Lets talk about WOW factor in leatherwork.

[immiketoo]

I see a lot of people concerned that their leatherwork isn't as good as so and so's leather, or that they wish their tooling was better or their stitching, etc...In my travels both electronic and in person, I have seen a LOT of leather by different people.  Some is fantastic, some is crap (more on that later) but a wide swath in the middle has the greatest variation and potential.  

Often, something catches my eye and makes me say WOW!  Upon closer inspection, the tooling has flaws, or the stitching isn't perfect.  Edges?  Rough...but.  The totality of the package makes me want to keep looking.  The design, or the use of color or some intangible factors that combine to make a product that I would be proud to carry or use.  

Don't sell yourself short by comparing yourself to anyone else.  I guarantee you these wow factors are selling like hotcakes because most people that aren't leatherworkers can't see the flaws anyway.  I live in a high tourism country and I see all kinds of crap.  Cheaply made, but made to look good.  People buy it.  Makes me cry, but such is life.

I'm not suggesting that we shouldn't try to improve on the areas that need it, but be proud of where you're at.  We ALL started somewhere and it usually wasn't good.

[Danne]

I agree with what you are saying. And I would say you should look at others work and try to learn from other (No. not copying, but things like techique) and compare with your old work and see your progress. And it's easy to think "My work is really bad compared to this guy or girl, and I have done this a lot longer" instead be happy with your progress.  My work is really good IF I compare to the things I did a year ago. If I compare with others, there are ALWAYS someone who is much better.

I inspected some handmade IWC-watch straps. They looked awesome, but either the stitching or the edge paint was perfect. 

Edited April 22, 2018 by Danne

[immiketoo]

Yes.  What I find interesting is that as time passes, there are folks I look at and STILL can't figure out how they do it.  Always someone better at some aspect of the craft.

 

[Gabriel Rasa]

That's a distinction I've noticed before, wow-factor vs. detailing -- because I do fantasy costuming, which is all about the wow, about being unique and eye-catching and looking good when people snap pictures of the full costume. Then I get on here, and the high-end guys are talking about all of the thought and detail that goes into making their edges perfectly glassy, or their stitches all perfectly aligned, and I'm like, "lol, wow I'm a hack." Because I'm selling to people who aren't connoisseurs, which means I can get away with less attention to detail than someone making sheaths or belts -- indeed you have to, or you'll price yourself out of the market.

Anyway, I'm belatedly getting good at the detailing aspects of the craft, but it's more for me than for my customers -- they can't tell the difference, so it's just to give me more pride and confidence in what I do, and help me not embarrass myself in front of other leatherworkers. :D

[bermudahwin]

As in all things, you produce and sell (or give) to your market.

I was lucky enough to do a 3 year college course at Cordawainers in London, and was taught by some of the very best crafts, and trades people in the industry (including the Queen's side-saddle maker and the man that made the cricket balls for test matches).

I choose to only make goods to give as gifts at the moment, as I am in full time employment in another industry, so I choose to use my skills to the fullest, and am my harshest critic.

I have also been a designer / pattern maker for leathergoods and luggage companies, and understand making to a cost and to a market.

If you are happy, the customer is happy and they come back for more, you are making it good enough for your market.

If you want to join the Guild of Master Craftsmen, or the Worshipful Company of Saddlers etc, maybe the technique, quality of materials and finish will matter more.

Personally I want to enjoy what I do, not get bored of the making the same thing over and over and learn from the great ideas that others are having -in all material design, to see if it can be done in leather. Personally I was blown away by the work on a mallet and a maul by one member - because they look great and I would never have thought of it. There are hundreds of other craftsmen examples as well, but they stick in my mind.

