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dikman

Treadle refurb.

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It's looking a lot better than the yucky grey that it was painted when I bought it! Still have to get some gold paint for the lettering (local hardware store didn't have any so I'll have to go farther afield). I know it's not necessary picking out the name in gold, but it just seems the right thing to do.

I made a replacement pivot screw for the main wheel axle and re-welded the broken stub onto the footplate. After much tossing around of ideas, I machined a sleeve to fit the stub and welded a square bar to it. The pitman rod has a ball joint at the end and there was no obvious (read:easy) way to adapt it to the square bar so I cut the rod halfway, made a connecting sleeve and made a new lower section with a thread on it, this gives me plenty of adjustment if needed. Bolted it all together and it works great!!! I just have to machine a replacement screw for the front belt guide sometime, as this had been snapped off.

58ba20cbc2754_Treadle1a.jpg.07de7b63860875d6bfdc400793cdc492.jpg58ba20e4775b6_Treadle2a.jpg.30d491fe996c12b3fb009027abe58bf1.jpg58ba20f4530b7_Treadle3a.jpg.b436253dbf647dbad987b4837c47218f.jpg58ba2102abb87_Treadle4a.jpg.577aa1789b1f461deaf4dd69d9d1a348.jpg

Next thing is a table. I have an old one off another machine, but it has lots of holes and a large belt slot. I'll thinking I'll fill in the belt slot and holes, and then glue a new piece of laminate on top to cover it all. My original intention was to fit the 111W117 that I just bought, but that has a longer base than my other machines so won't fit this treadle assemble without a lot of messing around. The other Singers all have the more normal base size so will be a drop-in fit on the table. As to which machine, I first thought the straight stitch 331K4, but then thought of the 211G166 - I think a walking foot would be nice on it. I had intended to re-fit the clutch/pulley arrangement that came with it, but after thinking about it I can't see any point, I reckon I'll just keep it simple.

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Nice work. Looks great!

Regards, Eric 

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That’s a really nice-looking way to make a 2-piece pitman rod.  It’s a lot nicer than the one that I came up with.  Looks good!

But, I’m wondering if operating a Singer 211G166 walking foot machine in this stand will put too much stress on the re-welded stub?

CD in Oklahoma

 

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Hey, you did a great job! Keep posting, it's interesting to see the steps!

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cd, I'm not too worried about the weld, BUT I have been wondering if the 166 might be a bit much for the treadle, given the driving wheel is only 12". You have more experience with this sort of thing than me, and my gut feeling now is that yeah, it may not be the best choice. That was why I wanted to fit the 117 as it's a lighter duty walking foot. Thinking about it, if I make new spacers to shift the two upright legs away from the centre section (that holds all the working bits of the treadle) I can widen it enough to fit the longer base of the 117. I'll have to use nuts and bolts through the spacers, as the original bolts will be too short, but that could work, as I only need a bit under 1'' more each side. More measuring required - and lathework.

Anyhow, this is the table top I've got to work with, there's a hinge piece that fits on the left to give more workspace.

58bb3a244ca59_Treadle5a.jpg.9e7f6798e50b997d44a0c85b69df1d33.jpg

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After measuring things, I realised that only the left hand leg would have to be moved and would require nearly 3" spacers! I didn't feel comfortable with that, so decided to leave it as is which would give me a choice of five machines which would fit the table. A relative gave me some assorted laminate pieces some time ago, so I dug them out and found a nice imitation granite - unfortunately it must have been very old as everything I tried to cut it with caused cracks/splits/edge chips.There was another piece which seemed to cut ok so I used that. In the photo it looks pinkish, but that's the camera, it's actually an off-white with faint darker random patterning and doesn't look too bad. I have to get a guided router/laminate bit tomorrow, however, as I don't have anything that will let me cut out the curved bits for the machine cutout (it keeps chipping!!). I'll also get the gold paint and some synthetic "belt" to replace the leather stuff.

Trickiest part will be locating where to cut the holes in the table for the belt.

