deboardp

You can check out my thread on making a 4-sole custom sandal. It's a monastic sandal, designed for wearing with socks (no flesh showing). I don't recommend this particular monastic design because without a strap between the two big toes, it doesn't keep the foot centered on the sandal. However the 4-sole design is excellent. I used 8 ounce shoulder for the top and I recommend 6.5 ounce veg tan for mid and bottom soles, the three of them glues and stitched. I remove sections of the midsole to create open channels for straps that cross over. I glue (and nail if necessary) gum rubber bottom, 1/8" thick (I forget the iron rating). There are many designs for custom sandals that keep the foot centered on the sandal. I had about a dozen designs when I made sandals in my shop back in the '70's. I had forgotten that without a strap between those toes, the foot wanders on the topsole. (I had a stroke that wiped out my memory functions.)

I have a LM 26 and have the same problem. I'm not doing leather work any longer, but if I get back to doing some, I will refer to this thread. I know that LM doesn't know how to deal with the clanging noise, and they suggested things that I think made it worse. Of course it's a timing issue. Their head tech had me try things sort of like mechanics do, change a part or a setting, see if that fixes it. It's better to know how to troubleshoot rather than do that. Figure out the problem, and then fix it. These adjustments only make things worse if we're guessing. We need to be smarter than that. Your videos are great quality!

UPDATE, SEP 1, 2024 I started my sandal shop almost two years ago, because I was homeless at the time, not having enough income to afford an apartment. I was staying in a spare room at the local monastery, thanks to the gracious abbott. I spent $10,000 using my credit cards and a personal unsecured loan, to buy all the tools and materials I would need to make custom monastic sandals. I did manage to make a pair, and after wearing them, I discovered that my foot would not stay centered on them because the front strap is wider on one side than the other, so the foot gets pushed over. I experimented with changing the angle of the straps exiting the topsole, by using long clinching nails, and I was not happy with the result. It was ugly and uncomfortable. The shoe had to be worn with tight straps, which was painful. I had gotten a HUD-VASH voucher (housing voucher for homeless veterans) and was in an apartment by the time I started making this pair of sandals, but I didn't have enough income to cover all my living expenses. I was using my available credit to cover the shortfall, getting cash advances from my credit cards. I had about 4 months of available credit left, and when that was used up, I would be facing homelessness again, at age 77! Then something amazing happened. The VA approved my claim for disability compensation under The Pact Act, which states, basically, that if a soldier, sailor, airman served in a location where Agent Orange was used, and subsequently developed diseases associated with exposure to the herbicide, then it was presumed that there had been exposure. I had submitted three claims prior to that act being passed and had been rejected each time due to lack of evidence that I had been exposed. So suddenly I found that I had enough to live and pay my living expenses. Being disabled, weakened, by my diseases, having lost much of my cognition and memory functions, and being old, I really don't want to do any kind of work any more. I simply didn't want to have to live in the woods, because in my condition I thought it would be fatal, but now I just want to take care of myself, exercise as much as I can, eat healthy, go to Church services, try to be an actual Christian person. As an aside, if anyone doesn't know how the Pact Act came to be, Jon Stewart, the comedian, went to Congress and yelled at them for putting up obstacles to deprive the men and women who put their lives on the line for their country the care they needed for being disabled by this herbicide. He kept yelling, "Shame on you!" He was really angry. He scolded Congress. They wrote and immediately passed the Pact Act, for which I thank God, because I had prayed to St. Xenia that she intercede with Him to do something about the government. So moving the USG is a miracle, as we all know. Anyway, I'm going to sell the shop. Exercising, eating, washing dishes, going to Church, is about all I can handle. Making sandals, or bags, or belts, is a younger man's work. It needs someone with energy. I know someone who needs an income and a friend is reaching out to him about buying it I did have interest in making regular custom sandals, with strap(s) between the toes. After I made this first pair and realized it couldn't work, I remembered that I had tried making sandals without a strap between the toes, and it didn't work. Not ever. I wish my memory worked! So I was excited to think about that, but I'm just worn out, sick, tired (oh, sick and tired! Where have I heard THAT??) I'll teach this fellow how to make sandals if he wants to buy the shop. I'm really happy to have an income now. I moved to a better apartment, bought a car. and can donate to the Church now. Most of my exercise is simply playing pickleball, which is lots of fun. I'm adding stationary bike work to improve the circulation in my legs, which is compromised due to my heart failure, and I'm trying to work in light free weights for toning and range of motion, but PB seems to take most of my time. Patrick DeBoard PS If I don't find a buyer, I may make something. Perhaps a pair of sandals with a strap between the first two toes. I had about a dozen designs back in the day, when I was making almost 50 pair a week (with an intern). But they were a simple 2-sole soak and form design, not the 4-sole consummate sandal I just made. PPS A monastic sandal has to be worn with socks, thus the no strap between the toes requirement. No flesh can be shown. Strict rules at a monastery. PPPS For those who want to buy an item or two, I won't do it. It's the whole shop or nothing.

I was referring to some monks I know who can't find sandals that fit them. I'm not sure if these sandals I'm making, with this design, will help them. I think they will be painful to break in. Without a strap between the two big toes, the straps have to be snug to keep the foot centered. One person had surgery on the bones of his foot to straighten his foot, and my sandals will be too hard for him to break in. The only positive is that the sole and straps will be in the right places, but it seems break in will be painful and arduous. I used to build or insert arches, but now I believe that our feet are well designed for walking and the soles are for protecting them from stones we might step on. We actually have arches in our feet so I don't presume to think I can build arches. Our natural arches are self supporting. If we have flat feet, using shoes with built in arches will hurt our feet. So I make my sandals totally flat. The heel I use is only 1/8" thicker than the 3/4 sole, which is 1/8" thick. I'm considering a softer and thinner leather - a 6.5 ounce luxury vegetable tan side - for the straps. Because my straps are wider, it might be strong enough to resist stretching.

I had forgotten about the problem with open toe sandals, but taking my first walk in them brought it back to me. Without a strap between the big toe and the second toe, there's nothing to keep the front of the foot centered on the sandal except that big front strap, which has to be tight during break in, and maybe even after that. All 3 straps, actually, have to be tight. I could only fiddle with them for 30 minutes. They hurt! The straps are only 8 ounces, but the front one varies from 1-7/8" over the big knuckle and 1" even over the small knuckle. I reduce that strap to 13/16" where it comes out of the sole behind the big knuckle. It's a nice fit into the 3/4" nickel Conway buckle. I always used Conway 54 years ago, but they were 1/2". When I saw how my straps stretched out and were only 3/8" after 20 years, I decided next time I'd go 3/4". However I did buy some 1/2", some 5/8", and even some 1", in case a lumberjack needs sandals. It's gonna take some doing for these shoes to break in, and there's going to be some toughening up of tender feet involved. I'm surprised that after stuffing about 3 ounces of an 8 oz can of Colorado Leather Balm and then a bunch of cod liver oil the straps are not softer. I thought of wetting them a little next time but am concerned about stretching. Anybody want to weigh in on how to help the break- in? Feel free!

These socks have a Grey front section so it's hard to see the sandals' front edge.

Finished them, took them for a walk... pictures first and then a brief introduction to the problem with an open toe design.

Thank you, guys. I'm also pleased with how they look so far. The black dye really helps make them look rich. I'm gluing the rubber bottom on. The glue is drying as I type this. I will probably finish them today and will take multiple pictures from all perspectives.

It's for quick raising and lowering of the shaft. Otherwise you'd have to turn the handle round and round.

Next time I dye a pair I'm going to make a sandal-sized tub for the dye and soak them in it. I had to repeat dying them TWICE. I'm very happy overall with the way they look. I can see leather grain. Here's a Louc after first dye operation. I can see red.