Have fun (and make money if you can)

Harry

[sheathmaker]

I've been at this since 1951. I have come to believe the "Wow" factor is pretty well hidden in the last 3% of any project.  By that I mean too many folks quit at 97% saying things like "that's good enough"......well, for me it's not good enough until it's perfect....(by the way I've never hit that magical perfect mark yet!). I won't buy "that's good enough", but I will buy and help where I can if I hear "that's as good as I am capable of right now".  I think the Wow factor comes with the consumer's very first impression of your work, and you rarely get a chance for a second first impression.  The wow factor is when they consumer thinks, "Boy that's really expensive, but look at the fine quality and finish; it's certainly worth it compared to this other one"

Above all, be patient .  Great skill does does appear over night, it's earned one day at a time with improvment piled on top of improvement.  You have to be honest and be your own harshest critic, because there will always be those who say "GREAT JOB, Fantastic  when you know in your heart it's not so great.

...and I still say if I ever make that absolutely perfect piece, I stop while I'm ahead and so far I haven't stopped in over 60 years.

Paul 

 

Edited April 22, 2018 by sheathmaker

[KingsCountyLeather]

Personally... I look for the most amazing workmanship I can find and try to emulate that when I’m making my leather projects. I know I’m not going to get even close in quality but I feel I’m getting better each time. 

Also... I’m old enough now to know that I’m not a creative person. I’ve tried and tried to create my own style and it never works out. So... I have to copy!  I know it’s frowned upon but I can’t help it. I look for other people’s work and I try to copy it, usually it turns out a bit different, so the original designer shouldn’t be too angry with me? 

[immiketoo]

1 hour ago, sheathmaker said:

  The wow factor is when they consumer thinks, "Boy that's really expensive, but look at the fine quality and finish; it's certainly worth it compared to this other one"

And then break out their cash.

1 hour ago, sheathmaker said:

You have to be honest and be your own harshest critic, because there will always be those who say "GREAT JOB, Fantastic  when you know in your heart it's not so great.

I see this all the time from leather worker to leather worker.  Perhaps another topic, but GREAT JOB with obvious issues is just blowing smoke.  Its good to be encouraging and helpful, but are falsehoods helpful or harmful?

 

 

1 hour ago, KingsCountyLeather said:

Personally... I look for the most amazing workmanship I can find and try to emulate that when I’m making my leather projects. I know I’m not going to get even close in quality but I feel I’m getting better each time. 

Also... I’m old enough now to know that I’m not a creative person. I’ve tried and tried to create my own style and it never works out. So... I have to copy!  I know it’s frowned upon but I can’t help it. I look for other people’s work and I try to copy it, usually it turns out a bit different, so the original designer shouldn’t be too angry with me? 

There is emulating and there is direct ripoff.  EVERYONE starts emulating someone at the start.  Picking those you admire is natural.  I did it, I still do it.  Finding your own style is a nebulous topic.  Apparently I have my own style, but I didn't consciously develop it, I arrived at it one piece at a time, until people started recognizing my work as mine just from the look of it.  Don't worry, you'll have one of your own at some point.

[battlemunky]

Every once in a while, you read a post in a forum and it makes sense somewhere deep inside your brain. Thanks for this thread.

[Tugadude]

2 hours ago, KingsCountyLeather said:

Personally... I look for the most amazing workmanship I can find and try to emulate that when I’m making my leather projects. I know I’m not going to get even close in quality but I feel I’m getting better each time. 

Also... I’m old enough now to know that I’m not a creative person. I’ve tried and tried to create my own style and it never works out. So... I have to copy!  I know it’s frowned upon but I can’t help it. I look for other people’s work and I try to copy it, usually it turns out a bit different, so the original designer shouldn’t be too angry with me? 

This is a great topic and and this post in particular reminds me of something I was thinking the other day when looking at a topic concerning a ladies long wallet.

I want to follow up on immiketoo's response to KingsCountyLeather's post.  It nailed the issue pretty well.

So I read the post on the ladies long wallet and noticed that the maker had used a pocket design that I hadn't seen before.  It was a sort of wave shape, but had some unique curves.  I pointed out that it was his "signature".  That shape alone, just a pocket shape, to me contributed to the "wow" factor of the piece.  I think I might have commented that I hope others don't copy the design.

