Something to Sing(er) about! :)

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

Sorry I was trying to type desirable.  

Edited March 25, 2018 by Gregg From Keystone Sewing

[suzelle]

As found condition - under the table 

[suzelle]

Previous Owner fixed a couple things. Trying to add more pics because I wanted to show the paper clip wrapped around the top of the rod that connect to the motor. Anyhow, I'm unable to post another photo, but use your imagination.  I am sure this is part of the reason the machine had never really been used at all. I have Mickey Mouse to thank. So glad the head is in such great shape. Really just a few small adjustments all over the machine and it will be a great workhorse for standard sewing in the table.

I'm thinking I will go ahead and use the clutch motor in the table, that makes sense. Later, when I get the table all set up (taking my time) I will work on making the machine portable too. It has the kind of hinges that allow you to just lift the machine right out of the table without any unscrewing or anything. Love that!

Edited April 10, 2018 by suzelle

[suzelle]

I am hunting for the rod and the bolts that go here to hold the motor into position and/also adjust the belt tension.

Can't find anything online, just a part. Hopefully I can find one, if not I may just fabricate this part. If anybody has one of these, please let me know.

Much appreciated!

[Michiel]

I have two sewing machines i do not use verry often so they share one table (they have the same bedsize)

i discovered that in my case the motor is heavy enough to produce the right moment to keep the belt on tension.

(so its verry easy switching machines)

it  works because of the angle of the motor (realated to the v belt) 

maybe it works for you to (depending f the position of the connection between the table and the motor and the lenght of the V belt.

since this works so well i try to have all my machines from the same " family" (adler in my case)

 

[brmax]

I think to avoid shipping cost, I would fabricate. This choice if I was in a hurry. 

The connection at the top needs known ? I believe it to take typically an L shape 3/8” rod to be .340” diameter up to 3/8” with threads at the oppositte end, these likely 3/8” course thread size and 4”.  In short I would picture a 7”  long bolt and have some one help with vise, bend this long bolt. The shape would be an L with the bottom end then longer at 5-3/4” and straight with 3/8” threads. The top length being 1-1/4” long. Flat washers needed @ 2, with one loc washer and two standard nuts that fit the threads. Again this if in a hurry and to save shipping which i havent a clue what 4 oz cost.

 

Good day

Floyd

 

[suzelle]

 

Michiel and BRMAX,

Thank you for your ideas! Initially, I was hoping that when I found a Singer 20U, that it could share a table with another machine. Unfortunately, my Pfaff 545 isn't the same size opening. I have seen a few photos of tables that people have altered in different ways, even for machines that were shorter - they put a filler piece in the table to temporarily fill the gap in the table for smaller machines. That's also something to consider, but the whole belt and motor combo would have to be easy to adjust for me, otherwise I wouldn't do that.

I really don't mind having (2) Commercial tables, I can always lift the Singer 20U out  when not in use, and still utilize the table as part of my extension table(s) set up for my Pfaff when I sew long banners. So I do have some floor space in that area of the shop. I'm not in a hurry to get this Singer 20U set up.

BRMAX, thanks for your ideas about fabricating a bolt, I had been thinking I might do just what you have described. Not being in the bolt-bending business myself, I wasn't sure if I was on the right track though, if the bolt was actually bendable. Glad you described it, thank you! Wouldn't you think you could just buy that bolt with the bend already in it? I was unable to find anything but maybe someone who sells motors would have those parts available to them. I'll keep trying and if no luck, will probably just visit my local hardware store and start fabricating! Thanks so much!

Edited April 17, 2018 by suzelle
Adding photo

[dikman]

Best way to bend a bolt is to heat it at the bend point first, this removes any stresses and ensures it won't break/fracture. As long as the bolt is mild steel, however it can be bent with brute force, either holding it in a (solid) vice and hitting it with a big hammer or slide a long piece of pipe over it and pull! The only thing you have to watch is that you don't damage the threads (I've had to make a couple myself).

[480volt]

Threaded rod bends easy and is cheap. It’s like grade nothing on the SAE chart, but will be plenty strong for what you are doing.

[suzelle]

On 4/17/2018 at 3:29 PM, dikman said:

Best way to bend a bolt is to heat it at the bend point first, this removes any stresses and ensures it won't break/fracture. As long as the bolt is mild steel, however it can be bent with brute force, either holding it in a (solid) vice and hitting it with a big hammer or slide a long piece of pipe over it and pull! The only thing you have to watch is that you don't damage the threads (I've had to make a couple myself).

Thanks dikman and 400volt! Okay, no fear - I will proceed!    Had a busy weeks, lots of my Customers in a rush for stuff, so have been away from the forum.

Hopefully I will find some more time to mess with this machine next week. Although I say I am not in a hurry (I'm not, I have other machines) I am anxious to get this one together. I think this machine is going to be one I'll use pretty regularly for it's zigzag stitch. I have so much v69 thread too, which is all good thread but not getting used much these days. So I'm excited! 

Again, thankyou!