Members paprhangr Posted December 25, 2013 Members Report Posted December 25, 2013 Is a "Stitch Ditch" needed to protect the thread from wear, when sewing borders on belts, guitar & bag straps? Quote
Members camano ridge Posted December 25, 2013 Members Report Posted December 25, 2013 (edited) You can do the stitching without a groove, however it puts the stitching above the surface of the leather and exposes it to friction, abrasion and more contact then it would have otherwise. There are some that stitch without a groove then hammer the stitches flat. Edited December 25, 2013 by camano ridge Quote https://www.facebook.com/CamanoRidgeCustomLeather?fref=ts
electrathon Posted December 25, 2013 Report Posted December 25, 2013 Very little that we make needs to have the stitches protected from abrasion. Compare what you are making to comercially produced items, most do just fine with the stitches on the surface. It really is more of an apearance issue than anything. Quote
Members GrampaJoel Posted December 25, 2013 Members Report Posted December 25, 2013 I use this test to determine whether or not I need a stitch groove. Is the stitching going to be subject to wear? If yes, then stitch groove. Is the leather thick enough to cut a stitch groove? If yes,, then cut groove. Is the leather veg tan or of another tannage, and meets above standards. Stitch groove. However I usually only groove veg tan leather, as most others are pretty soft. Any other leather is usually to soft, and the stitches settle into soft leather pretty good by themselves. Joel Quote
Matt T Posted December 25, 2013 Report Posted December 25, 2013 Plus, you are removing the strongest leather under the stitch by creating that channel... Quote Leathercraft supplies
Members Cyberthrasher Posted December 25, 2013 Members Report Posted December 25, 2013 Belts will benefit from a groove since they get worn down by the belt loops on our pants and can run into things. Guitar straps don't necessarily need one as long as the stitching is clean. For bag straps, make a judgement call based on where the strap is and how it will be used. Quote hellhoundkustoms.wordpress.com www.facebook.com/hellhoundkustoms www.etsy.com/shop/HellhoundKustoms
Members Matt S Posted December 25, 2013 Members Report Posted December 25, 2013 With a pricking iron the stitches semi-recess themselves. Quote
Members Red Cent Posted December 26, 2013 Members Report Posted December 26, 2013 I need a visual guide to get a straight or a continous round curve. But I am going to stop using the groove cutter. 'Course, I say this because I use a machine. I am starting to use a good creaser instead. Especially with things that need to be wet formed. The additional stress buries the threads further into the leather. Using 8-9 outer with a 4-5 liner, the thread will bury itself without a groove but with a slight crease. Quote https://www.facebook.com/redcentcustomleather?ref=bookmarks http://www.redcentcustomleather.com/
Members WScott Posted December 26, 2013 Members Report Posted December 26, 2013 I use this test to determine whether or not I need a stitch groove. Is the stitching going to be subject to wear? If yes, then stitch groove. Is the leather thick enough to cut a stitch groove? If yes,, then cut groove. Is the leather veg tan or of another tannage, and meets above standards. Stitch groove. However I usually only groove veg tan leather, as most others are pretty soft. Any other leather is usually to soft, and the stitches settle into soft leather pretty good by themselves. Joel This is a great set of rules for stitching, thanks for posting it. In softer leather like CXL, I do a line with blunt calipers or edger with pressure so as to compress and mark but not remove the top layer. Then follow the compressed line with a diamond chisel and off to the races with stitching Quote
Members paprhangr Posted December 26, 2013 Author Members Report Posted December 26, 2013 Thanks for all comments, keep n comin, good for learn n I used a Groover then when I got a little off the gap showed,wouldn't have showed soo bad if I had grooved before dye. I like the advise using the creaser to help depress the thread and have guide line And just stitch without. I am a new sew machine user and going to give the edge guide foot to keep me sewing straight Quote
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