So my take for what it is worth is that leatherwork is so old by now that it is getting harder and harder to come up with something original.  I'm sure that anything I've created that I believe to be unique to me has been done before.  Probably over and over.  The trick, I believe is to create that "style" (and I agree with immiketoo that it can be nebulous), and continue to refine your own personal look.  Don't overtly copy.  Take a design and change it to suit your style.  Add a touch or two.  

I saw a nice luggage tag on here the other day and decided to make one myself.  I took the basic idea and created one, but it is far from a copy.  I used the skills I'm comfortable with and altered it enough to make it an expression of my style.  

So to KingsCountyLeather, who has always been a gentleman on the forum I say don't be too hard on yourself.  The mere fact that you are thinking about it speaks volumes about your character!

[Tugadude]

Now that I'm warmed up, might as well keep going.  I wanted to chime in on the subject of criticism.  I made a comment once to a post that was in the "Show Off" area of the forum.  The OP apparently was not thrilled with my comment.  I believe I was spot-on with my comment but didn't reply, just let it go.  It was at that point that I decided to refrain from making any critique in the "Show Off" section and reserve that type of feedback for the "Critique My Work" section.  The OP didn't ask for critique so I was wrong for offering any.  Lesson learned.

I try to be balanced, in other words pointing out something good and then something that might need attention.  There is always something good to say and good work should be praised.  But all praise and no criticism leads to a false sense of accomplishment.  So I believe critique is absolutely necessary in order to improve.  But the feedback should obviously be constructive and offered with the best of intentions.  

 

[YinTx]

9 hours ago, immiketoo said:

I see a lot of people concerned that their leatherwork isn't as good as so and so's leather, or that they wish their tooling was better or their stitching, etc.

THIS.

Always slows me down.  So many aspects to learn in leather, and all kinds of things that can be made:  shoes, wallets, purses, briefcases, holsters, belts, guitar straps, totes, chaps, carvings, decoration, the list goes on and on.  And even in one genre, so many variations and techniques, leather types (chrome tanned, veg tanned, bridle, english bridle, retanned, pull up... garment, lamb, goat, ostrich, cow, turkey, ostrich.. ) that it seems I can't learn enough.  I almost never seem to make the same thing twice.  

I see so many things that the tooling is phenomenal, and the stitching is all wonky.  Or vice versa.  I want to be able to produce an item that has both skills in place, but always seem to feel it isn't good enough.  When people see my stuff in person, they seem blown away.  But I always wonder if they are being polite, because I see all the flaws, all the skills and techniques I have yet to perfect.

And there are some phenomenal leather workers out here, that have the skills down and the products are outstanding, full of wow factor and perfection.  So I don't always feel I am doing my customers justice when I know they can order from someone that has been in the trade for decades making beautiful pieces.  This keeps me up late at night practicing and studying.  Which means a lot of what  I make is practice, and destined for the bin.  Slows down production.

Just my view from down here.

YinTx

[KingsCountyLeather]

2 hours ago, YinTx said:

THIS.

Always slows me down.  So many aspects to learn in leather, and all kinds of things that can be made:  shoes, wallets, purses, briefcases, holsters, belts, guitar straps, totes, chaps, carvings, decoration, the list goes on and on.  And even in one genre, so many variations and techniques, leather types (chrome tanned, veg tanned, bridle, english bridle, retanned, pull up... garment, lamb, goat, ostrich, cow, turkey, ostrich.. ) that it seems I can't learn enough.  I almost never seem to make the same thing twice.  

I see so many things that the tooling is phenomenal, and the stitching is all wonky.  Or vice versa.  I want to be able to produce an item that has both skills in place, but always seem to feel it isn't good enough.  When people see my stuff in person, they seem blown away.  But I always wonder if they are being polite, because I see all the flaws, all the skills and techniques I have yet to perfect.

