Needles And Threads

[Art]

Leatherworker.net has become an international success. One problem, we and our industry are mired in a combination/confusion of Imperial/Metric/Trade measurements. This can be a problem when trying to talk about needles and threads. The following table deals primarily with twisted multifilament threads of the Nylon and Polyester varieties.

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Needle and Thread.htm

Art

[sandyt]

I was/am sure having a hard time with all the diferent types. This helps a lot. Thanks. Does somebody have a table like this for needle sizes also?

Thanks.

Sandy.

[Ferg]

Campbell Randall may have the needle chart, they have much information on their site.

ferg

I was/am sure having a hard time with all the diferent types. This helps a lot. Thanks. Does somebody have a table like this for needle sizes also?

Thanks.

Sandy.

[busted]

I was/am sure having a hard time with all the diferent types. This helps a lot. Thanks. Does somebody have a table like this for needle sizes also?

Thanks.

Sandy.

http://www.industrialsewmachine.com/webdoc3/thread.htm

this is a web site I use for reference it is both needle size and thread size. Schmetz has the needle chart you are looking for http://aaasewingmachines.com/schmetz.aspx.

Maybe these will help.

[Techsew Ron]

Here's a PDF version of our needle/thread chart that you can print out and keep by your machine.

http://raphaelsewing.com/blogimg/techsew_ndl_thread_chart.pdf

[RandyScott]

Schmetz has the needle chart you are looking for http://aaasewingmach...m/schmetz.aspx.

The above link returns an error... not to worry... simply backspace through the period following 'aspx' in the URL box, hit the Enter key and the link loads.

[amuckart]

A question about converting between different thread size formats. What does a "V" in the front of the number signify? I rang a local supplier here about bonded polyester and the sizes they quoted me were V69 - V207.

Thanks.

[Wizcrafts]

A question about converting between different thread size formats. What does a "V" in the front of the number signify? I rang a local supplier here about bonded polyester and the sizes they quoted me were V69 - V207.

Thanks.

A "V" type thread is the same any bonded thread. Each manufacturer is allowed to call their thread by whatever type they want, unless they are selling to the US Government. Then, the nylon thread must meet government Mil Spec VT-295. This may be why some thread companies prefix bonded nylon thread with the letter V.

Your decisions regarding thread should be based on its intended use, the pounds of pull that must be endured, the atmospheric conditions it will be submitted to, the nature of the bonding (dry or lubricated), the thread handling capabilities of the machines, and the put up (size of spool/weight/yardage/meters) you need.

What follows are my own opinions. These may not be in agreement with other people's opinions.

People sewing leather garments, or upholstery, commonly sew with #69 to #92 thread and leather point needles just large enough to pass the thread. They sew at high to very high speeds (1500 to 2000 SPM)

Boot makers use #69 and #138 for construction, as well as #33 and #46 (with tiny needles) for the design stitching. They sew at medium to slow speeds for control.

Soles are sewn on curved needle sole stitcher, using 7 cord or larger, right twist, linen thread, run through a heated or liquid, hardening stitching wax. If one stich wears out, the hardened wax holds the remain nearby stitches in place. The needles are huge.

Belts are typically sewn with #69 (dress), to #138 (work belts), to #277 (police, gunfighter, or weight lifters' belts). Ditto for animal leads and collars. These are usually sewn at medium-high speed (to get 'er done). I like about 10 to 12 stitches per second when sewing straight runs on belts and straps (rifle, guitar), up to about 1/4" total thickness.

Holsters meant for show, not for go, can be sewn with #138 or 207 thread. Slow speed is needed to control the short stitch runs and fast turns in shaped pancake holsters. Duty pancake holsters should have larger thread (at least high quality #207!), top and bottom (see next paragraphs).

Serious holsters, used in competition, Western, or street Police work should have no lighter than #277 thread, top and bottom, but often use #346 bonded nylon, or 5 or 6 cord, left twist, Barbour's Irish Linen thread, run through liquid wax in a wax pot (sewn on a needle and awl harness stitcher). These are sewn slowly, because of the friction caused by a very large needle, loaded with very heavy thread, penetrating 1/2 to 3/4 inch of veg-tan leather or dense Kydex.

The weakest link in any project is the smallest diameter/tensile strength thread. Sewing with #277 on top and #207 on the bottom makes the stitch as strong as the #207 bottom thread. In the event of a life or death struggle for a weapon, you don't want to have it on your conscience that you saved a few dollars on bobbin thread, that cost an officer his life, when the thinner bottom stitches gave out in a struggle and he was shot with his own gun. Heavy thread is cheaper than a Police funeral.

Any thick leather, or Kydex holster should be sewn with the thickest thread your machine can handle. PPC Competition shooters run, roll around on the ground and draw and shoot. Western shooters draw as fast and hard as possible, in outdoor conditions (steel bullet deflectors at the muzzle end are a nice idea for fast draw holsters). Don't skimp on the size of the thread you use in serious holsters and matching gun belts.

Collars, harnesses and leads for big dogs and horses should be sewn with very thick thread (#277 or #346), with turn-back stitches in another inside row, at the buckle and D-Ring areas. Ditto for horse bridles. Some collar makers like to use a skip-a-dee technique instead of turn backs, at Dee-Rings. I also prefer this and my Union Lockstitch machine has a skip-a-dee lever, which feeds more thread for this purpose.

Try to always buy your thread from a known manufacturer, or a company who stands behind the quality, batch to batch, of the thread they sell. When buying thread, it is advisable to purchase two spools at a time, of each color you intend to use. One should feed the machine, the other the bobbin winder.

End my opinions on thread.

[jcatleather]

Thanks Wiz! very helpful.

[CowboyBob]

Since this is the needle section I frequently ask abiout needle points here is a comparison of the D vs S point of Schmetz #1 being the S point & you can see how much finer the needle hole looks .You can plainly see the larger hole in sample#2 that is because there's a cut on the side the S point only make a cut parallel with the line of stitching with alot smaller hole.These were both done w/#277 thread & #25 needle.

Bob