Im Having Trouble

[cornbread114]

Burnishing I have read 1400 different techniques on how to accomplish this the ever so elusive two pieces looks like one piece. Thats right no seem. A leather guy here said glue to the edge. You Tube said thats a sin. I want to take my holsters to the next level. I am currently hit and miss. Sometimes looks like one piece other times a seem. So let me pick your brain. My current setup involves a cocobola speed burnisher on a drill. Ive tryed wax,but not burnishing wax. So help me out. Dont mind the grammar Im just a hillbilly from kentucky. Thanks Godbless.

[Ferg]

Access Bob Park's burnishing technique in the archives of this forum. Follow to the letter, you will have no trouble with your edges.

ferg

[DoubleC]

Here's Bobby's link! http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18101

[Tree Reaper]

Quality leather will burnish better.

Use high end products for high end results.

[Dwight]

Bob's method is no doubt top quality, . . . but sometimes for a less expensive rig, . . . pocket holster, . . . something that doesn't have to pass admiral's inspection, . . . there is a quicker and easier way.

FIRST, . . . use a sander of some sort (I use both a Dremel and a 1 inch wide belt sander) to even up all the layers so they lay perfectly flat together.

SECOND, . . . bevel the edges with a SHARP beveler. I cannot overstate this point.

Third, . . . a little water and a couple of home made tools in the end of a Dremel, at about 1500 rpm's, . . . light pressure, . . . side to side, . . . apply until you get the finish you want.

Look in the picture, . . . both are nothing more than hardwood dowel rod, . . . a 1/8th inch drill bit run up through the center and glued in place, . . . and grooves cut with a file and sandpaper, . . . all while rotating the tool in the Dremel.

The grooved one works for straps and single layers, . . . the one with only one shelf looking groove is the one I use the most. I can edge up a holster in all of about 10 minutes with it, . . . which I do twice, . . . before dyeing and just before final finishing. Sometimes I'll come back and "polish" it after final finish just to make it look a tad better.

May God bless,

Dwight

(another Ky product, . . . Olive Hill area)

Edited December 6, 2013 by Dwight

[Cyberthrasher]

Sanding is a must. With two layers of leather that may be different and have the grains oriented in different directions, you've got to get them matched up. Following Bob's method will get you there, then you can experiment and find your own variation that fits your process. There's actually another topic just below this which has another method we're testing. It's the same, just different products being used. That said, you may not always get a 100% invisible pairing. You may ask "how does everybody else get one every time". Well, a lot of those people don't, they use edge coatings that hide the edge instead of actually doing a good durable and slick edge. But, if done right, you will never FEEL a seam there, you just may see a hair line where the two leathers meet.

[chiefjason]

Might be the wax. What wax are you using?

I use several different things depending on what I'm doing and what I want out of it. Liquid saddle soap works well. If it's larger pieces that I can dunk I've got a mix of liquid saddle soap, water, a splash of neatsfoot oil, and a splash of bleach. If I need to touch up a spot I'll use one of two wax mixtures. One is 50/50 beeswax and neatsfoot oil by weight. The other is 50/50 beeswax and paraffin by weight.

I've completely stepped away from gum trag.

One thing to keep in mind. You can put in the work on the front end prepping it or the back end fixing it, but you will put in the work somewhere. I square the edges with a sanding drum. I wet edge my stuff a lot of times. I seem to get more of a rounded edge and less of a shoulder. A sharp edger is important and you want the edge damp, not wet. I hand sand all my holster edges as a final step before dying. For holsters I start with straight liquid saddle soap and a cocobolo burnisher. Touch up with wax as needed.

And yes, we've all got our quirky different ways of doing things.

[Jeff L]

Seeing as you are using a cocobolo burnisher like I do I will share my 2 cents worth. After sanding edges smooth with 220 or higher I use saddle soap on the edges then burnish with the cocobolo thingy on a dremel I use it about 10,000 rpm. I then rub on a mix of 50/50 beeswax and parrafin that I melted together and formed in ice cube trays. Then go over it again with the burnisher. Heat is the key. You want to produce enough heat from the friction to melt in the waxes into the edges. Simple, and quick.

[Nuttish]

Also, some retanned leather simply won't burnish at all because it contains so much fat and wax and may even be stretchy.

Basic question: what kind of leather are you using :-)

[BondoBobCustomSaddles]

One last thing, there is something that I do that gets me a long way towards having all layers even. I try to make sure that there is extra material out past where I want the edge to be, on all layers and then after stitching, I trim them to the desired edge together. Then I use Bob Parks' method to burnish. Like Jason says, you are going to put the work in, either in front or afterward. Might as well do it up front. Someone once told me, find the guy that gets the results you want, then, do it the way he does it. Personally, look at Bob Parks' work, or Keith Siedels' work. That's the way I want my work to look.

Just my two cents.

Bob

[cornbread114]

Guys thank you so much. It has been a great help. Someone asked about leather. I use herman oak 8 to 10 oz.

Guys thank you so much. It has been a great help. Someone asked about leather. I use herman oak 8 to 10 oz.