And there are some phenomenal leather workers out here, that have the skills down and the products are outstanding, full of wow factor and perfection.  So I don't always feel I am doing my customers justice when I know they can order from someone that has been in the trade for decades making beautiful pieces.  This keeps me up late at night practicing and studying.  Which means a lot of what  I make is practice, and destined for the bin.  Slows down production.

Just my view from down here.

YinTx

I think this is where a lot of us are... its call experience.  In my day job a lot of people look at my work and say wow as I do when I see fantastic leather work. But... I have been doing it for 40 years. And even now before I go to work i am always working out the project in my head before I even get to the site. And even now, 40 years experience, I still have butterflies in my stomach before cutting my material. I think that’s what makes a better craftsman. 

I never like to hear an over confident craft person. 

Everyone needs a little encouragement no matter how bad the work but dont lie. (Difficult at times...)

@Tugadude Thank you for the nice comment. I personally like constructive critique but always use the show off section because I already know most of my mistakes, i just failed to get it the way it should have been. 

Last thing... When giving critique, I think you have to judge what stage the leather worker is at and give critique accordingly.

[immiketoo]

4 hours ago, YinTx said:

I see so many things that the tooling is phenomenal, and the stitching is all wonky.  Or vice versa.  I want to be able to produce an item that has both skills in place, but always seem to feel it isn't good enough.  When people see my stuff in person, they seem blown away.  But I always wonder if they are being polite, because I see all the flaws, all the skills and techniques I have yet to perfect.

And there are some phenomenal leather workers out here, that have the skills down and the products are outstanding, full of wow factor and perfection.  So I don't always feel I am doing my customers justice when I know they can order from someone that has been in the trade for decades making beautiful pieces.  This keeps me up late at night practicing and studying.  Which means a lot of what  I make is practice, and destined for the bin.  Slows down production.

Just my view from down here.

YinTx

I try to be a well rounded leatherworker.  I want my construction to stand out as much as I want the decoration and edges and finish to stand out.  Recently, I saw a well renowned master post something for an upcoming class where the stitching looked like my first year attempts.  I think its imperative that all aspects of your piece are at an acceptable level before I offer something to the public.

That being said, there are pieces out there I charged money for that I cringe just thinking about.  I guess its the journey, right?

[chrisash]

21 hours ago, hwinbermuda said:

As in all things, you produce and sell (or give) to your market.

I was lucky enough to do a 3 year college course at Cordawainers in London, and was taught by some of the very best crafts, and trades people in the industry (including the Queen's side-saddle maker and the man that made the cricket balls for test matches).

I choose to only make goods to give as gifts at the moment, as I am in full time employment in another industry, so I choose to use my skills to the fullest, and am my harshest critic.

I have also been a designer / pattern maker for leathergoods and luggage companies, and understand making to a cost and to a market.

If you are happy, the customer is happy and they come back for more, you are making it good enough for your market.

If you want to join the Guild of Master Craftsmen, or the Worshipful Company of Saddlers etc, maybe the technique, quality of materials and finish will matter more.

Personally I want to enjoy what I do, not get bored of the making the same thing over and over and learn from the great ideas that others are having -in all material design, to see if it can be done in leather. Personally I was blown away by the work on a mallet and a maul by one member - because they look great and I would never have thought of it. There are hundreds of other craftsmen examples as well, but they stick in my mind.

Have fun (and make money if you can)

Harry

I think that says it all, the perfect attitude to life 

[bermudahwin]

Norfolk boys!

Chilled.

Hopefully we'll meet one day Chrisash.

Harry

[JMixx]

14 hours ago, immiketoo said:

That being said, there are pieces out there I charged money for that I cringe just thinking about.  I guess its the journey, right?

I have some hand-made items I have purchased over the years that have small "irregularities" that the crafter probably viewed as "mistakes."  I see them as characteristics that make *mine* unique, and, in a few cases, the irregularity made the piece better for what I bought it for.  I once knitted a cardigan (in one piece) that "turned out wrong" because I flubbed the pattern and made too many increases in the front (so it turned out "double-breasted," overlapping in the front).  It ended up going with me to a craft show by mistake, and I set it in the back, where I thought it would be out of sight.  About half-way through the show, a woman asked me about it (oops, not out-of-sight enough!), so I handed it to her, explaining that it hadn't turned out right, so I could give her a big discount if she especially liked the color or something about it.  She put it on and wrapped it around her--and her 8-months-pregnant belly.  She said it was the first sweater she had found that was actually constructed for a pregnant woman, and bought it.

