Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • Members
Posted

I use the end grain of a cedar 4"X6" post. It gives plenty of support, yet soft enough to prevent damage to a punch.

  • Replies 32
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • Members
Posted

I cannot see how using anything apart from another piece of leather can be good for keeping a sharp edge

Leather as a back stop brings the punch to a controlled stop gently, all the others Poly, wood or Lead have little give and certainly less than leather. Run your knife over a poly board and how far does it go in the same with lead and wood, yet it cuts through leather with the same force, so to me leather makes the best stop and the easiest to renew

Then again maybe i'm missing something

Mi omputer is ot ood at speeling , it's not me

  • Members
Posted
On 3/22/2018 at 3:25 AM, chrisash said:

I cannot see how using anything apart from another piece of leather can be good for keeping a sharp edge

Leather as a back stop brings the punch to a controlled stop gently, all the others Poly, wood or Lead have little give and certainly less than leather. Run your knife over a poly board and how far does it go in the same with lead and wood, yet it cuts through leather with the same force, so to me leather makes the best stop and the easiest to renew

Then again maybe i'm missing something

The lead is softer than you think it is, and does make for a good backstop. That being said, lead is a very dangerous material and I wouldn't recommend it for use anywhere other than bullets and fishing sinkers. Considering the toxicity of a number of other products we work with, it would seem to me a better idea to try and reduce our exposure and not use toxic metals.

Scrap leather does a fine job, and is a by-product of the project you just made so it's not like you have to go out of your way to get more. If one layer isn't thick enough, use several.

--

I don't suffer from insanity, I enjoy every minute!

www.rogueleather.com

  • 1 year later...
  • Members
Posted

Lead is going to be absorbed into the leather project if it comes in contact with a lead block.  That means anyone handling the project afterwards will be coming in contact with the contaminants. Lead exposure occurs through inhalation, ingestion and absorption through the skin.  Children and pregnant women are at higher risk then men, but lead can accumulate and be stored in your body for up to 30 years.  Using a lead block when punching holes is likely to only be a minor exposure concern, however, if you do enough of it, over time you could end up with a significant chronic lead exposure.  After spending 30 years in the hazardous materials consulting field, I would discourage using a lead block as a base for leather working.

IMO, a softwood stump, or better yet a soft hardwood stump, such as a large diameter piece of aspen firewood, placed on end, with a piece of heavy leather on top of it is the best choice. 

  • Members
Posted (edited)

Since I no longer had a lead block I used an old magazine as a temporary measure, and it worked very well. That was years ago, and I'm still doing it. I just replace them when they get worn

Edited by zuludog
  • Members
Posted

for me it's certainly lead.To make some holes for rivets or anything like ,there is no risk of contamination .

time does not respect what is done without it

https://tradisign.blogspot.com

https://www.instagram.com/tradisign/

 

  • Members
Posted

1/3rd of the gravestone I use for a granite tooling slab is covered with a thick piece of scrap veg-tan 12-14 oz. Contact cement REALLY holds when applied correctly.

I think of Chinese food when I think of life;
That's sweet and sour.
My life is sweet as saccharin.

Ye Scurvy Dog.   Swords, Weapons, Dungeon Furniture, Custom Leather Work, and More...

  • 1 year later...
  • Members
Posted

anyone know of a cheap solution you can buy at your local walmart/homedepot/ hobylobby preferably under 10$

  • Members
Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, StickHer said:

anyone know of a cheap solution you can buy at your local walmart/homedepot/ hobylobby preferably under 10$

IF you have a solid backing underneath it . . . the white cutting boards sold in housewares are good.  

AND they are cheap.  They will get marked up a bit after several month's use . . . simply flip em over and use the other side.

They're also cheap to replace.

Lay it on a piece of marble or granite . . . and whack away.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited by Dwight

If you can breathe, . . . thank God.

If you can read, . . . thank a teacher.

If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran.

www.dwightsgunleather.com

  • CFM
Posted
6 hours ago, StickHer said:

anyone know of a cheap solution you can buy at your local walmart/homedepot/ hobylobby preferably under 10$

about a six inch end piece of a log or a 4x4 . for free at a construction site of lumber yard

Worked in a prison for 30 years if I aint shiny every time I comment its no big deal, I just don't wave pompoms.

“I won’t be wronged, I won’t be insulted, and I won’t be laid a hand on. I don’t do these things to other people, and I require the same from them.” THE DUKE!

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...