My stitching is awful. Haha

Hahaha I discovered that I lost my desperate motivation to get sales of sandals, you know, because I now have sufficient income to have a home, and therefore did nothing the last two months. But I finally decided to finish this pair for me. The last five days I have 1) stitched the ankle posts; 2) dyed the leather; 3) hand stuffed the leather with the warm water and hand massage with grease method; 4) let it dry, then rubbed the grease film off. Here's a picture. Tasks that remain are: 1) glue on heel and 3/4 sole; 2) apply and polish with cod liver oil; 3) final fitting/ buckle installation. I don't know why the black thread looks white. Maybe it's the grease. What is the future of my sandal shop? I know some monks who have foot problems and I would like to make them sandals. I might make it known to church members that they can buy a monk a pair if they want.

I have several sides of veg tan strap leather, 7/8 oz. The best one, a utility side, has no flaws, came from Tandy. The worst one, a hundred twenty bucks more expensive, has multiple holes through it, a craftsman side. I use it for soles, the Tandy for straps. My memory is awful. The Tandy utility side was on sale, $65 a side. Mine is perfect. The HO side I have is slightly larger and cost $260, with what appears to be spear holes here and there. It does have a firm hand, though. Both sides were selected by the vendor and shipped sight unseen.

I used them in the 1970's and again the past two years. Half of everything I buy is from Tandy. They're reliable, and the products are better than okay. One of their stores was bought by the manager and is now Springfield Leather Company. I buy stuff from them, too.

I can't backstitch with my Cobra Class 26 - it goes sideways on me. 3 layers of veg tan, but I can spin the work 180 with the needle down and then do 2-3 stitches.

Slow. The VA granted my claim for disability compensation after 15 years of homelessness, and now I will not be homeless again. So the frantic need to make and sell sandals is gone. I'm doing more for the Church and less for the sandal shop. But I'm getting closer to completing the first pair. I'll stitch the heel loops next, then glue the heel and gum rubber half sole on, burnish the sandal edges, grease her up, and put the buckle on. Probably burnish before gluing rubber on. I hope they fit!

thank you! You've opened up a new world for me, the world of rubber soles. I'll work in a visit to a cobbler soon. apparently there's a hundred of them within an hour of my apartment. I studied sandals 50 years ago, and then again this past year and a half, and I haven't changed my mind about sandals. Both times, I came up with the same conclusions, which are that 1) sandals made by a size pattern ignore the specific skeletal architecture of the individual, instead opting for a one pattern fits all. Usually this pattern of straps results in the toes being pinched together, and general discomfort if not pain, that does not stop after the sandal is broken in. Also almost all straps made in a commercial sandal are non-adjustable. If the straps are made of leather, the leather will stretch out and the sandal will fit poorly. Because of this, I resolved 50 years ago, and maintain this resolve today, to only make custom sandals. The major bones have to be marked on the foot tracing, which are the big ball, the little ball, and both inner and outer ankle bones. The straps need to encompass both balls in front, and be below both ankle bones in the back. That's for my design, which has nothing between the toes and is created so that the wearer can wear socks. I also resolved that every strap has to be 100% adjustable by the wearer, to either loosen or tighten each strap. When I look at commercial sandals, I usually shudder at the thought of buying and wearing such a cheap, ill-fitting piece of junk. It's a little like being robbed, actually. I looked at the link you sent, to the Greek sandals. Sheesh, what a waste of effort to build those things! If there wasn't the Mediterranean Sea right there, and the sun shining, nobody would buy those things. And the prices! Wow. So high! I won't change my design until I've worn this first pair and get some real feedback to my feet. While wearing them I'll make the second pair with thinner mid- and bottom-soles. Hopefully I'll find a microcell that will satisfy me. I'll try what I have on hand first, despite not knowing exactly what it is, except that it's pure gum rubber. I'll use the heels I have, too, just to see if they work. the cork is a good idea. I'll think about if I can incorporate it. I want my sandals to last a couple or three decades, and the cork might not be appropriate.

