Dwight Report post Posted August 19, 2014 There is always a "first time" for everything, . . . but I've never had much trouble with contact cement in cementing leather together. When I do, I simply add another light coat to the side that is causing difficulty. BUT, . . . I only use the contact cement to hold it while I'm manipulating it, . . . cutting it, . . . sanding it, . . . etc. The stitches and/or rivets are what I rely on to hold it together. Try a couple of pieces of scrap, . . . that will answer your question. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oldtoolsniper Report post Posted August 19, 2014 Oil resists glue. Test what you are doing first. Contact cement won't stick to oily surfaces. When making a countertop the adhesive of choice is red can weld bond contact cement. Oil on the substrate means you get to make a new countertop because the glue WILL fail. Test it, test it, test it! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Turn n Burn Report post Posted August 24, 2014 I have been using Lepage low odour as i do most of my work when my son goes to bed and don't want the fumes in the house. I had some weldbond and used it when i ran out of Lepage and don't really like it takes to long and cracks sounding when flexed seems to hold but wouldn't want a customer hearing a piece cracking. Havnt seen weld wood red in Canada will keep my eye out for it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
silverwingit Report post Posted August 25, 2014 I use Weldwood all the time for vegtan and chrome tan with mineral spirits for thinner ( a bit more friendly than acetone, IMO). In my experience using Weldwood with chrome tan is much the same as it is with vegtan. You need to abrade the surfaces where you will apply the glue, else it will not hold well, just peeling off if the layers of leather when the are pulled apart. [This can be useful at times where the strength of hold isn't paramount. NB: Weldwood can also be rubbed off in areas of "overshoot" with a finger or an eraser if it isn't allowed to dry completely.] I've not had Weldwood dissolve or peel the finish off of a chrome tan leather, but I have only used a couple dozen different chrome tan leathers. I'd recommend it for chrome tan without hesitation, just as I would with vegtan. Weldwood contact adhesive is inexpensive, readily available, easily and safely thinned and very effective for use with all the types of leather I've encountered. Works for me! Michelle Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
silverwingit Report post Posted August 30, 2014 Greaser13 - A contact-adhesive readiness test I learned from one of Chuck Burrows DVDs (Wild Rose Trading Company) is to look to see whether your coat of CA is shiny when set (both side to be cemented). If not, apply another coat and repeat. Some leathers absorb CA more than others and a uniform layer of adhesive on both surfaces to be joined is necessary to promote a successful, durable bond. After that, you should still plan on stitching the pigskin lining to the primary leather. Saddle and chap makers use oil-tanned leather all the time with no special treatment other than a good foundation of contact adhesive. Michelle Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northmount Report post Posted August 31, 2014 CA normally refers to cyanoacrylate glue, super glue. So be careful using shorthand like CA for contact adhesive. I had to re-read the previous post a couple times to understand what was being said. Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
StrigaMort Report post Posted August 31, 2014 (edited) I was gonna say the same thing. I work with cyanoacrylate often. You definitely don't want to confuse the two. Might call it CC, contact cement instead. Edited August 31, 2014 by StrigaMort Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SlammySammy Report post Posted January 18, 2017 Thanks for all the great advice everyone. I will have to try using the Woodweld. I currently use Pliobond 25 and it's a similar contact cement that I picked up at Ace Harware store. It works very well if clamped and let to cure for 5 min. I've only started making Wallets but need something with a finer applicator that allows me to put down a nice bead. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregspitz Report post Posted January 18, 2017 for watch straps wallet and belts I use Masters..sets up fast holds tight and sewing through it is great. you HAVE to thin it with their thinner.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sceaden Report post Posted January 31, 2017 So I guess I have an odd wife then as she likes the smell of Original Weldwood. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pirate305 Report post Posted July 8, 2017 Weldwood is the best so far. It's inexpensive and goes a long way. I have never needed to thin it down, just use a small brush for the little spots. put a dab on both pieces let it sit till it stops shining and put your pieces together and clamp with either wood or heavy leather between clamps. And if your worried about some squeezing out and gluing the wood or heavy leather to your piece, just put wax paper on both sides. Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DuncanSinclair Report post Posted July 8, 2017 I've been using Barge, but once my supply runs out, I may consider this: http://sorrellnotionsandfindings.com/product/aquilim-325/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites