Contact Cement Alternative

[steelhawk]

I had been using my garage workshop to glue my holsters, but it is now too cold for that, according to the temperature limits on the container, 65 degrees. I can't do it inside as my wife is very sensitive to the fumes.

Is there a good alternative to contact cement. Tandy makes a white glue called Leather Weld, but I don't know how it will hold up on a holster.

[husker]

I had been using my garage workshop to glue my holsters, but it is now too cold for that, according to the temperature limits on the container, 65 degrees. I can't do it inside as my wife is very sensitive to the fumes.

Is there a good alternative to contact cement. Tandy makes a white glue called Leather Weld, but I don't know how it will hold up on a holster.

I use some of the white cement from Tandy and have had no issues with it, but I have nothing to compare it to as I've used pretty much only that. I can tell you that the stuff I use does not put off any fumes, can't smell it at all actually is pretty much the same consistancy as Elmers glue.

Edited November 4, 2011 by husker

[marine mp]

What Husker said......Semper-fi Mike

[Dwight]

I cannot speak for the Tandy glue, . . . but Elmer's works pretty good.

Titebond wood glue also works pretty good.

The problem with the glues, . . . they take so long to dry.

You may also want to try some just plain old rubber cement, it will not hold up in the long run like contact cement does, . . . but to just hold it together while you are stitching it, . . . it'll work fine.

Push come shove: use a heat gun, . . . warm your leather with it, . . . put on the contact cement out in the garage, . . . use the heat gun to dry the contact cement, . . . take it back into the house.

I am forced to do that occasionally during the winter if I have a larger project. I haven't had any problems at all with doing it that way. It may make a difference if you are using something else, though, . . . because I only use Weldwood. It works this way.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Shooter McGavin]

White glue isnt water resistant, if that matters in your designs.

[steelhawk]

White glue isnt water resistant, if that matters in your designs.

That's good to know.

I won't use the white stuff on my underwater holsters for glocks.

[Shooter McGavin]

Meh, just wet molding is enough moisture to make it come loose.

[Haystacker]

Leather weld works great. Just follow the instructions. Make sure the glue is dry before wet molding.

[steelhawk]

Thanks, guys. One more question I just thought of. Will the Tandy stuff work on gun belts, too, or should I stick with contact cement on them?

[Shooter McGavin]

Leather weld works great. Just follow the instructions. Make sure the glue is dry before wet molding.

I never tried waiting for it to dry. :brainbleach: I'm going to run a few test pieces. Thanks!

[steelhawk]

I never tried waiting for it to dry. :brainbleach: I'm going to run a few test pieces. Thanks!

That's what I am doing. I have one with contact cement and one with the Tandy glue. I'll let them set overnight.

[Haystacker]

I've tried to separate two pieces of leather that had leather weld. Glue held. The leather actually separated. Leather weld works good on gun belts. The problem that you may have is the leather weld has to be wet when you stick the two pieces together. On large belts that can be tricky.

I really started appreciating leather weld after talking to a saddle maker in Sheridan. HE believes something is causing the poor health problems of old saddle makers. HE supposed it could be fumes from contact cement. (respirator can fix this problem)

Also, I heat me shop with wood. Flammable fumes are my biggest concern.

Everyone has what they like. I have had good experience with the Leather Weld.

Jeff

[MADMAX22]

I have a small space heater in my garage that does pretty good at heating up my working area a little bit, enough to use my glues.

I personally only use two types, the weld wood for most of the smaller stuff. I use 3M 77 spray for all the liners, belts, any applications where I use padding like my rifle slings, other items that I want a quick and easy application and can avoid fine detail glueing. I have use tape to mask off portions to keep from glueing them when using the 77. It does work really well though. I like it for belts because its a second or two of spraying one swipe and about a minute or two of letting it sit then its ready to go together.

[Haystacker]

One thing I forgot to mention about the leather weld. I put weights on the pieces after i stick them together. Usually about 30 to 40 pounds. I let it sit like that for about an hour. For belts I use a long metal ruler and then add weights on top of that for the length of the belt.