I feel that hand-made is usually much higher quality.  And, if I had wanted "perfect", regular stitching, or something that appeared machine-made, I could have bought something cheap from a factory.  I know many  people, including me, strive for perfection, and that's a good thing.  Just wanted to throw in another perspective on those "mistakes."

Jennifer

[Tugadude]

JMixx makes some good points.  Strive for perfection but be willing to accept less if that is your best.  And appreciate mistakes as just less than perfect.  And BTW, nothing we do is ever perfect.  Nice story about the cardigan!

[immiketoo]

This is called satisficing.  A term coined in the police management world where doing just enough to be an acceptable job.  It has no negative connotations, and often, I will stop work on a particular project at a point where I know I could do better, but the price agreed upon for the item doesn't allow for more work.  Sometimes, though I do just the opposite.  Put WAY more time in than I was paid for to make it perfect or as close as I can get to perfect.  Weird.  Anyway, flaws or no, if the customer is happy, that is what matters.

[charon]

This is a great topic and there are really good points from all the contributors. I'm relatively new to leather working so I have a real long way to go but with every item I do I try do improve myself. But as JMixx said, if you want something that looks machine made, buy something that is. To date I haven't made a single item that I'm satisfied with (I'm an IT guy and we have that technical thinking and strive for profession somehow in our blood...) and there are always points during the making of every single item where I think "man, you screwed it again" but I always finish the items. After I finished them I lay the aside a day or two and then grab them and analyse them to see, where it did go wrong and what I can do to make it better the next time. I have not sold something up to now, because I would be ashamed taking money for these imperfect items even if it is only for the materials. Of course no one has ever criticised my work that much and I gave a few items away to people that were happy with it but it's my own standard that keeps me of just trying to sell the stuff yet.

That being said I always appreciate critique of my work, even if it's hard or rough. Seeing something through others eyes gives you the opportunity to improve in many ways. 

Interestingly when I buy things myself I look for handcrafted things that have that personal look to it especially from people that do their craft as a hobby and I love talking with them about their passion and dedication. I'm nowhere as criticising towards their work as towards mine but I think that's the only way to get better in what you do.

When it comes to the WOW effect there are most points already said. Many times, as immiketoo said, the wow isn't as wow when you look closer. Those pro crafters at instagram always position their items the right angle and hide the irregularities. However there are some crafters that I look at and get that wow effect with every item they produce but they are exclusively paying their rent with the craft and not doing it as a hobby as I and many others do. And all their items cost an absolute fortune because they don't put out masses. Nevertheless I love seeing people putting a huge amount of work and passion at every single bit of an item. That has always been wow to me and I always try to learn as much as I can from them regardless of what they do. If someone can teach me sweeping the road like a pro I'm willing to learn that.

But as Tugadude says the most wow effects come in little bits when looking at something you haven't seen before, seeing someone producing good items with self made tools at home because they don't have the money to buy pro tools, seeing a unique design you haven't seen before (I totally feel you here Tugadude) and things like that. Most of these WOW factors have nothing to do with perfect items, at least for me. 

[ABHandmade]

It seems to me that the wow-effect is important first of all for the master himself. To see and feel that your new work is pleasing to yourself more than the previous one is the best reward.
Try to put next to your first project and the one that ended yesterday. WOW !!!
But in order to make the subsequent work better than the previous one, you need to see and admit your mistakes, but not to sprinkle your head with ashes, and in order to prevent them from later. And constructive criticism of professionals is very helpful in this.

