JazzBass Report post Posted October 16, 2018 It seems that the experts and aficionados often vehemently insist upon an angle to a saddle stitch. Yes, it makes it easier to tell hand stitching from machine stitching, but- Forgive my amateur eye and possibly "plebeian" taste, but my eye is only "offended" if stitching is uneven in some way, either in line or tension, or visible(too big) holes, or too much "puckering" from tension. Why is the angle of the stitch such a point of contention for leather crafters? What is it that makes folks insist that the angled stitch looks better? Yes, I've finally figured out how to do either look, finding also that a stitch groove will force-flatten the stitch, etc. ...just an amateur, scratching his head on this one. Would love to hear the "why" behind this one, where it started, and why angled stitches are seemingly accepted as "correct" or "superior". Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bikermutt07 Report post Posted October 16, 2018 Correct is subjective. I love the look of the angled stitch myself. I think it looks classy. Is it stronger? I don't think so... You can make your stitches as straight A's you want. I won't mind. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JazzBass Report post Posted October 16, 2018 1 minute ago, bikermutt07 said: Correct is subjective. I love the look of the angled stitch myself. I think it looks classy. Is it stronger? I don't think so... You can make your stitches as straight A's you want. I won't mind. Agree 100% - I'll do the slant for aesthetics, but don't mind a straight stitch for something "utilitarian". I was just curious as to what others think Thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fredk Report post Posted October 16, 2018 The angle of the hole; in hand stitching the hole is made with a diamond shaped awl blade or triangular needle. If you align the points of the diamond on each hole, when you pull the thread tight, it will cut thru the leather, thus the holes are made at an angle so the flat faces of the diamond are nearest each other, this gives the leather between stitches greater strength. Then when you sew each thread should go in and wrap around that stronger part. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted October 16, 2018 My stitches are straight. Every time. I guess I would do that angled thing, but that would require additional payment and a signed release from the buyer stating that the angled thing was THEIR choice and request. I also don't have frills on my underpants, so .... Far as I'm concerned, anything detracting from STRAIGHT stitching is a FLAW. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Big Sioux Saddlery Report post Posted October 16, 2018 3 minutes ago, JLSleather said: I also don't have frills on my underpants, so .... Well DAMN! Here I had you all figured for a frilly underwear guy! Now I gotta redo that whole mental picture of what you look like Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted October 17, 2018 43 minutes ago, Big Sioux Saddlery said: Well DAMN! Here I had you all figured for a frilly underwear guy! Yeah, it's likely my sensitive disposition Good to hear from ya, though Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
battlemunky Report post Posted October 17, 2018 (edited) Pulled this straight from JLS's cutesy page, under the "My Bio" section. I thought that the slants were for strength as well and I also thought, for whatever reason, maybe I heard/read it somehwere, that the slant is "English Saddle Stitching". You actually perform the stitch with a pinky lifted in the air Edited October 17, 2018 by battlemunky Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted October 17, 2018 Oh, you guys is a barrel o' fun today Besides, that's a old pic. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stetson912 Report post Posted October 17, 2018 As Fred k mentioned,angled holes are a result of the awesome I blade shape and need for an angled hole. Both styles are " correct" If you like the straight look useing round holes makes it easy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stetson912 Report post Posted October 17, 2018 Matter of fact ks blade sells round dent punches if you're so inclined. I know you said you know how to achieve both styles. Just throwing it out there haha Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ScoobyNewbie Report post Posted October 17, 2018 Is diamond the same as angled? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JazzBass Report post Posted October 17, 2018 4 hours ago, fredk said: The angle of the hole; in hand stitching the hole is made with a diamond shaped awl blade or triangular needle. If you align the points of the diamond on each hole, when you pull the thread tight, it will cut thru the leather, thus the holes are made at an angle so the flat faces of the diamond are nearest each other, this gives the leather between stitches greater strength. Then when you sew each thread should go in and wrap around that stronger part. @fredk Interesting - I hadn't considered that angled holes would make the stitch stronger, but what you said makes sense. I'll leave the subject of "frilly underwear" to others...LOL! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted October 18, 2018 (edited) On 10/16/2018 at 6:01 PM, JazzBass said: It seems that the experts and aficionados often vehemently insist upon an angle to a saddle stitch. Yes, it makes it easier to tell hand stitching from machine stitching, but- Well, if Stohlman wasn't the "best", he certainly was the best known. And his book about hand stitching shows (and stresses) a straight stitch. So, experts ....? Hmm.. And, this was sewn with a machine. ↓ Edited October 18, 2018 by JLSleather Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JazzBass Report post Posted October 18, 2018 (edited) Interesting! I knew that there would be a variety of opinions on this topic. Great info for us newbies. Thanks! As Nigel said in his videos, "if you're getting the stitch that you want, then you're doing it right" Edited October 18, 2018 by JazzBass Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
battlemunky Report post Posted October 18, 2018 Look at page 10 of Stohlman though. slanted holes are "right". He isn't stressing straight stitching at all, unless I'm misunderstanding what we're meaning when we say "stitching". Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted October 18, 2018 yeah, it's straight. P 10 shows it IN A STITCH GROOVE, so ... and if you look at the finished goods on the back cover.. straight. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
battlemunky Report post Posted October 18, 2018 @JazzBass, what do you mean by stitch then? Are you asking about slanted stitching holes vs round holes vs diamond holes laying in the direction of the groove/stitch line vs diamond holes laying perpendicular to the groove/stitch line? Admittedly, I'm suddenly confused about what we were talking about. If you are asking about slanted holes, it is for both strength and aesthetics. If you weren't talking about that, I don't think I was picking up what you were putting down. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fredk Report post Posted October 18, 2018 On 10/17/2018 at 12:01 AM, JazzBass said: It seems that the experts and aficionados often vehemently insist upon an angle to a saddle stitch. Yes, it makes it easier to tell hand stitching from machine stitching, but- Its what I call the 'Kings New Clothes' symptom. It has to be xxxxx because 'everyone' says it has to be. Like drinking white wine only with fish meals; I'll drink white wine whenever I please. Learn to never listen to those people who try to dictate 'rules'. There are certain ways of doing things because that way has worked out best/more efficient, but they are not the 'rules' When all is said and done, the stitches can be zig-zag, straight, herringbone, baseball, done by hand, foot or machine, as long as they are strong and fit for purpose is all that matters Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JazzBass Report post Posted October 18, 2018 Bingo! I'll go with what you (and Nigel's videos) said. If it's the effect that you want, it's "right". Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
battlemunky Report post Posted October 18, 2018 Whew, I thought you were gonna say you drink red wine with fish @fredk, that would've been too far Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JazzBass Report post Posted October 18, 2018 2 minutes ago, battlemunky said: Whew, I thought you were gonna say you drink red wine with fish @fredk, that would've been too far Single malt scotch generally solves the "red/white" dilemma. ROFL!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fredk Report post Posted October 19, 2018 1 hour ago, battlemunky said: Whew, I thought you were gonna say you drink red wine with fish @fredk, that would've been too far Sometimes I do, or a beer, or fruit juice. I make my own meade; I have red and white, I drink it when and with what I like Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stetson912 Report post Posted October 19, 2018 1 tequila 2 tequila 3 tequila floor! My best stitching is done inebriated.... At least it's the best untill I sober up the next day... Hahaha Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DV8DUG Report post Posted October 19, 2018 1 hour ago, Stetson912 said: 1 tequila 2 tequila 3 tequila floor! My best stitching is done inebriated.... At least it's the best untill I sober up the next day... Hahaha Why sober up? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
