How do you get an even coat of leather dye on veg-tan?

[RedCliffsLeatherwork]

I bought half of a hide of very thin (2-3oz) veg-tan to make wallet interiors out of. (i.e. the card slots etc.) I want to dye it a nice rich brown before using it. Can I try to dye the whole thing at once, that sounds very hard... Or I was just planning on dyeing each pocket piece individually. What are your recommendations for an even coat? Dip dye? Dauber, Sponge? If you dip dye, how do you hold the piece, because wherever you hold it, it seems the dye wouldn't soak in? All advice would be appreciated!

[Gezzer]

I'll offer this with very limited experience ,  dip dye will be the best even result . By all means I would NOT try the whole side , I would break it down to just over the finished size . Use a pair of tweezers to hold it and if it doesn't dye under the point of hold  cut off that little bit . Try 1 piece at the finished size , I  will bet the dye will still work under the point of hold .

 

I think I have dipped 3 or 4 items so you may want to wait on someone with more experience  

[Tugadude]

I'd strike a happy medium.  No need to dye the whole thing or dye pocket pieces individually.  I'd do smaller, workable sections from which you will cut your pieces.  I like to keep it to perhaps 18" square when possible.  

Application can range from daubers to dip dyeing to air brush.  I've seen some really nice results from air brushing but haven't done it myself.  

I use a dauber usually and I apply the dye in circular motions, and try to keep it as uniform as possible.  I don't mind minor variations and think they often add to the look.  

[Dwight]

Dip dyeing and air brush will both give you an even coat.  Dauber and wool may . . . but I've never been as successful as I like to be.

Air brush though I do not use . . . the coat is so thin with a normal air brush routine . . . scratch it and you will generally go thru the dye . . . dip dye stops that.

Buy a box of latex or vinyl gloves . . . use a 9  by 14 baking pan . . . I've got one for black . . . one for browns . . . I pour out of a quart bottle . . . I've mixed my dye in it . . . 50/50 dye and reducer . . . start one end in the dye . . . push it to the other side . . . grab it with the glove . . . tap it to get the excess off it . . . lay it down . . . flesh side down . . . to dry . . . or if it is a sheath or holster . . . set it out for about 10 minutes . . . then into the hot box if I'm doing that.

The gloves are the best bet . . . 

After finishing the dye job . . . put a funnel in the neck of the dye bottle . . . pour the leftover back into  the bottle . . . use two paper towels to wipe the pan out . . . toss the gloves and the paper towels . . . cleanup is complete.

Dye job is done . . . and you will find out that you CAN use different than a 50/50 mix . . . but more dye and you have to mess with a bunch of dried pigment . . . more reducer and the dye job can bleach out in the sun.  I have a holster and belt set that was a really beautiful medium grey . . . the black bleached out . . .  it is now a "kinda" grey tinted brown.  

Anyway . . . have fun . . . may God bless,

Dwight

[TonyV]

dye it by sections, as previously suggested.  By my way of thinking, I might want to try a different color down the road.

Dip gets the smoothest result.

[RedCliffsLeatherwork]

Thanks everyone, what is the best dye? Fiebings? Angelus? 

[Gezzer]

4 hours ago, RedCliffsLeatherwork said:

Thanks everyone, what is the best dye? Fiebings? Angelus? 

How long is a piece of rope .......

I haven't used anything but Fiebings , but I am guessing  that the difference will just come down to personal preference  . 

[LeatherLegion]

On 2-3oz i usually use an air brush , especially if using an alcohol base dye as i am trying to limit  as much as i can the amount of alcohol  going into that piece of leather 

[Burkhardt]

Is it a import veg tan that you're using?

[johnnydb]

I've successfully used feelings regular dye (not pro dye) that had been drastically diluted with neatsfoot oil.  Like 3% dye and 97% neatsfoot.  

Dip dying then is not a viable option....where it will give a homogeneous color it turns the leather into a piece of rubber that shrinks too much to be of use.  Not to mention that it continually gives off oil.  

A paint roller brush that overwhelms the piece you are dying is a good method...but for larger pieces you need to use a larger roller.   You don't want your roller to develop dry vs excess spots.  

 

But in truth I don't understand why everyone wants machine like precision...you are making an artisan product.  It's expected to have tiny "flaws" or inconsistencies because it's a hand made product.  That includes the dying.  Factory made crap that is mass produced and "perfect" is cheap and usually readily available for pennies on the dollar vx what you are crafting.   

 

Sure you want it to be done well...to the best of your abilities.   But you are not a machine.  You are in the role of a craftsman.  Do well and pay attention to the finishing details that you can manage.  The dye imperfections will fade and spread with time.  So don't sweat them too much.  

[Tugadude]

35 minutes ago, johnnydb said:

I've successfully used feelings regular dye (not pro dye) that had been drastically diluted with neatsfoot oil.  Like 3% dye and 97% neatsfoot.  

Dip dying then is not a viable option....where it will give a homogeneous color it turns the leather into a piece of rubber that shrinks too much to be of use.  Not to mention that it continually gives off oil.  

A paint roller brush that overwhelms the piece you are dying is a good method...but for larger pieces you need to use a larger roller.   You don't want your roller to develop dry vs excess spots.  

 

But in truth I don't understand why everyone wants machine like precision...you are making an artisan product.  It's expected to have tiny "flaws" or inconsistencies because it's a hand made product.  That includes the dying.  Factory made crap that is mass produced and "perfect" is cheap and usually readily available for pennies on the dollar vx what you are crafting.   

 

Sure you want it to be done well...to the best of your abilities.   But you are not a machine.  You are in the role of a craftsman.  Do well and pay attention to the finishing details that you can manage.  The dye imperfections will fade and spread with time.  So don't sweat them too much.  

I tend to agree with this sentiment.  The same holds true for character marks in leather.  I don't consider them flaws, just part of the deal.  But I also respect the decision to avoid them.  Different strokes for different folks.

On a related note, I am a wrist watch fan and you wouldn't believe the number of companies that are selling watches made to look worn.  They are literally subjecting them to abuse prior to selling them, accelerating the patina so to speak.  Amazing, but there you are.

 

Edit:  P.S.  Next thing you know they'll be selling blue jeans with holes in them.  

Edited November 8, 2022 by Tugadude

[tsunkasapa]

I use a dauber most of the time. Up and down once, back and forth once. And finally spiraling out from the center. The looks will even out with bit of buffing to remove excess pigment and a light oiling.

[Double Daddy]

I dip dye (in similar fashion to Dwight's instructions above) or use shearing for larger leather pieces that won't fit in my containers (portfolio covers, etc). I used to "try" to use daubers for this kinda task but it always ended up "streaky" no matter how/what method or pattern I went about it...the larger shearing piece works better with my 50/50 dye/thinner mix and I get a more even soaking on those bigger cuts of leather. If I'm going to do a "soap-wash" finish on the leather, I'll use a lighter dye color first because that process always darkens it to nearly the final desired color (i.e. use a lighter brown dye if wanting walnut or dark brown...it will turn a single coat of saddle tan to an almost medium of you aren't careful). Of course, I finish up with a light coat of pure neatsfoot oil (not the compound) after all has had time to dry.