Broken Singer 31K32

[torrbuidhe]

Thanks Bob and Eric (and everybody else). It's good it's not too serious, I didn't want to keep the machine only for it to fail after a bit of use.

It sounds like the repairs not too critical, I can't braze but I could manage screws, dowels and epoxy. I'm sure I can find someone to braze iron up here, though not somebody with any experience of sewing machines.

I'll have to see what happens with ebay and the seller, the cheap option looks better unless I can get a refund to spend on repairs.

Thanks for finding the bobbin winder Constabulary, it looks like the right one. I'll be using the machine with a motor so I don't need the winder, but I wanted to keep it for possible future use. I'll get back to you when I hear from ebay.

 

Neil

 

[dikman]

Considering it went from Berlin to Scotland, in a cardboard box (!), I'd say you're lucky that's all that broke!!!

I'm sure you could find someone who can braze it, might not look too pretty and the heat will affect the paint finish a bit but at least the repair will be out of sight.

[Diyer]

As this is an old machine, presumably it was originally used with a treadle. If you are using a motor, if it was a servomotor, there would be much less vibration. Any of the machines I have bought have had some screws etc. put in with an impact driver, so as to resist the vibrations caused by a clutch motor.

From what is visible, you could possibly find out what the thread size and pitch is by measuring.Line boring is going to be expensive.The ease or not of a welded or brazed repair will depend on whether the material is cast iron or cast steel. That is going to be either a lab test or there are some DIY methods.

[HENDREFORGAN]

I don't want to sound defeatist but welding or brazing may not work, we had a similar thing happen on our early 20 C Singer 136w 104 post stitcher.  The trimming blade works off the side shafts and is held by a casting which, ending in a cleft, is held tight by pressure from a large machine screw.  One too many adjustments meant that, after many decades of load, the casting broke and right through where the bolt went too . . not unlike yours.

I asked an engineer friend to braze it - he's good at that - but that repair lasted barely days.  So I had another engineering friend TiG weld it with the correct welding rod - he's good at that - but the repair only lasted a few weeks.  In both cases the welded seam simply came apart along the original line . . the damn lump of cast iron simply refused to be stuck back together and accept even limited load.

Finally I had one of my engineering pals above machine up a whole new replacement in steel but, and do note this with your own Singer, he found he simply couldn't find the exact thread pitch to match the original machine screw . . my new piece has an M8 hex key headed machine screw instead.

So what I'm saying is that of all the above the repair you should try first is the drill and tap physical plugs that permit the original break line to sit back together tight . . if that fails you can still try welding and/or brazing . . but once you start with those if the repair fails you'll be further away from what you wish than you want.

[Evo160K]

It might be useful to mention that having insurance on a package doesn't automatically mean you will collect.  An antique fan collector friend received one recently through FedEx that was broken, FedEx refused the claim stating the fan was improperly packed.  The pictures obviously showed it was badly packed.  The buyer and the seller worked it out between them.  So the morale of the story is, the shipper needs to be fully aware the item must be packed properly....insurance apparently doesn't cover negligence on the part of the seller.

[Constabulary]

Absolutely agree with EVO!!!

As I said in an earlier thread - its easy to blame the shipping Co. but most of the time it is the sellers fault who poorly packs up this kind of heavy stuff.

I just bought a Singer head from southern Germany and told the seller to use 40mm styrofoam plates on all sides. He used just 30mm styrofoam plates (10mm less make a difference) and the machine feet punched through 30mm styrofoam on the bottom side. If he doubled the plates on the bottom side (as he did on all other sides) it would have been fine. He also did not stuff the space enough and even used air pillows (does not make much sense for heavy items). So even when you tell people how to they often do not listen or think they know better or think their packaging is sufficient. Machine fortunately arrived undamaged but the packaging was not properly done for a heavy sewing machine head.

Shipping small and / or lightweight stuff is easy (most of the times) but shipping heavy things or larger things that can easily break can be a challenge. Styrofoam flakes and air pillows are nice but are totally nonsense for heavy items like sewing machines.

[gottaknow]

My favorite packing material is fabric inside a wood crate. I do of course have an endless supply of 26oz..wool which is ideal. 

As for the broken cast iron, I've been brazing it for almost 40 years. The mistake most people make is trying to do a continuous seam with lots of heat and a large tip, (like a number 2). I use a number 0 tip concentrating on strategic points along the break. I cut a V along the fracture as well as short ones across the break. I also braze cast using less oxygen than you would for brazing steel. Usually 5psi on the acetylene and 7psi on the oxygen. That way you don't blow the molten rod out of the puddle. As soon as it flows remove the heat and let it cool.  

Regards, Eric 

[CowboyBob]

I'm with Eric & have welded probably well over 100 machines over the years & don't know of any failures yet,with proper gringing & pre-heating a weld will hold.I've only brazed small parts & use nickle rod on cast.When using nickle rod it's best to peen it as it cools & try to let it cool slowly or it will break the bond of the weld & cast.

 

[torrbuidhe]

Hi everybody, 

the machine was made in Scotland in 1929 and the journey back home nearly killed it. That's over 1400 miles from Berlin, though as Constabulary said it wasn't packed for any sort of journey at all. It's an ebay purchase so I'll see where I get with them.

There are almost no industrial machines that turn up in northern Scotland, just an odd standard flatbed Brother or equivalent over the years

Do I understand you right Bob, you're saying it would work even without reattaching the broken piece? I'll look for somebody to braze in together anyway, can't guarantee I'll find somebody willing to do it though. People repairing iron up here will be doing engine blocks and implement seats. If I find somebody I'll show them this thread. Epoxy and screws is still a possibility though.

I presume the forces in this area are pretty low, though the shaft is rocking with every stitch which is small movement but could easily be 10 or 20 times a second sewing fabric. I've ruled out any adjustment of the rock shaft from the broken end whatever repair it ends up with

Thanks, Neil

[fredk]

Just did a quick scan of this thread.

If the there is no pressure on the broken part; the idea of pegging and JB wedl [aka chemical metal] might work

Or search out someone who repairs vintage car engines and gear boxes; they usually have the facillities for stitch welding cast iron

If you're looking any decent sewing machines try this place in Staffordshire, I got my 15k from them and I'm about to order another diffrerent machine. Good packing, serviced before its sent, good back up;

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/SEWING4EVERYONE?_trksid=p2047675.l2563