PS. And more ... I think that sometimes even a very experienced master can discover something new, looking at the work of a beginner

PPS. I consider myself a newcomer, because for the first time in my life I learned about the veg tan leather and a swivel knife in November 2017.

Edited April 24, 2018 by ABHandmade

[Boriqua]

I build for me first and the customer second. I am my own worst critique and have restarted projects due to flaws I know would never have been noticed by the end user.

I like to look at work I think is superior to my own, which is very easy to find, because my personality is somewhat restless and I know I would grow very bored if I weren't always trying something new and to push on bounderies. Sometimes I see something and don't think it is superior work or not even comparable work but am intrigued by how they did this or that and pursue it just for sport.

Lately I have been working on some pyrography .. I am pretty sure its not a marketable item but its something new.

I think wow is born of your own integrity to the Craft side of building first and secondarily the decorations you choose to embellish your work with. Luckily for me most of the people who come to me want outside the box type stuff so its easy to stay entertained and engaged .. Is my work WOW ... nah Im still working on it!! 

My real life before now was spent designing and producing large scale exhibits. In that role I managed a large group of carpenters, scenic painters, technology people, sculptors and everyone else involved with production. I once had a carpenter tell me after I commented on a 1/4" gap in his work "We're not making watches here. no one can see that from space"  .... It was his last day!

Edited April 24, 2018 by Boriqua

[immiketoo]

Lol...I hate excuse makers.  

[Bob Blea]

WOW is a tough goal for any of us to reach.  I see lots of really fantastic carvings online now, particularly out of Asia.  Some of the artists there are doing really incredible work.  I see makers who have perfect stitching and beautifully clean lines in their assembly.  Like @YinTx it gets to be overwhelming for me because I know I need to work on my hand stitching, my edges, my carving skills, my dyeing skills, etc.  It does seem like there isn't enough time in life to learn all I would need to know to really master anything in this craft.  But I also believe that the way we look at our work is different than how the average person looks at it.  We look at all the technical details and they see the overall item that doesn't look like anything they have seen in their modern mega-mart.

For me the WOW factor comes from custom making items for people.  Most of the work I sell is commissioned and they have something very specific in mind.  I get the WOW from them because I spend time to find out exactly what they want and take the time to make it to their imagination as much as possible.  The final product isn't flawless and I see lots of things I want to improve, but if the customer is thrilled then it's a success.

I was in a Robert Beard class once where he said that he wasn't paid for the QUANTITY of his work, he was paid for the QUALITY of his work.  I've always kept that in mind when I'm making anything for a customer.  Seemed like good advice to work by.

Bob

[rodneywt1180b]

Great topic.

The very definition of the Wow factor means that not everyone can achieve it.  Would I like to reach that point? Yes.  Will I?  Probably not.  The good news is there is plenty of room for makers like me who don't reach that lofty standard.  Good, serviceable work has it's place too.

I'm still a complete novice when it comes to leather.  No "Wow" there and there won't be for quite a while, probably not ever.  If I ever do get a wow on my leather work it'll be along the lines of "Wow. How did you manage to mess that up that badly?"  That doesn't keep me from trying. 

Canes are my main focus.  As far as my cane making goes, well, no "Wow" there either.  I try to get better with every one I make and I can see the improvement.  I'm still a long way away from equaling the work of makers I admire, but then, maybe that's not my biggest reason for making them.

Canes are different than some things.  Canes tend to be more needed than wanted. Nobody wants to have to use a cane.

I see this frequently.  A good cane has a profound effect on the user's self esteem.  They give a a little bit of the person's dignity back to them.  It's something your typical drugstore cane just can't do. That's an important reason why I make them.  My goals are simple.  I want to make nice looking canes that are comfortable and that get used.  In fact I want my canes to be the ones my customers reach for first.  I also want them to be affordable.  If someone wants one of my canes I want them to be able to have it.  I generally make a few lower priced ones too just for that reason.

I would love the ability to make a truly high end cane.  I envy the skill and precision of those makers. On the other hand if that's what I made maybe I wouldn't be able to achieve my other goals as well.