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Found 10 results

  1. Can someone explain to me how this is done? I was wanting to do card slots like this for a wallet that I am making, but couldn't figure out, so I went on etsy to see if it was even possible and found a good example, but still can't figure it out. How do the cards in the higher slots not fall to the bottom? I am confused.
  2. Ok so Im working on a suit of leather armor and I have an old hide that is thin enough to use for a certain part of it. Only problem is this hide is old has a bit of mold and is a little stiff (it doesnt roll up really it sorta folds) but its not rock hard and still has give and pliability to it. What (if any) steps should i take to clean up the hide, get rid of the mold and get it a bit more flexible again? Thank you all for the info in advance!
  3. Hello, I was wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction as far as dyeing leather with indigo goes. I love the color it produces, and I am not a huge fan of using oil based dyes. I'd like to dye leather with actual indigo. Has anyone had any experience with this?
  4. I am going to purchase a large (10 x 10 cm) brass stamp to emboss some veg tan. The stamp will fit into my adjustable heated embossing tool and would work well for its intended purpose, but I prefer the look of the stamp when simply hammered or pressed into the leather, rather than burned. I was going to buy a 1/2 ton arbor press from harbor freight to see if that does the job: http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-ton-arbor-press-3551.html The problem with that press is that it only has a 1 inch square ram, and I am afraid that the pressure won't be spread out evenly across the stamp, resulting in an uneven emboss. I was thinking about getting a couple of square pieces of thick metal to place between the ram and the stamp, and then on the opposite side, under the leather, to see if that would help, but I am unsure. Do you guys have any better ideas? The most economical approach is the one I would prefer. Thanks! Zayne
  5. I just recently purchased an 8-9oz Hermann Oak double bend, for belts/straps, and it is very stiff, and will only get more stiff with the application of dyes. I know that the leather being as thick as that, it will only get to a certain amount of flexibility, but I would still like to make it more supple, if possible. Any suggestions? Thanks Zayne
  6. I always hear that you should buff leather after you dye it. However, I don't know exactly what that means. I use feibings pro oil dye. I am making belts currently but will be making other items in the future. I dye the inside of the belt, even when using black (yes, I know), because I don't like how it looks undyed. How does one "buff"? What stage do I buff? After the final resolene finish or right after I dye before I do anything else? And what is the best way to avoid sealing the leather on the flesh side to avoild bleeding? I have heard that using 50/50 resolene on top of gum trag is the way to go. Is that recommended? Thanks! Zayne
  7. I am wondering how you would sew the piece that contains the phone. how it is rounded over and then stitched. I can see how you would do the one side, but after that is done, how would you stitch the opposite side together? You cant see the bottom side, but I'm assuming it's done the same way. Thanks Zayne
  8. I am new to leatherworking, and I was wondering what oz of leather do you usually use for your every day standard belt? I think the couple of belts I have made were from 6 oz leather. Is that too thin? I'll also probably be making some womens belts (the skinny kind), and some dog collars. Would I use the same thickness on all three, or should they be different oz? Or is it really just a matter of preference? Thanks Zayne
  9. Do I dye my leather before or after tooling? I've been dying after is this right?
  10. I will be building New yankee workshop's cigar chair. How can I order a whole hide of upholstery leather brown and know that I'm getting a quality product? This will be my first leather project ever.
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