Members dikman Posted March 17, 2022 Members Report Posted March 17, 2022 Another possibility, as long as the parts haven't been heat treated, is to heat them and drop them in oil (light engine oil, canola oil, olive oil - it doesn't seem to matter which one), this gives a nice black finish with some rust protection. It's a method used by folk who restore old stuff. Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
ButtonLady Posted March 18, 2022 Report Posted March 18, 2022 23 hours ago, Woehlk said: Doing some cold blueing of some of the parts. Its SO fun! Feel like a kid discovering paint for the first time I thought I was the only one... Just love watching the finish magically appear. I do it outside now because it smells so bad —not quite as much fun in January... 17 hours ago, dikman said: Another possibility, as long as the parts haven't been heat treated, is to heat them and drop them in oil (light engine oil, canola oil, olive oil - it doesn't seem to matter which one), this gives a nice black finish with some rust protection. THANK YOU! We use a lot of heat treated parts, and I had NO IDEA how it was done. Can you really never heat treat a part a second time? ...and how do you clean off the oil without affecting the finish? (sorry for the interrogation, but this is fascinating). Quote Sewing Machines: Juki DNU-1541 and waaay too many home machines and sergers... Button Machines: Osborne, Wade, Defiance, Maxant, Handy Jr. #1 and #20, Fasnap PM5 (and too many dies to count)
Members dikman Posted March 18, 2022 Members Report Posted March 18, 2022 If a part has been heat treated, i.e. hardened and tempered, if you re-heat it you run the risk of removing the hardness and making it soft metal. If that happens the part will need to go through the hardening/tempering process again. The heat carbonizes/carburizes the oil onto the surface which won't wipe off. Wiping the part with a solvent (mineral spirits, petrol etc) will remove the excess oil and should leave a blackened finish. Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
ButtonLady Posted March 19, 2022 Report Posted March 19, 2022 6 hours ago, dikman said: If a part has been heat treated, i.e. hardened and tempered, if you re-heat it you run the risk of removing the hardness and making it soft metal. If that happens the part will need to go through the hardening/tempering process again. It's right at the edge of my brain... If something has been heated and dropped in oil [and left to cool?] = "heat treated", couldn't you just repeat the process? Or is this different from hardening/tempering? 6 hours ago, dikman said: The heat carbonizes/carburizes the oil onto the surface which won't wipe off. Wiping the part with a solvent (mineral spirits, petrol etc) will remove the excess oil and should leave a blackened finish. Very helpful... thanks! Quote Sewing Machines: Juki DNU-1541 and waaay too many home machines and sergers... Button Machines: Osborne, Wade, Defiance, Maxant, Handy Jr. #1 and #20, Fasnap PM5 (and too many dies to count)
Members Woehlk Posted March 19, 2022 Author Members Report Posted March 19, 2022 (edited) So I tried the new synthetic wig I bought, this is some strange stuff. cant burn, glows orange hot when put under heat :s The whetting capabilities are super!, much better then the cotton wick I testet. AND, it will not decompose and turn to dirt The big hole at the top, I used some oil burner wick, that fit perfect in the hole :D Also did a lot for cleaning, with some unknown green cleaner I got from the local auto body shop. Its nasty, makes the paint to goo is not rinsed with it water right after. I am going ahead with painting it. I have chosen British Racing green in semi gloss. and ordered gold Pfaff decals. Its going to look amazing I think!. and since the color was invented in 1903, I thinks it appropriate enough. Of course, silver would be better, being the German color, but hey, I like the green. Edited March 19, 2022 by Woehlk Quote
Members jimi Posted March 19, 2022 Members Report Posted March 19, 2022 Nice work Woehlk! well done, its coming along gr8.... Quote
Members dikman Posted March 19, 2022 Members Report Posted March 19, 2022 My apologies for taking this off-topic - Button Lady, if you search google you'll find everything (and more) that you'll ever want to know about heat-treating steel. In short, re-heating hardened steel can remove the hardening, it can be re-hardened BUT the process will depend on the type of steel used. Back on topic, Woehlk, I'm impressed! You don't mess around, straight into the painting! Glad you know what you're doing. Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
Members Woehlk Posted March 23, 2022 Author Members Report Posted March 23, 2022 So here is the status, im sanding down by hand, getting it somewhat smooth to prepare for the primer. Im coating the primer myself, to self some money at the auto painters. , Quote
Members chrisash Posted March 23, 2022 Members Report Posted March 23, 2022 Have you considered Powder coating , its a much harder finish Quote Mi omputer is ot ood at speeling , it's not me
Members Woehlk Posted March 23, 2022 Author Members Report Posted March 23, 2022 Yes I have. BUT, that would require taking all the paint and primer of. And I heard that is a vary hard job Also, since going in the oven, I would have to 100% strip the machine. Right now, she have some of her cuts lefts Quote
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