Table type for a cylinder arm machine?

[Northmount]

Snip: One thing I will do in the future is the same thing but put a removable extension piece so when I dont want an extra 2 feet I put it away on a shelf. 

Or make a hinged drop leaf so it is self storing.

Tom

[Hillbilly tim]

1 hour ago, northmount said:

Or make a hinged drop leaf so it is self storing.

Tom

+1

[chuckgaudette]

I have a PFAFF 335. I use a table like this and a detachable flat bed accessory made by Uwe. Works well. I have the open space under the arm for making bags. When I need a flat bed the Uwe one attaches in seconds.

Chuck

[MADMAX22]

2 hours ago, northmount said:

Snip: One thing I will do in the future is the same thing but put a removable extension piece so when I dont want an extra 2 feet I put it away on a shelf. 

Or make a hinged drop leaf so it is self storing.

Tom

Or that, only issue is Im a bigger guy and my left leg sticks over where the drop leaf would normally hang on that style. 

[dikman]

Once I got the idea into my head, I chopped the table! Took just under 2 hrs, so a fairly easy job.

Only downside is I lost my parts drawer, but I can live with that. I could put in a cutout, like in Chuck's photo above, and perhaps cut off a couple of inches or so from the back so it's not quite so deep, but at this stage I'm happy with just the smaller size. If I decide to keep it as is I might fit some beading around the edges, just to make it look neater (the front laminate was missing when I bought it).

[LumpenDoodle2]

1 hour ago, dikman said:

Once I got the idea into my head, I chopped the table! Took just under 2 hrs, so a fairly easy job.

Only downside is I lost my parts drawer, but I can live with that. I could put in a cutout, like in Chuck's photo above, and perhaps cut off a couple of inches or so from the back so it's not quite so deep, but at this stage I'm happy with just the smaller size. If I decide to keep it as is I might fit some beading around the edges, just to make it look neater (the front laminate was missing when I bought it).

I did that with my flatbed, and was about to do the same with my Juki cylinder.    The thing about all that surface space is that I keep sweeping things off the table when sewing a belt or rifle scabbard.   I also considered cutting down the Juki table frame to make it even narrower, but that seemed an awful lot of metal cutting.

I then had a cunning plan.    I have just bought a folding workbench (rated at 200kg), and plan to remove the wooden surface from the workbench.   With the 'jaws' opened as far as possible, I'll bolt on the greatly cut down sewing machine tabletop.   That way the only major setup will be the footpedals, and I already have a good idea about how they will be fitted.

If it all works, yippeee!!   If not, I'll move to plan B (whatever that is).

[dikman]

Sounds like a plan (I think), LD. Post some photos if it works. And yes, cutting and welding the bars to narrow the table seemed like too much trouble.

One problem I've found with having "normal" size tables is that I keep piling stuff on them when I'm not using them!!!!!!!!!

[LumpenDoodle2]

7 minutes ago, dikman said:

Tne problem I've found with having "normal" size tables is that I keep piling stuff on them when I'm not using them!!!!!!!!!

That is sadly the fate of all flat surfaces

[LumpenDoodle2]

Been busy making a table today, as I managed to get a big slab of granite for a new stamping surface.  

I've also added a very poor picture of my Juki cylinder arm table made from a fold up workbench.   No doubt some will think the pedals are in a weird position, but being a shortstop, they feel really good to use.

sorry about mess, just finished building stuff and not had time to clean up yet.

Edited April 25, 2017 by LumpenDoodle2

[Evo160K]

Here's one with wheels that works with a bench stool standing or sitting.