58bb911e763ac_Treadle6a.jpg.a05d5bf81b414f410583d2d4e558cd23.jpg

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Put some painters tape on before you cut, rout, or drill.   It will help laminates to chip less.

Bill

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I once made up a treadle stand with a 111w100 needlefeed for an Amish customer that wanted it to sew belts & it didn't treadle real easy sewing the belts.Your 211 will have a smaller pulley & might work better.

That stand came out real nice!

Edited by CowboyBob

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The "laminate trimmer bits" with a ball bearing guide do an excellent job. The important thing to remember is to carefully inspect the inner edges of the hole which will act as the guide for your cutter, since it will duplicate any defects present. An automotive body filler such as "Bondo" does an excellent job. I much prefer the older plywood from salvaged tables for my own stuff, as there is no comparison between the older higher-density plywood and the pressed rubbish being sold now.

-DC

Juki_Table_Before.jpg

Juki_Table_After.jpg

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Not finished yet but I put the 166 on it to try it out. Two things quickly became apparent - I need a lot of practice to get the hang of treadling, and the heavy mechanicals in the 166 might be too much for the treadle (at least until I become much more proficient!). I think I'll put the 331K4 straight stitcher on it for now.

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Here is another option for squeezing an industrial size machine onto an domestic treadle. Photos and idea with permission of Bruce Day. Simple axle and sheeves move the drive outside of the the frame

More Pictures at https://sites.google.com/site/oldironmachines/home/bruce-days-treadle-mod

 Sorry about the huge pictures ...

Lee

 

 

37RHR9z.jpg

 

q13xxZh.jpg

 

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Interesting link, Lee, that guy's pretty serious!

Anyhow, nearly finished - I think.

58be3d4665734_Treadle7a.jpg.ef7f731140b504f966367e5982fe17ea.jpg

Works much easier with the 331K4. One minor drawback with this setup is that the needle is almost in line with the left hand leg, so I tend to sit a bit funny at the table. I'm also thinking that a larger handwheel (and pulley) might make it easier to use.

58be3d5cbcb14_Treadle8a.jpg.62e686f38f386795952c001ee7596149.jpg

Have to fit the drip tray, paint the edges of the table and fit the drop-down part on the left side of the table (not really necessary but it was already fitted to the original table). And a spool holder. And a light of some sort. I've decided I don't like the little steel wheels on it, everything shakes and vibrates when I move it!! I'm thinking of a couple of wooden bearers under the feet with some casters/wheels, but I'm going to have to off-set the casters otherwise it will raise it too much (I think Uwe did something similar).

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Your rig is looking good dikman.  You might try learning to treadle with just your right foot.  That’s how I operate all of my treadles.  My wife is learning to operate her Singer 78-3 needle-feed to do straight-line quilting with just her right foot, and has been having good luck.  Of course, she’s just sewing through cotton layers with it, so there’s very little resistance.  The ease and smoothness of about any treadle rig will depend upon the material being sewn.  I sew mostly wovens and vinyls with my treadles, and they work great for that.  Sewing a zipper into a pair of leather shotgun chaps was stiffer-going than sewing zippers into insulated overalls, although still very do-able.  

During my experimentation, my Singer 111W153 treadled very nicely in my Singer industrial treadle, until I put a couple of pieces of belt-thickness veg-tanned leather under the foot, then I had to push so hard that I was afraid that I was going to break something.  The density of the material that you’re driving your needle through will make a big difference to the ease of the operation.  The size of the needle will make a difference too, of course.

I like the looks of Bruce’s Singer 31-15 household treadle that Lee posted.  Thanks Lee.  The only treadle rig using an industrial head in a household stand that I have is the 78-3 mentioned above.  I have one Singer industrial treadle that has a household flywheel in it that I used for a while to power my Singer 16-41, and liked the way that it operated.  For my kind of work, I think that the smaller flywheel is a benefit to slower speed without losing too much power.  I ran out of room to have all of my treadles set up, the top on this treadle was not too good, so I switched the 16-41 into a regular Singer industrial treadle stand that used to hold my 31-15 roller foot machine.