It is thick. but not as thick as what I made 50 years ago. I don't remember exactly what I bought, but I know the bottom was bend, and it was thicker than the top, which I have no idea what it might have been. A snatch-out-of-the-air-guess would be 12 ounce shoulder for the top and 14 ounce bend for the bottom, and 7/8 ounce horse hide for the straps. 12 and 14 is 26 ounces total. This current sandal is 10 ounce shoulder and 15.5 ounces of veg tan for straps and lower soles, for a total of 25.5 ounces. Because the sandal is so stiff - and that's without the rubber and heel - I will keep the shoulder for the top and move to two layers of 6 ounce luxury veg tan for the straps and two lower soles, for a total of 22 ounces total, or 3/8" (rather than existing 7/16"). It's not much thinner, but two lower soles are luxury veg tan, a supple leather, as opposed the Hermann Oak craftsman veg tan, which is firm. It might make the sandal more supple and less stiff. I guess we shall find out! I'm keeping the top at 10 oz because when I tug on the strap to tighten the front strap, I don't want the topsole to bulge away from the midsole. I want it to be the most durable sole. The mid-, bottom- and gum-soles will add plenty of stiffness, putting the overall thickness at exactly 1/2".

Sheesh... I guess I shoulda run a search for cobblers near me. It's probably a good idea to visit one, or call first, ask if he would be willing to show me what he uses for sole rubber. Cordwainer???

@Tastech I thought you'd like to see this. I'm working through mishaps and thread tension and drive belt tension issues with my Cobra Class 26 sewing machine, and managed to finish sewing the left sandal of my prototype pair. I used a creaser on the topsole and fed the sandal through the machine, without an edge guide. I followed the crease. I also made marks with my blunt all around the straps. The results are one ugly sandal. I intend to change a few things. First, I'll sand the sandal edge and use the roller guide for an even edge stitch. Second, I've already adjusted the stitch length so stitches per inch increases from 6 to 8.5. It is a tighter stitch and it compresses the leather more, because it has less leather to hold together, per stitch. Also, the top thread is snug to the leather rather than laying on top of it. And thirdly, I think I will use a single stitch line to reinforce the slots, and square corners, not rounded. I'll also try to be neater. For the second pair I make , I'm going to use a 6/7 ounce luxury veg tan that I got from Horween. Since my straps are now significantly wider than the 1/2" straps I used to use, I think this will add to comfort, ease of adjusting that front strap, and a slightly lighter shoe. Presenting, drum roll .... "The Oogly" PS I'll move that single stitch line closer to the strap, to hold it down tighter. You know, on the foot side of the strap.

We don't have cobblers in the states as far as I know. There's a shop that makes custom shoes but I doubt that they do repairs. Their stuff looks made for millionaires. I expected that someone would ask me if I'd kindly take my scruffy self down the road, and please don't touch the shoes! Although quite perfect looking, they also looked too stiff to be comfortable. When I was a competitive road racer in my 30's during the foot race craze in the 70's here in the states, I used Shoe Goo to build up my Nike Elite racing shoes at the heel. Great stuff. I still have a half full tube in my survival gear.

Not so, not so! I'll look them up, read the specs, find out what you consider proper sole rubber. I have a sheet of gum rubber, 1/8" , thick, that I'll use on my first pair, the prototype. When I do get to it, I'll use two coats of Barge, just to see if the rubber will stay on.

From the side...

This is the sandal that's ready to stitch. I wet the edge all around so it would take a crease better. I'll stitch in the crease, no machine guide. I used the heavy awl to make crease lines around the straps to reinforce the slot areas. The water stained the leather and I'm hoping that the grease will overshadow that. Two of the slots look too big in the pic but that's because the strap is loosened. The straps have two reductions in it. It goes from 1-7/8" to 1-1/16" to 13/16". Snugging the strap will fill those slots.

The gum rubber is visible in the above picture. This is the backside of the heel, which has been roughed up with a fine striation