When I first saw the John Bianchi western holster makng dvd's I noticed he used a white glue form Tandy. I tried 2 different brands from Tandy. Only the Leather Weld gave me the results I liked.

Edited November 5, 2011 by Haystacker

[Eaglestroker]

I use a woodworkers clamp bolted to my shop table after using whatever glue I choose. Don't clamp it to the point of deforming the leather but I feel it gives the glue a better, more consistent set. It's big enough to clamp almost every holster I make and I use two large boards for anything larger.

I have used it to press two pieces of 6/7oz leather into a welt the thickness of one as well, as a flint holder for a sheath as well. Handy tool but be careful of pressure applied.

[Fredo]

Since I'm always looking for less expensive alternitives I found myself at the local yadage store (Joanns fabrics). I recently tried something called "Quick TacK' (Spelling my be wrong) It's used to glue cloth together. I am having real good luck with this stuff on leather. Fairly cheap at around 4 bucks for a 8 oz bottle.

I also buy my linen thread, brushes, small parts bins etc there. They usualy have a 50% off cupon on line. A great way to pay for high dollar items like a large self healling cutting matt.

[SooperJake]

I never tried waiting for it to dry. :brainbleach: I'm going to run a few test pieces. Thanks!

What did you learn as a result of this testing, Shooter?

Jake

[Northmount]

I have had good success with 3M water based contact cement. No fumes. Fumes from most solvent based glues that contain toululene and such give me an instant headache, so water based contact cement is great!

I haven't tested how waterproof it is after setting, but water will not remove it if you let it set at all. Cleanup with water has to be fast for stuff like brushes.

CTG

[Shooter McGavin]

What did you learn as a result of this testing, Shooter?

Jake

I've decided to stay with contact cement on my holsters, if only for the assembly time factor.

[SooperJake]

North~

what sort of wait time is there before you can assemble? I used to sell Titebond's GreenChoice neoprene (water based) contact cement which dried reasonably fast for a water based product. Never used it on leather though. No VOC's to off-gas.

I've used Weldwood's original (nice and stinky bad for you) for years..it has never failed me. Would like to get away from the chemicals though.

Jake

I have had good success with 3M water based contact cement. No fumes. Fumes from most solvent based glues that contain toululene and such give me an instant headache, so water based contact cement is great!

I haven't tested how waterproof it is after setting, but water will not remove it if you let it set at all. Cleanup with water has to be fast for stuff like brushes.

CTG

[Northmount]

North~

what sort of wait time is there before you can assemble? I used to sell Titebond's GreenChoice neoprene (water based) contact cement which dried reasonably fast for a water based product. Never used it on leather though. No VOC's to off-gas.

I've used Weldwood's original (nice and stinky bad for you) for years..it has never failed me. Would like to get away from the chemicals though.

Jake

Just got the can out to take a look at it. It is actually Lepage Pres-Tite Green contact cement. (Shows how good my memory is!) It lists the drying time as 30 to 40 minutes, or until the milky white turns to clear. I usually leave it only 10 to 15 minutes, then assemble. 475 mL (~ 1 pint) costs about $10.

CTG

[Sparks]

I have been using Tanner's Bond contact cement (old red-label formulation) in my garage. I keep the glue container in the house so it is room temperature. I put space heaters in the garage to warm that up...it likes to stay at 40 degrees this time of year. It never gets anything like warm in the garage, but I still do my gluing out there bacause my wife is also very sensitive to the volatile chemicals. I open the garage doors a little while gluing to avoid a buildup of the vapors so the furnace pilot light doesn't ignite them. After a few minutes I shut the garage door mostly and run the space heaters (they are the oil filled type with no open heating elements). After a pretty short period of time I am able to bring the leather into the house...I put it upstairs and shut the door to finish curing. Seems most of the off-gassing of fumes takes place pretty fast, as my spouse has had no problems with the fumes. I wish I could say how long I leave these in the garage, but I can't remember if it is 30 minutes or two hours...I just go do something else for awhile and then bring them in the house.

[SooperJake]

White glue isnt water resistant, if that matters in your designs.

Titebond III is water proof and works on leather. It's the one from Titebond with the green colored label.