Contact Cement Mess

[Bluesman]

I have been using contact cement on my projects and really want a better way to do this. issues i have are this.

1.) Pull the brush from the quart jar and have to wait for the glue to run down the stem. Otherwise it drips. There is got to be a better way.

2.) Constantly cleaing off the male cap threads. if I don't the next time I need a monkey wrench to open it. Any suggestions.

3.) What is a light coat? I apply it on the flesh side. When I see a color change I got it. Right?

So far I haven's had anything come apart, but just looking for a cleaner more efficient way to use this.

Thanks,

Jon

[Sixer]

I just picked up one of these...

http://springfieldleather.com/16721/Lace%2CBoot%2CBlk%2C1-8%22x108%22/

The length of the brush stem is adjustable, so you can control how far into the actual adhesive it goes. That alone should eliminate some mess.

There are different replacement brush sizes available as well... so that should help you control the amount of glue you apply.

For me, a "light coat" is just that... a light coat. Not really sure how to explain it??

[Bluesman]

I just picked up one of these...

http://springfieldle...C1-8%22x108%22/

The length of the brush stem is adjustable, so you can control how far into the actual adhesive it goes. That alone should eliminate some mess.

There are different replacement brush sizes available as well... so that should help you control the amount of glue you apply.

For me, a "light coat" is just that... a light coat. Not really sure how to explain it??

I saw a guy using that on a You Tube Video and went, that's neat. Now you show were to get it..................................COOL. thanks, i need to put in an order today anyway and that is on the list. Along with extra brush tips. As for light coat, you can't explain it and I can't imagine it, oh well, I'll keep playing around.

Thanks,

Jon

[Spinner]

I saw a guy using that on a You Tube Video and went, that's neat. Now you show were to get it..................................COOL. thanks, i need to put in an order today anyway and that is on the list. Along with extra brush tips. As for light coat, you can't explain it and I can't imagine it, oh well, I'll keep playing around.

Thanks,

Jon

Easy way to explain it, while gross is pretty accurate: looks like you wiped a runny nose on the leather and then didn't clean it before it dried. All you're looking for is a fairly thin & even layer across the surface of the leather. For heavier applications, simply wipe your brush across it again in another thin layer. Wait for the two pieces to get almost 99% dry (both sides should be coated) looking and then press together. If the piece allows for it, a good beating or sandwich between two heavy objects will help form the bond.

[Bluesman]

Easy way to explain it, while gross is pretty accurate: looks like you wiped a runny nose on the leather and then didn't clean it before it dried. All you're looking for is a fairly thin & even layer across the surface of the leather. For heavier applications, simply wipe your brush across it again in another thin layer. Wait for the two pieces to get almost 99% dry (both sides should be coated) looking and then press together. If the piece allows for it, a good beating or sandwich between two heavy objects will help form the bond.

Yup that's how it looks. I wipe in on like snot and then smear it to get an even coat. I should wait longer. I have been waiting until tacky. Then I use a rolling pin. Thanks for the info spinner.

Jon

[benlilly1]

Bluesman, Have you thought of using contact spray adhesive on your items? That's what I use instead of the messy stringy brushes. I get mine from Foam n'More. It has a nice fan pattern when it sprays. I just mask off where I don't want glue.

[Bluesman]

Bluesman, Have you thought of using contact spray adhesive on your items? That's what I use instead of the messy stringy brushes. I get mine from Foam n'More. It has a nice fan pattern when it sprays. I just mask off where I don't want glue.

Thanks. I will have to look into that. Would be the ticket on large pieces for sure.

Thanks

Jon

[Spinner]

Yeah, when it's ready you can set your hand on it and it just feels dry & crusty almost if that sounds right. The rolling pin works well.

Something that might help also is Barge makes a thinner for their glue that helps greatly in getting smoother coverage. It also helps revive that last bit since usually around the 1/3 left in the can mark it starts to thicken.

[Bluesman]

Yeah, when it's ready you can set your hand on it and it just feels dry & crusty almost if that sounds right. The rolling pin works well.

Something that might help also is Barge makes a thinner for their glue that helps greatly in getting smoother coverage. It also helps revive that last bit since usually around the 1/3 left in the can mark it starts to thicken.

wow glad I asked. I've leaned a ton from this thread.

