First pair of sandals underway

[NatesLeatherGds]

Keep at it, don't worry about mistakes, don't fret if you waste, and you'll make it and they will be great. 

[deboardp]

30 minutes ago, NatesLeatherGds said:

Keep at it, don't worry about mistakes, don't fret if you waste, and you'll make it and they will be great. 

This first pair is for me, and I'm treating it as a learning experience, to figure out the real life application of all the leatherworking techniques I've studied this past year and a half, especially for this design, which is a slight development of my basic sandal making skills from 50 years ago. The big difference is that I'm using three thin layers instead of two thick ones, and I'm adding professional finishes, not to mention the industrial sewing machine from Cobra. 

50 years ago there was a guy in Maine making the top sandal in the northeast, and there was a shop in downtown Amherst, MA, making the #2 sandal, and I was making a decent but rough sandal behind those two.  Now nobody makes them! Actually there are a few, but not like during the wild hippy Era. 

Edited January 23, 2024 by deboardp

[deboardp]

The one ton press

[Mablung]

2 hours ago, deboardp said:

I used it on my kitchen knife and the results were that the process was quick, simple, and extraordinary. Never had that knife that sharp, and the effort was minimal, as well as the time. 

Huh.  I may need to give another thought to whether I dismiss that technique.  I'll try it when I have time and take a look at whatever knife edge I choose with my jeweler's loupe.  (Used to use the thing all the time when sharpening blades, but I've gotten out of the habit.)

[deboardp]

@Tastech I thought you'd like to see this. 

I'm working through mishaps and thread tension and drive belt tension issues with my Cobra Class 26 sewing machine, and managed to finish sewing the left sandal of my prototype pair. I used a creaser on the topsole and fed the sandal through the machine, without an edge guide. I followed the crease. I also made marks with my blunt all around the straps. The results are one ugly sandal. 

I intend to change a few things. First, I'll sand the sandal edge and use the roller guide for an even edge stitch. Second, I've already adjusted the stitch length so stitches per inch increases from 6 to 8.5. It is a tighter stitch and it compresses the leather more, because it has less leather to hold together, per stitch. Also, the top thread is snug to the leather rather than laying on top of it. And thirdly, I think I will use a single stitch line to reinforce the slots, and square corners, not rounded. I'll also try to be neater. 

For the second pair I make , I'm going to use a 6/7 ounce luxury veg tan that I got from Horween. Since my straps are now significantly wider than the 1/2" straps I used to use, I think this will add to comfort, ease of adjusting that front strap, and a slightly lighter shoe. 

Presenting, drum roll ....

"The Oogly"

PS I'll move that single stitch line closer to the strap, to hold it down tighter. You know, on the foot side of the strap. 

Edited January 28, 2024 by deboardp

[Mablung]

How are these coming?

[deboardp]

On 2/14/2024 at 3:06 PM, Mablung said:

How are these coming?

Slow. The VA granted my claim for disability compensation after 15 years of homelessness, and now I will not be homeless again. So the frantic need to make and sell sandals is gone. I'm doing more for the Church and less for the sandal shop. 

But I'm getting closer to completing the first pair. 

I'll stitch the heel loops next, then glue the heel and gum rubber half sole on, burnish the sandal edges, grease her up, and put the buckle on. Probably burnish before gluing rubber on. 

I hope they fit!

[Mablung]

3 hours ago, deboardp said:

Slow. The VA granted my claim for disability compensation after 15 years of homelessness, and now I will not be homeless again. So the frantic need to make and sell sandals is gone. I'm doing more for the Church and less for the sandal shop. 

But I'm getting closer to completing the first pair. 

I'll stitch the heel loops next, then glue the heel and gum rubber half sole on, burnish the sandal edges, grease her up, and put the buckle on. Probably burnish before gluing rubber on. 

I hope they fit!

Nice to have some breathing room financially, so I'm glad to hear that.  +1 to burnishing the sandal edges before gluing the sole, unless you're concerned you'll not get the sole quite true and need to do any last trimming.  Looking forward to seeing the finished product.

[deboardp]

On 2/14/2024 at 3:06 PM, Mablung said:

How are these coming?

Hahaha

I discovered that I lost my desperate motivation to get sales of sandals, you know, because I now have sufficient income to have a home, and therefore did nothing the last two months. But I finally decided to finish this pair for me. The last five days I have 1) stitched the ankle posts; 2) dyed the leather; 3) hand stuffed the leather with the warm water and hand massage with grease method; 4) let it dry, then rubbed the grease film off. Here's a picture. 

Tasks that remain are: 1) glue on heel and 3/4 sole; 2) apply and polish with cod liver oil; 3) final fitting/ buckle installation. 

I don't know why the black thread looks white. Maybe it's the grease. 

What is the future of my sandal shop? I know some monks who have foot problems and I would like to make them sandals. I might make it known to church members that they can buy a monk a pair if they want. 

