Need Needles for my Singer 144WSV37

[DelNeroDesigns]

Hi Everyone,

 

I am looking for help with a needle dilemma I purchased a old Singer 144WSV37  according to all the materials I have read this machine should take a 7 x 3 needle but I bought some and they are too long for the machine. The machine came with only one needle and I cannot read the print on it even with magnifiers.  Could I ask y'all to take a look at the needles in the picture? The longer one is a 7 x 3 Organ needle next to it is the needle out of the Singer it is about 1/3 inch shorter... I am stumped could it be a 7 x 19 size 27 needle?  I am in desperate need of needles HEEEEEELLLLLPPP!

 

Thank you

 

Bryn

[Wizcrafts]

Maybe the shorter needle is a 214x1, aka 328, aka 45x1

[dikman]

If all your information suggests a particular needle size, but it doesn't fit, my first thought would be that someone has reset the needle bar to take a different size needle. Can you reset the bar for the needles you bought?

[DelNeroDesigns]

Hi Whiz,

I will see if I can find some to try.

Thank you!

Bryn

 

Resetting needle bars??? way outta my league. I will google it though to see what's involved.

 

Thanks

Bryn

[Uwe]

Please post some pictures of your machine. I want to see what the 144WSV37 looks like. Is it a long arm machine? Take some pictures with the face cover at left end of the head removed, too.

Your needle bar may have two lines marked on it. Those are used to set the needle bar to the correct height. If the lines are present on a normal, well adjusted machine, the upper of the two lines should be just barely visible at the bottom end of the needle bar bushing when the needle bar is at its lowest position during the cycle. Then, if you keep turning the hand wheel until the lower line is just barely visible, that's your hook timing position.

If your upper line moves well below the needle bar bushing, that's an indication that the needle bar was lowered to accommodate a needle that is too short. The problem with a too-low needle bar is that it may touch the feet during the cycle and bind or rub, especially when the feet are raised (e.g. for bobbin winding.)

Adjusting the needle bar height is not hard to do. Usually there's just one screw (maybe two) to loosen and then you can slide the needle bar up and down. This is an important step during hook timing. You'll want to know how to do that unless you enjoy schlepping that monster to a technician a lot. 

The Singer 144W103 Manual may be useful, too: 144W103_W203_W303.pdf

 

Edited August 23, 2017 by Uwe

[shoepatcher]

I would try a 7x23 needle.  That is what Adler 220 and 221 machines use  and they are of the same class as the Singer 144, 145.  Yours is a SV machine and Singer Rarely published info on those machines

glenn

[machinehead]

2 hours ago, shoepatcher said:

I would try a 7x23 needle.

I am with shoepatcher on this, especially since some sub classes of the 144 call for the 7x23 needle. If you can get a measurement from the end of the shank to the top of the eye and the diameter of the shank of the needle that came with the machine I can compare the 7x23 and 214x1 to it. Also, if you can see the number stamped into the shank and the overall length can sometimes be useful.

[gottaknow]

Original Singer needle for all 144W class is 7x3, all 144A class is 7x23. Depending on what the previous owner had available, if it was the 7x23 the needle bar was adjusted accordingly. Both needles are available in Groz Beckert.

Regards, Eric

[DrmCa]

To move the needle bar you loosen a couple of screws and move it up and down, that's about it.

The long arm model looks like this:

[Dave9111]

If you can't adjust the needle bar and you can't quickly get a shorter needle, you may want to try cutting the long one down to size.  

An abrasive cutoff wheel would make short work of it. 

Edited August 25, 2017 by Dave9111
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