather was fine. The 2nd piece had the lump. I could not draw a straight line in that section even with a tickler and steel ruler. I also use beaders - as long as the leather is good, these work very well. I really like that look. I make fruit fly trap coozies from these pieces. So the pieces are cut into neat rectangles which are perfect to practice on. I will look for good harness leather to work on and do as @chuck123wapati says about smoothening the leather as well.

Yes, I gathered it is a feature of leather - after all, it comes from animals which had active lives and I bet humans have such lumps and bumps a well. I can buy the leather in person and do so when I can. But I find that I can't feel such lumps. They only get in the way when tooling. When it's patterns, you can usually accommodate them. With straight lines, that is not possible. Maybe the next time I come across such a bump, I will stop tooling and see how it feels to the touch so i get some idea. Anyway, for all my questions, I usually look elsewhere before I ask questions here. I have that book - good one - but still, some questions happen, when one is an absolute noob. There are so many informational threads here, most of the time, even questions are not needed. This issue though is rarely mentioned. When @Dwight did, I was delighted to know that I was not the only one facing it because somehow I was doing something wrong. Thank you for your guidance.

You mean case it, use a slicker to smooth out all the leather so any lumps get smoothened out first and then tool? Good idea! I will try that. Thank you.

I recently started using edge creasers and beaders and love the results. However, I face a problem with sections in leather that seem bumpy (or lumpy) and cause the tools to swerve no matter how hard I try not to. Sometimes they get squishier than other sections of the leather as well. SInce beaders and creases make lines, the swerving is particularly noticeable. I am using economy grade leathers right now, for practice and to learn. Do such lumps occur in the higher grades of leather as well? Is there a way to get rid of them before I start tooling? How do serious artists manage with such sections of leather if it occurs everywhere? I know @Dwight I think, has spoken about this problem in another thread. How does everyone manage this? Especially people who do book binding, where such tools seem to be routinely used?

I just got a rolling knife set - from Amazon Vine. Only for kitchen knives. The set has 4 replaceable sharpening stones 360 and 600 grit diamond stones, a 1000 grit whetstone of unknown type and a 3000 grit ceramic. It allows 4 angles - 15, 18, 20, 25. They even give the type of knives which require specific angles. Tried it on a couple of kitchen knives and it sharpens them well. A little stropping after and they are sharp enough for soft tomatoes. It is actually easy and comfortable to use. Made of aluminium. Comfortable grip and large enough to hold firmly. This set, at least, works well.

I'll look at the sites you have sent me @DieselTech and @Wepster and get an idea of what to do, how to measure, and then get back. That will be in a couple of days as I have time to do all this only during the week, when I can concentrate. I'll get back on the size of the ferrules once I see exactly how to measure it. Same with the broach making. The Broach is sold out in both places you mentioned. I will look if it is available elsewhere.

@DieselTech, i doubt I will be able to fix that knife myself. The others only have their handles come loose. The Rose knife, I will look for a bladesmith. Anyway, I am not touching any of them until I have the proper tools, except for cleaning the tangs and getting out as much rust as I can. Could you tell me where I can get the brass ferrules? I see many sellers but don't know which will be good. The thing is, everywhere I look, there are so many tools needed (that t I don't have), that I am wondering whether it makes more sense to just find a good bladesmith. I will continue to watch videos showing how to replace handles and then decide.

Thank you @Wepster. I will look for a bladesmith in my locality. For the Rose knife, I will need someone to repair the handle. The others, I might be able to do, once I get a handle broach. They are unfortunately sold out right now but as soon as it's available from somewhere or the other I'll work on those handles. Meanwhile, I can work to get the rust out and the tangs really clean.

I'm so glad to hear that! I'll look for someone here.

The thing is, the broken handle on the Rose knife is supposed to be original. So I would have liked to save it. Do you think it is possible? Would a bladesmith be able to do it if an amateur like me cannot? The other two handles have just come off and with the broach, I should be able to dig out whatever gunk there is inside and stick the tang back in, hopefully.

Okay. I will get a knife handle broach. It is to cut the slot in the wood to fit the tang, am I right? I will probably need to use one multiple times since I have several round knives, all old ones. One or the other is sure to lose its handle. I doubt I will be able to repair all the ferrules. I will clean them thoroughly and decide but at least one needs replacement. .