Edited April 24, 2024 by deboardp

[deboardp]

My stitching is awful. Haha

[deboardp]

Next time I dye a pair I'm going to make a sandal-sized tub for the dye and soak them in it. I had to repeat dying them TWICE. 

I'm very happy overall with the way they look. I can see leather grain. 

Here's a Louc after first dye operation. I can see red. 

Edited April 24, 2024 by deboardp

[Wepster]

A lot of work, and they look pretty darn good. Very substantial. When you tell someone you made them they will look at you with that dropped jaw stunned look, "YOU MADE THOSE?". That will feel pretty good.

[dikman]

Yes, your stitching needs some work, but after dyeing them they look pretty bloody good!

[Mablung]

Agreed with the others that those look pretty darn good. Yeah, clean up your stitch lines (I can’t cast too many stones, considering the state of the stitching on a pair of chukka boots I’m making currently), but overall those look good and substantial. See if you can sell some, as it sounds like you’ve sunk some money into the tools and materials and could use supplementing your income anyway, but also just enjoy those. I like it. 

[AlZilla]

Those little stitch line inconsistencies will disappear with practice.  Overall, very nice work.  It's always impressive when a person can turn out handcrafted work that looks like it was machine made. But what's the point of that?

[stampingdelight]

looking great 

[NatesLeatherGds]

looking good!

[toxo]

On 1/23/2024 at 1:27 PM, deboardp said:

The one ton press

Is the wheel part of the press? If so what does it do?

[deboardp]

34 minutes ago, toxo said:

Is the wheel part of the press? If so what does it do?

It's for quick raising and lowering of the shaft. Otherwise you'd have to turn the handle round and round. 

[deboardp]

Thank you, guys. I'm also pleased with how they look so far. The black dye really helps make them look rich. 

I'm gluing the rubber bottom on. The glue is drying as I type this. I will probably finish them today and will take multiple pictures from all perspectives. 

 

Edited April 25, 2024 by deboardp

[deboardp]

Finished them, took them for a walk... pictures first and then a brief introduction to the problem with an open toe design. 

 

[deboardp]

These socks have a Grey front section so it's hard to see the sandals' front edge. 

[deboardp]

I had forgotten about the problem with open toe sandals, but taking my first walk in them brought it back to me. Without a strap  between the big toe and the second toe, there's nothing to keep the front of the foot centered on the sandal except that big front strap, which has to be tight during break in, and maybe even after that. All 3 straps, actually, have to be tight. I could only fiddle with them for 30 minutes. They hurt! The straps are only 8 ounces, but the front one varies from 1-7/8" over the big knuckle and 1" even over the small knuckle. I reduce that strap to 13/16" where it comes out of the sole behind the big knuckle. It's a nice fit into the 3/4" nickel Conway buckle. I always used Conway 54 years ago, but they were 1/2". When I saw how my straps stretched out and were only 3/8" after 20 years, I decided next time I'd go 3/4". However I did buy some 1/2", some 5/8", and even some 1", in case a lumberjack needs sandals. 

It's gonna take some doing for these shoes to break in, and there's going to be some toughening up of tender feet involved. I'm surprised that after stuffing about 3 ounces of an 8 oz can of Colorado Leather Balm and then a bunch of cod liver oil the straps are not softer. I thought of wetting them a little next time but am concerned about stretching. Anybody want to weigh in on how to help the break- in? Feel free!

[AlZilla]

@deboardp, I have a question about something you said earlier in the thread. You mentioned something earlier about wanting to make sandals for people who had foot problems.  I find flat bottomed shoes of any kind make my feet hurt and my knees/hips are none too happy either.

So, how do the sandals help with foot problems? I'd think without arch support, they'd make more problems, not less.

Any insight?

[deboardp]

20 minutes ago, AlZilla said:

@deboardp, I have a question about something you said earlier in the thread. You mentioned something earlier about wanting to make sandals for people who had foot problems.  I find flat bottomed shoes of any kind make my feet hurt and my knees/hips are none too happy either.

So, how do the sandals help with foot problems? I'd think without arch support, they'd make more problems, not less.

Any insight?

I was referring to some monks I know who can't find sandals that fit them. I'm not sure if these sandals I'm making, with this design, will help them. I think they will be painful to break in. Without a strap between the two big toes, the straps have to be snug to keep the foot centered. 

One person had surgery on the bones of his foot to straighten his foot, and my sandals will be too hard for him to break in. The only positive is that the sole and straps will be in the right places, but it seems break in will be painful and arduous. 

I used to build or insert arches, but now I believe that our feet are well designed for walking and the soles are for protecting them from stones we might step on. We actually have arches in our feet so I don't presume to think I can build arches. Our natural arches are self supporting. If we have flat feet, using shoes with built in arches will hurt our feet. So I make my sandals totally flat. The heel I use is only 1/8" thicker than the 3/4 sole, which is 1/8" thick. 

I'm considering a softer and thinner leather - a 6.5 ounce luxury vegetable tan side - for the straps. Because my straps are wider, it might be strong enough to resist stretching.