Members JWheeler331 Posted May 19, 2022 Members Report Posted May 19, 2022 I tool first then line it. Quote
Members dikman Posted May 19, 2022 Author Members Report Posted May 19, 2022 Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
Contributing Member Samalan Posted May 20, 2022 Contributing Member Report Posted May 20, 2022 I was going to write this whole page on how to do it but did not have to Dwight said it all perfect! Quote
Members dikman Posted May 21, 2022 Author Members Report Posted May 21, 2022 This is my first attempt (probably not my last) at the carving pattern for my holster. The shaded area is for the belt loop, a normal Slim Jim would sit too high on the belt for Single Action shooting so I've modified it to have a slight drop-loop for my needs. What I would like are some critical comments on what's wrong with my design before I hack up the leather! I have minimal artistic ability so am struggling with this. My intention is to have a simple incised line to contain the design and the two ovals will have a simple cactus in it (my Single Action name is Cactus Jack Slade, so it seemed fitting to have a cactus on it ). Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
Contributing Member fredk Posted May 21, 2022 Contributing Member Report Posted May 21, 2022 as far as I can see the inner edges of the two cartouche with the cactus will be lost around the bend and they'll look bad. Do you really need a full design on the back? I think, you should get rid of the rear cartouche and have the main design fade away to nothing just beyond the bend, about 1/3 through the belt loop position [from the bend]. Move the front cartouche more to the edge and thin it and elongate it; overlap that upper leaf and lower flower petal; like its a concho applied over them. I'd move that border line along the edge closer to the edge. A few mm or bits of an inch can make a big difference Quote Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..
Members dikman Posted May 21, 2022 Author Members Report Posted May 21, 2022 Thanks fredk, food for thought. The reason I continued the pattern onto the back is that there's no skirt to hide the back so to me it would look odd if the back is blank. The border edge is placed to allow for the stitching but could be moved out a bit more, I guess. And you may be right about getting rid of the rear cactus, it does make it look a bit "busy" (or crowded?). My other alternative is to make a larger oval and cactus, do away with the rest of the carving and just stamp a border - but that seems a bit defeatist. Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
CFM chuck123wapati Posted May 21, 2022 CFM Report Posted May 21, 2022 That is a nice design! i always stop my designs in the middle of the holster right down the center of the front as no one sees the back and so much tooling definition is lost forming at the bend. BUT i see no harm in going all the way if you choose, not a thing wrong with that. maybe over lap a couple of the leaves onto the cactus ovals and change up some of their sizes I would suggest a compass and French curves to create the stems into more fluid turns. Another trick i use is to scan a copy and shade in all the negative space. this will show you haw much background you will have and how it effects the design. i can see some large areas that could be filled like under the top flower and along the left edge Quote Worked in a prison for 30 years if I aint shiny every time I comment its no big deal, I just don't wave pompoms. “I won’t be wronged, I won’t be insulted, and I won’t be laid a hand on. I don’t do these things to other people, and I require the same from them.” THE DUKE!
Contributing Member JLSleather Posted May 21, 2022 Contributing Member Report Posted May 21, 2022 I like the pattern to go beyond the center line, but carving the 'back" or inside isnt' something I'd normally do. And yeah - carve it, let it dry, then line it (on a curve). Quote "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
CFM tsunkasapa Posted May 21, 2022 CFM Report Posted May 21, 2022 I concur with Chuck. No need to do the back, and fill some of the larger 'open' areas with more scrolls and stem. Any cut lines on a top to bottom axis at the fold will have a tendency to pop open. Quote Hoka Hey! Today, tomorrow, next week, what does it matter?
Members dikman Posted May 21, 2022 Author Members Report Posted May 21, 2022 Glad I asked, I was having trouble viewing it objectively. Time to rework it a bit, methinks. Chuck, you obviously noticed I was having trouble with curves () so yeah, looks like a set of French curves will be a good investment. JLS, that holster on the left is stunning! I can't get my head around how you drew the design!!! Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
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