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Posted

 

Hi all,

I have been reading posts on this forum for a while, so helpful! I have many years of experience with industrial machines for garments, but this is my first foray into leather for handbags.  Your expertise/advice would be greatly appreciated.  I am going to purchase a cylinder arm walking foot machine from my usual local sewing machine dealer.
 
I am looking at purchasing the Pfaff 335G-6/01.
 
What I will be sewing:
Handbags made from soft leather that is 2 mm thick. Straps for the bag also.
 
My question:
Pfaff's specs say that it allows for a size 12 - 16 needle and up to 70 Tex thread.
 
Is this the right machine for what I will be sewing?
 
I know there is no right or wrong thread size but is there a general rule of thumb/range for the size thread and needle you should use for sewing seams and topstitching for a handbag of this weight of leather? Would this machine be able to handle those thread sizes?
 
Thanks,
Melissa
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Posted

Negative. You should look for a machine capable of at least #92 bonded thread with a #19 needle. That's the minimum I use when sewing purses and their tabs.

I found specs showing that this machine can handle Metric 30/3 thread, which is equivalent to our #92 (T90) bonded nylon. I did not see the needle size limitation mentioned by the OP. Could it be that the machine in question has been modified for smaller needles and thread? If it was, those parts need to be replaced.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

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Posted (edited)

It is often just the feed dog that limits the needle / thread size. The hook often is the same so in best case you change out the the feed dog (one with wider needle hole) and you can use a larger needle size. Also you never know if one of the previous owner (if it is a used machine) already made changes on a certain machine so it is well possible that the machine "as is" already can handle larger needles / thread - just try it by hand cranking or slowly test sewing the machine. Since it comes from a dealer he most likely is able to modify the machine for you - talk to him!

Edited by Constabulary

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

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Posted

A Pfaff 335G-6/01 can sew up to #138 thread.  That is all on use on mine.  Like Constabulary and Wizcraft said, only the needle and feed dog restricts the use.  In my case, I went to a #23 needle and enlarged the needle hole in the feed dog.  If you are buying it new from a dealer, have them set it up to sew #138 thread.  Not a big deal.

glenn

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Posted
On 9/15/2018 at 2:05 AM, Wizcrafts said:

Negative. You should look for a machine capable of at least #92 bonded thread with a #19 needle. That's the minimum I use when sewing purses and their tabs.

I found specs showing that this machine can handle Metric 30/3 thread, which is equivalent to our #92 (T90) bonded nylon. I did not see the needle size limitation mentioned by the OP. Could it be that the machine in question has been modified for smaller needles and thread? If it was, those parts need to be replaced.

 

On 9/15/2018 at 4:09 AM, Constabulary said:

It is often just the feed dog that limits the needle / thread size. The hook often is the same so in best case you change out the the feed dog (one with wider needle hole) and you can use a larger needle size. Also you never know if one of the previous owner (if it is a used machine) already made changes on a certain machine so it is well possible that the machine "as is" already can handle larger needles / thread - just try it by hand cranking or slowly test sewing the machine. Since it comes from a dealer he most likely is able to modify the machine for you - talk to him!

Thank you, I appreciate the feedback.  To give you more information, here are the manuals that the dealer sent me that I was looking at.  I would be purchasing it as a new machine.  I highlighted the specs I was referring to.  Perhaps I was interpreting them incorrectly.  Either way it sounds like I just need to make sure the feed dog has a wide enough hole for the larger needle sizes.

335_Manual.pdf

335_Specs.pdf

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Posted
On 9/15/2018 at 6:56 AM, shoepatcher said:

A Pfaff 335G-6/01 can sew up to #138 thread.  That is all on use on mine.  Like Constabulary and Wizcraft said, only the needle and feed dog restricts the use.  In my case, I went to a #23 needle and enlarged the needle hole in the feed dog.  If you are buying it new from a dealer, have them set it up to sew #138 thread.  Not a big deal.

glenn

Thank you Glenn, it is helpful to hear about your experience with the machine.  I will talk to the dealer about the feed dog.

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Posted
7 hours ago, MelissaT said:

 

Thank you, I appreciate the feedback.  To give you more information, here are the manuals that the dealer sent me that I was looking at.  I would be purchasing it as a new machine.  I highlighted the specs I was referring to.  Perhaps I was interpreting them incorrectly.  Either way it sounds like I just need to make sure the feed dog has a wide enough hole for the larger needle sizes.

335_Manual.pdf

335_Specs.pdf

If I were you I would have a serious talk with the dealer and tell him/her that you need to sew with #138 bonded nylon thread into up to 3/8 inch (~10mm) of leather/canvas/webbing. For this the machine would have to accept either a #22 or #23 needle. If the dealer can set up the machine with #138 thread, top and bottom, and sew into a stack of leather or webbing without skipping stitches and get 5 stitches per inch at 3/8 inch thickness, then do the deal.

If you are looking at an online only deal, ask for a sample to be sewn as described above.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

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Posted

Those manuals are contradictory, looking at max. clearance under the foot one says 7mm the other says 14mm!

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

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Posted

As mentioned before, so I would ask the dealer to set it up to accept the 138 thread and needles. This really is a nice requirement and one I would order if available or simply move on. 

With the different clearances needed and proper setup for bigger needles of 138 thread at the hook. These changes will sure make your expectations with the projects and new machine purchase easier. 

 Some of this is just information I expect a company in the trade to ask me. Along with their recommendations in the first place.

It always helps me having a scratch pad or at least a business card for just these types of notes of customers. Of course the next step of work order with plenty of particulars to check mark. I keep these handy and for sure close to the phones. 

Good day 

Floyd

Posted
4 hours ago, dikman said:

Those manuals are contradictory, looking at max. clearance under the foot one says 7mm the other says 14mm!

That could be hand lift versus foot lift.

Bob Kovar
Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales Ltd.
3631 Marine Rd
Toledo,Ohio 43609
1-866-362-7397

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