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Sham

Singer 29-4 bell crank

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Anybody have a refurbished bell crank I could swap out to try and regain stitch length?

 

675164DF-F064-4A85-BD6A-EEF4E5057B3E.jpeg

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I’ve seen some aftermarket ones that say they fit, but I’ve heard they don’t? 

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You can make the aftermarket ones work. I did that a few years ago on a 29K1. You may also need the feed motion Ring if your is worn.

I have compared the parts here:

https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/60554-29k1-pre-christmas-barn-find/?do=findComment&comment=390874

 

 

 

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Thank you! I read through it, doesn’t look too hard if I can get the parts. 

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If you go to needlebar.org and then search for ken's life or ken jerrem's you will find a excellent article on shimming various parts on a 29-4.  You can buy 1mm shim stock buy the inch from NAPA

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College sewing machine parts in the UK has most model 29 parts, but I don't see a bell crank on their site. It wouldn't hurt to check with them on availability and interchange ability.I rebuilt a 29K71 from their parts and everything worked like it should.

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College Sewing only caries parts for the newer 29K machines.  Not 29-4 or early K machines.

glenn

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On 10/15/2022 at 5:42 PM, Sham said:

Anybody have a refurbished bell crank I could swap out to try and regain stitch length?

 

675164DF-F064-4A85-BD6A-EEF4E5057B3E.jpeg

We have found the best way to fix it is put some bronze on the on the tongue using a torch(Brazing it) that fits in the ring & file it off so it's a tight fit.

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Kunpeng on Ebay sell both bell crank and feed motion rings pretty cheap.  I've used them in both Adler 30-1 and Singer 29-4 machines as well as a 29k60. Be Aware... the parts are not always consistent from one order to the next, don't appear to be matched to anything after they were machined and you will need to do some machining/grinding yourself to make them functional, especially in a 30-1.  Basically.... expect to "Hand Fit" the aftermarket parts to your machine.  Occasionally you can split the difference by mix n match if you have a surplus of used cranks and rings (i.e. a new aftermarket and an old worn-in part).  But don't count on it.  Cowboy Bob is spot on.... building up (by brazing) the knob on the crank is usually the best way to go. As you have two parts that have lapped in to each other over many years, even then it will take some hand finishing to make it work.

The 29k60 was the best fit out of the box but even then I was matching multiple cranks and rings.  It sews like new but feed motion only rotates freely about 280 degrees then stiffens and takes a firm hand to continue to rotate it.  Luckily I don't sew too many circles and it's not impossible to turn. Eventually it will either wear-in or I'll tear it all down and figure out what's causing the bind. It all depends on what's the most stubborn... me or the parts.

(Too bad Pilgrim isn't around anymore... I heard Harris dumped all his patcher parts in a scrapyard when he liquidated *sigh*) 

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Man, I’ve spent a lot of time and some money on this thing and I think it’s worse now. I did build up with brazing. But not sewing so great and only tiny. What else could it be?

Edited by Sham

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Check the Needle Bar Lift Lever Follower Roller.  My post this thread:

Singer 29-3 Presser Foot Won't Rotate - Leather Sewing Machines - Leatherworker.net

 

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On 10/21/2022 at 2:38 PM, Gump said:

College sewing machine parts in the UK has most model 29 parts, but I don't see a bell crank on their site. It wouldn't hurt to check with them on availability and interchange ability.I rebuilt a 29K71 from their parts and everything worked like it should.

Thanks for answer!

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