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Posted (edited)
5 minutes ago, Darren Brosowski said:

One of my toys for a darning machine.

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Its like an aerostitch, only its an aeroeverything. It sews with invisible thread and needles. The feet are as light as air. All some kinda super-secret wonder-woman jet plane technology stuff, made to darn her invisible parachute.....

Edited by TinkerTailor

"If nobody shares what they know, we will eventually all know nothing."

"There is no adventure in letting fear and common sense be your guide"

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Posted
2 hours ago, Darren Brosowski said:

One of my toys for a darning machine.

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That will fix the darn....ing machine missin stitches I reckon. They'll all now miss nice and evenly.

WH.jpgWild Harry - Australian made leather goods
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Posted

At this point it is a cast sewing machine body on a pretty base.

The sharp eyed amongst you have noticed that all of the internals are sitting in the plastic container. It was a Consew 227r that has serious wear issues in some of the feed and walking foot components as well as a stuffed clutch mechanism.

I am converting it to a Seiko CW-1 darning machine where I am making a custom foot lift mechanism.

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Posted

thats pretty cool.

"If nobody shares what they know, we will eventually all know nothing."

"There is no adventure in letting fear and common sense be your guide"

  • 1 year later...
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Posted

I realize this thread is over a year old but I'm hoping someone from this thread (or anybody) will chime in with some advice.  

I've recently dug out my great grandmother's Singer 31-15 which includes the head and the old iron table but no top.  I picked up some really pretty gummy cherry wood that is about 1" thick.  I feel like this might just a bit too thin.   What do you guys think?  

If so, I'm thinking of gluing it up and then gluing it to a 3/4" piece of plywood.   (and then put finish edges on it to cover up the plywood)  I'm feeling like this is the best way to go but looking for opinions...  especially those of experienced woodworkers!  

Thanks

  • 7 months later...
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Posted

Since the topic of tables came up yet again, I thought I'd add my latest DIY effort in table top replacements. This machine came with an abbreviated "L" shaped top which was quite prone to catch larger draping items as they traveled across the surface. I was able to harvest a few desk bridging sections from our engineering dept. when they upgraded all their work stations...its some type of super high density compressed fiber product which comes with a good Formica-type surface and nice edge banding. They are slightly more compact in size at 23-1/2 X 42". I leaned on a friend to cut out a nice aluminum router template on the water jet....  Perfect inletting every time from now on.

-DC

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Machines: Juki LU-563, Consew 206-RB5, Singer 20U33, Pfaff 481, Mitsubishi CU-865-22, Consew 29B, Rebadged Juki LU-562,  Mitsubishi LS2-180,  Seiko SK-6, Juki LG-158-1

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Posted

So many nice tables I now have to redo mine

Posted

That’s a very nice template!!

Posted (edited)

I built a table for a sunken 5-thread Juki MO-816 serger for a client. Not precisely a leather machine, but a rather challenging table to build.

The tabletop and suspended shelf are made of two layers of 3/4" plywood, phenolic and baltic birch plywood, screwed together. The black laser-cut acrylic rings on the suspended shelf keep the machine's rubber feet in place to keep the machine from wandering as you sew.

 

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Edited by Uwe

Uwe (pronounced "OOH-vuh" )

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Posted

Very neat job, albeit a slightly weird design :). You used  lot of screws on that job Uwe.

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

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