CD in Oklahoma

 

Machine407C_41.jpg

Machine604_10.jpg

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Thanks CD. One problem I have is that the handwheel is too small. None of my other handwheels will fit, as they have a 1/2" bore and the shaft on this machine is actually slightly larger than 1/2". I have a few options - bore out one of the handwheels to fit this shaft (but then it wouldn't fit anything else), find a suitable steel disc and turn a handwheel to bolt onto the existing wheel, likewise with a piece of aluminium, cast an aluminium handwheel or turn one from wood and bolt it to the pulley. I'm going to have to give this some thought.

I've also come to the conclusion that this setup will only be suitable for cloth and/or light garment leather - no big deal really.

(I just saw an old White treadle machine for sale for $100. It has a bigger drive wheel and would be nice to play with, but I'm not game to say anything to my wife!!!).

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5 minutes ago, dikman said:

Thanks CD. One problem I have is that the handwheel is too small. None of my other handwheels will fit, as they have a 1/2" bore and the shaft on this machine is actually slightly larger than 1/2". I have a few options - bore out one of the handwheels to fit this shaft (but then it wouldn't fit anything else), find a suitable steel disc and turn a handwheel to bolt onto the existing wheel, likewise with a piece of aluminium, cast an aluminium handwheel or turn one from wood and bolt it to the pulley. I'm going to have to give this some thought.

I've also come to the conclusion that this setup will only be suitable for cloth and/or light garment leather - no big deal really.

(I just saw an old White treadle machine for sale for $100. It has a bigger drive wheel and would be nice to play with, but I'm not game to say anything to my wife!!!).

Greatest_Fear.jpg.a321c64c3499b92fe08335d5e52ea391.jpg

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This is pretty well the finished product (other than making the bearers to fit under the little wheels, may take some time).

58c129277ee88_Treadle9a.jpg.d17aac1a384d40761448b2cfc242b943.jpg

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Now I just have to learn to treadle!!

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Looks good.  Nice job.

CD in Oklahoma

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@dikman

Your thread inspires me to hunt down my own treadle iron stand :rockon:

 

Edited by patria

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Kewl! Does that machine sew in reverse? I like that fold down you added! Push that metal on the treadle!!!! Whoo hoo!

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I wish, but i have checked the place high and low, not a glimpse of sign on old treadle stand, i do found old domestic pfaff and butterlfly heads though

Sometimes old cast treadle stand (with head) pop up on the local listing site , but recently have no luck on it yet

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Suzelle, that one has reverse on it. The machine was free (!), someone was giving it away, it cost me $25 for a replacement shuttle race (very worn), a can of paint for the baseplate and  about $17, I think, for the roller wheel. Haven't sewn much with it yet, I only got it 'cos it was free :rolleyes:.

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10 hours ago, dikman said:

Suzelle, that one has reverse on it. The machine was free (!), someone was giving it away, it cost me $25 for a replacement shuttle race (very worn), a can of paint for the baseplate and  about $17, I think, for the roller wheel. Haven't sewn much with it yet, I only got it 'cos it was free :rolleyes:.

Free! Well you have to put a little bit of $ into that one then! The shape of the reverse lever is is different, looks like a silver button. Do you push it in to go reverse, or does it move up and down in a slot? I've seen those in pictures of machines and wondered about how they work.

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That big lever below the stitch adjuster wheel, just push it down (same as most lever-operated reverse).

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15 hours ago, dikman said:

That big lever below the stitch adjuster wheel, just push it down (same as most lever-operated reverse).

Okay Dikman, Thanks! Okay, the big lever, duh! Got fixeted on the silver button thing, it's cute!

Hey, look at this nice table: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SINGER-industrial-commercial-sewing-machine-31-15-TABLE-WITH-MOTOR-ONLY-/262867629130?hash=item3d3421b44a:g:qOEAAOSw4DJYfDRs

I think it's a steal at just under $100, located in "Mechanicsburg" Pennsylvania. Appropriate! It's a lovely table design, old Commercial iron table, straight leg design. Good thing I don't live there, I'd have to swing on over and pick it up! :)

Edited by suzelle

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