Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • Members
Posted (edited)

Those drive screws can be a bear - Especially when they're holding a fragile raised relief badge like the singer one.

I've had pretty good luck with just carefully masking the badges - Scrape the paint off around the badge first, and then mask the badge with painters tape, carefully burnishing the tape over the edge, and trimming with an Exacto knife or razor blade.

If you want the badges off, then start with a small straight punch with a good crisp, square tip, and a small hammer. Hold the punch at a low angle against the side of the screw head, and tap the screw a couple times, from different directions, sideways - This will usually loosen it up in it's hole. Then you'll need to get under the edge of the screw head (or the badge itself) with something sharp and sturdy enough to pry with - A small sharp wood chisel will work. Maybe a sharpened putty knife, etc, to start with - Creativity helps here :~)

If you need to get new drive screws, you can find them at McMaster Carr - Their stainless ones are kind of attractive ......

Be patient, and good luck

Edited by trash treasure

The model number giveth, and the subclass taketh away ......... Sometimes

  • Replies 36
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Posted

Yes,it's best to leave them on ,the larger one is almost impossible to get off w/o ruining it.I've used a wood chisel to get under them but as treasure said it is a lot easier to mask them & cut around w/a razor blade or exacto knife,then you won't be shopping for replacements,LOL!

Bob Kovar
Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales Ltd.
3631 Marine Rd
Toledo,Ohio 43609
1-866-362-7397

toledo-banner-2.jpg

  • 1 month later...
  • Members
Posted

I have a similar problem on my 111w155 the timing seems ok but the foot is barely lifting but it is lifting

  • Members
Posted

Cbm, by following the adjustments in this thread you should be able to get it set right. It's actually not that difficult. Has someone been fiddling with the adjustments? It would be unusual for it to just "go out of adjustment", unless, of course, a screw has worked loose somewhere.

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

  • Members
Posted

I replaced many parts including the arm shaft so this is a new eccentric and I dont know at what point to lock it down.I understand that the inside foot has to hit the feed dog along with the needle when adjusted properly but at what stitch length is the eccentric at full lift etc.yours looks great but I am new to this.

 

 

  • Members
Posted

I really shouldnt have had to replace so many things when I am finished this machine will be virtually new the main feed bar was cracked the presser bar was cracked the thread release bracket etc etc I accurately put everything back together thanks to mr.grosse,s videos and the navy manual but unsure on eccentric.

  • Members
Posted

i found for taking the pins out, go in from the back of them, bend them straight again (they are usually bent from the inside) with a long screwdriver then tap them out a little with the flat side of the screwdriver, hitting the stem of the screwdriver that is protruding from the hole of the body (that is why i said long screwdriver). then you can grip them easier instead of prying.

  • Members
Posted

thanks i dont know about that but definately learning quickly

  • Members
Posted

Jimi, great tip on straightening the pins from the inside. I'm going to try that!

Cbm, did you get it working right?

If not, try this...

Your presser foot lift height is controlled by the Eccentric Cam LIFT or wobble. Regardless of the position the Cam sits on the upper shaft, adjust the Cam LIFT to a middle position within it's range of motion. The LIFT can be really high to zero (actually negative), so figure out how it moves and put it in the middle, i.e. +5 out of ten. There are 2 screws used to adjust the LIFT. One is a lock screw which you can remove for the adjustment, and the other adjusts the LIFT of the cam by turning it clockwise or counterclockwise. Count the turns and put it in the middle. That should get it about right. In my case it was perfect, dumb luck with just one adjustment. From a design standpoint you have to figure Singer would machine a cam with the same range of adjustability both above and below the ideal LIFT position so that is a good place to start.  

After the pressers are lifting the right amount then time the middle presser with the needle to land on the product at the same time. This is done by rotating the Cam on the upper shaft. Two Setscrews hold it in position on the shaft

The Pinch Screw is used to equalize the inner and out presser lift - so the feet are lifting the same height. 

Hope it helps,

Will in Central Florida 

 

 

cam_lift_screw.jpg

pinch_screw.jpg

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...