Combining Fiebing's products

[Mocivnik]

I use 100% of Fiebings products for dying, staining and finishing leather, I don't use any other - although it's more expensive than others that I've tried, but it's the only one I'm satisfied with so far. This is not a commercial for Fiebing's, I'm just explaining myself.

I use Fiebing's Pro Dye to dye the leatherwork (then applying acrylic resolene with airbrush. I dip-dye belts and for everything else I use airbrush. But after dying (mostly after dip-dying) belts are very stiff - so I would consider using Fiebing's Neatsfoot Oil and then Resolene - would it work? Would it even be reasonable to use Resolene after Neatsfoot oil?

 

And another question: After tooling leather and dying it with Pro Dye - is okay to use Antique Finish? And after that, I would use Neatsfoot oil and then Resolene for the finish - would it work or am I using too much preparations for leather?

 

Thanks for any help!

[kgg]

2 hours ago, Mocivnik said:

But after dying (mostly after dip-dying) belts are very stiff - so I would consider using Fiebing's Neatsfoot Oil and then Resolene - would it work?

As a suggestion try doing a test piece and compare the result with your present method.

Test piece 

i) Oil the top side of the leather by airbrushing (above 34 psi) first and then lightly oil the backside after letting the topside sit for a few minutes. Let the leather sit for 24 hours to soften and let the oil spread the leather fibres.

ii) Then airbrush the top side of leather with the dye (50/50 mix at an air pressure of above 34 psi). Then lightly airbrush the dye to the backside. Let sit for 24 hours or longer then to allow the dye to spread and darker slightly. Then a final light coat of oil. 

Compare the result with your present method.

kgg

[BlackDragon]

I use NFO before dyeing, it helps carry the dye more evenly and makes it more pliable when it dries. I let the NFO sit for a least a few hours

I have done NFO after dyeing and used Resolene/water 1:1 ratio and it comes out fine.

One trick I do after the leather dries, in this case a belt, I work the belt into a coil in both directions and inside out to make it pliable before adding the Resolene mix.

[Hildebrand]

I generally put a coat of NFO on and let it set 24 hours before dying.  I finish with Resolene diluted 1:1 with water and have never had a problem.  I use a wool pad for the NFO just putting enough of a coat on to see the color change, I am not soaking it with the NFO I think you can over do it and make your leather too soft.

Todd

[chuck123wapati]

did you look here?https://fiebing.com/blog/

[Cumberland Highpower]

15 hours ago, Mocivnik said:

Would it even be reasonable to use Resolene after Neatsfoot oil?

I'd say so.

Years ago I read John Bianchi's book on holsters (1980's).  In it he detailed a bit that they would treat molded and dried holsters with neatsfoot oil, then place in the California sun for that rich golden glow and then treat with hard wax.    Resolene would have pretty much the same effect as using hard wax/mop and glo, etc.

Bianchi was without doubt the expert on the subject. If such a thing worked for him, it will work for you.  Just don't saturate the leather with Neatsfoot.

I personally don't like Resolene.  Your results may vary, so if it works for you, use it.   I'd suggest Weaver tough Kote (or Tough Kote in BLACK) over resolene.  It's similar, but slightly more matte than bright glossy. (Ok, may or may not be available in the EU?)

I've used lots of Feibings Pro Dye (Oil Dye) and I never really had any stiffening or drying out to speak of.   The cheaper Feibings dye  is far worse for drying out your leather though.  Are you sure you're not using it instead?

Edited 6 hours ago by Cumberland Highpower