[pete]

Bluesman- HERE'S what you do. Get a plastic coke, sprite, etc bottle-the small size- fill it with barge, etc, punch a nail hole in the top, screw on the top and cover it with a piece of clipped sheep wool. It's the applicator as well as the piece that you stick back on top when you're through. I can go through a whole bottle without thinning it, the applicator keeps most of the air out, and you throw it away when you run out.

Also, keep old and unused credit cards nearby. For big jobs squirt out the glue and use the credit card as a spreader. Chuck them out too or use a hard gum erasure after they dry- I have used the same credit card for 3 years.

pete

[Dwight]

Bluesman, . . . if you can stand it, . . . 2 more tips for you:

1. Don't buy it in any can except the pint size "Weldwood" that is sold in lumber stores, . . . can looks like a paint can, . . . lid comes off with a quarter or a flat blade scredriver, . . . and keep the stinkin' brush away from the mouth of the can.

2. Go to Harbor Freight store or crank up http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=acid+brushes and you can get these. Use em once (several times if you are doing several things on one project) and when they harden up, . . . pitch em in the trash.

.pr-snippet {height:15px;} .price-box {height: 60px!important;} .related-products-name {height: 74px;}

1 MATCHES FOR ''ACID BRUSHES''

• 
  36 Piece 1/2" Horsehair Bristle Acid Shop Brushes
  The little rascals are only 3 bucks a bag, . . . I love em.

AND, . . . always let your contact cement get completely dry to the touch. Actually, I have forgotten about it, . . . next day remembered, . . . put em together, . . . rolled with the old rollin' pin, . . . worked out great. Generally a good 45 minutes works great, . . . but if you have this "hurry up" itch that needs scratched, . . . use a heat gun to dry the glue. Just be careful not to get too close to the leather, . . . and don't stay on one spot too long.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Bluesman]

The thread that just keeps on giving. Thanks Pete.

[Bluesman]

Wow so many tips, this may become a sticky. Thanks Dwight.

[Chief31794]

Dwight,

Not to jump on to a growing thread, but I use Weldwood in the Green Can, it is water based, designed for leather as well as other things and it is nothing like the contact Cement that is gooey ("Good Word") or jelled, it has the consistency and look of Milk, very thin and flows like liquid, cleans up with water is VOC certified and I use an economy paint brush with bristles and use the size I need for the project I'm doing. It works the same way, coat both sides, wait till dry or at least tacky then put them together. It is still one touch and stuck and I've never had anything come apart. I mostly glue linings into purses, etc. It comes in small and quart size cans, I buy the quarts but you could get a small can and try it. It is available at a lot of places including Lowes which is where I get it.

Ken

[Northmount]

Generally one coat is enough. Only on very porous stuff should you use more than one coat. One porous material, if it has lost all it's shine as it dries, you can go over it again.

If you keep the glue brush in a closed container with a quarter inch of solvent in it, the brush doesn't go hard. Take it out when ready to use and clean by wire brushing it from base of bristles to the tip. Sometimes might have to swish it around in some more solvent, then brush it again. I have used an ordinary 1" wide natural bristle paint brush for years this way. Wider brushes of course cover larger areas faster.

CTG

[Dwight]

Dwight,

Not to jump on to a growing thread, but I use Weldwood in the Green Can, it is water based, designed for leather as well as other things and it is nothing like the contact Cement that is gooey ("Good Word") or jelled, it has the consistency and look of Milk, very thin and flows like liquid, cleans up with water is VOC certified and I use an economy paint brush with bristles and use the size I need for the project I'm doing. It works the same way, coat both sides, wait till dry or at least tacky then put them together. It is still one touch and stuck and I've never had anything come apart. I mostly glue linings into purses, etc. It comes in small and quart size cans, I buy the quarts but you could get a small can and try it. It is available at a lot of places including Lowes which is where I get it.

Ken

I just may have to look into that, Ken, . . . my local Lowes doesn't always carry the jell Weldwood (I like it the best), . . . and I suppose I would use less brushes.

Thanks for the tip.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Sparks]

Regarding cleaning the threads on your can lid...I haven't been and yes, I put the glue container (can) in a vice and use channel lock pliers to open the lid. Everytime I do this I wonder if the can is going to fail, but it hasn't so far. I have JUST learned a tip that if it works will be WONDERFUL! Regarding contact cement, put some Vasoline on the can threads to keep the lid from sticking. I can't wait to try this out. Meanwhile, I have received my 16 oz. plastic glue bottle from Springfield Leather.