Fudging stitch length @ a border/corner: Cobra class 4

[DieselTech]

Guys & gals I recently got a cobra class 4 & curious how you fudge the stitch length at a 90° corner or at a border line.

Say there is not enough length for 1 more stitch to be at the border/corner you are approaching.

What is the right way to do this? Cause I'm a newbie with big ole sewing machine. 

Thanks. Heres a pic.

[JLSleather]

you'll want to spread the difference over 3 er 4 stitches, so you don' t have 1 or 2 real short, very obvious ones.  It's worse at a corner.

Generally, for soemthing like what you have in the pic, I would mark with an overstitch wheel starting from the point working backwards, so that the TURN comes out correct.  You can "fudge' a few stitches before getting to the corner, and you'l be fine.

[Goldshot Ron]

To fudge this, you move you stitch length handle up a little to adjust the stitch.  There is a good tutorial on Youtube using a 205 clone.  I am sorry that I cannot remember the name of the video, but it is very helpful.

[DieselTech]

37 minutes ago, JLSleather said:

you'll want to spread the difference over 3 er 4 stitches, so you don' t have 1 or 2 real short, very obvious ones.  It's worse at a corner.

Generally, for soemthing like what you have in the pic, I would mark with an overstitch wheel starting from the point working backwards, so that the TURN comes out correct.  You can "fudge' a few stitches before getting to the corner, and you'l be fine.

 

7 minutes ago, Goldshot Ron said:

To fudge this, you move you stitch length handle up a little to adjust the stitch.  There is a good tutorial on Youtube using a 205 clone.  I am sorry that I cannot remember the name of the video, but it is very helpful.

Ok thanks. I appreciate all the help. Me being a newbie & all to this sewing machine stuff. 

I'll see if I can find that video tutorial. 

Thanks. 

[Uwe]

I would turn the hand wheel to bring the tip of the needle very close to the material without the inner foot touching the material. Then move the stitch length lever until it points exactly where you want the stitch to go and make the stitch.

[DieselTech]

On 4/4/2024 at 5:52 PM, Uwe said:

I would turn the hand wheel to bring the tip of the needle very close to the material without the inner foot touching the material. Then move the stitch length lever until it points exactly where you want the stitch to go and make the stitch.

Thank you. I was wondering if I could do that. Or if it would miss a stitch. Thanks. I'll practice that for a bit. 

[bladegrinder]

Like Uwe said, I use the flywheel by hand, slightly raising the foot then drive the needle home by hand with the wheel. but like JL said if your to close to the edge it's going to stand out.

[DieselTech]

11 minutes ago, bladegrinder said:

Like Uwe said, I use the flywheel by hand, slightly raising the foot then drive the needle home by hand with the wheel. but like JL said if your to close to the edge it's going to stand out.

Thanks. I appreciate it. So do most guys measure the overall stitch area to be sewn, then set your desired stitch on your machine & use a over stitch wheel to mark the piece being sewn? Or do they do the math for where the stitch will end on the piece being sewn?

Also I have been able to recognize 3-4stitches from the end, whether I will be short or long on the last stitch. Lmao was just unsure what to do to compensate for it. Being a newbie & all on sewing machines. 

Thanks. 

Edited April 5 by DieselTech

[Hags]

I watched a video by Ben Geisler about making belts. He removes the thread, starts at the tip, and "sews" (punching holes) down to the base. Then, assuming you haven't changed anything,  put in the thread, and sew back up and around. You should fall the same holes and be dead on at the tip.

Edited April 5 by Hags

[BlackDragon]

I never do the math, mostly because I'm bad at math.

As I get to the tip I will begin to adjust for the gap. By hand cranking I get the needle just above the leather then lift the foot to move the leather to the desired spot. I'll do this over 3 or 4 stitches.

[DieselTech]

14 hours ago, Hags said:

I watched a video by Ben Geisler about making belts. He removes the thread, starts at the tip, and "sews" (punching holes) down to the base. Then, assuming you haven't changed anything,  put in the thread, and sew back up and around. You should fall the same holes and be dead on at the tip.

 

3 hours ago, BlackDragon said:

I never do the math, mostly because I'm bad at math.

As I get to the tip I will begin to adjust for the gap. By hand cranking I get the needle just above the leather then lift the foot to move the leather to the desired spot. I'll do this over 3 or 4 stitches.

Thanks everybody. I will take all the advice you seasoned guys & gals have helped me with. I appreciate it. 

Edited April 5 by DieselTech