What should I look for on a used Juki LU-563?

[LederMaschinist]

Hi all, 

I'm new to the forum here, but have been interested in leatherworking since making a belt with my father when I was 6 years old.

I'm just starting to look at sewing machines, and have found a Juki LU-563 in the area that's for sale at a pretty decent price, IF it operates as it should.  It certainly shows some external wear (fairly worn paint, but no evident rust or damage), and it has been owned by an avid quilter since it was new.

Can anyone give me any specific problem areas on this machine that I should inspect, and maybe some general pointers as well?  Or perhaps a good resource that will tell me what to look for.  I also have a singer 95-1 that I bought for $60.  I am aware that it is far from ideal for leather working,  but figured I could fit it with a wheel presser foot and use it for lighter items.  Mostly I bought it because it came with a newer table with clutch motor in excellent condition.  Now I don't have to look for a machine that comes with a table, and I have already sourced parts to build a reducer.

I happen to be a self-employed machinist for my day job, so I am fairly mechanically inclined, and have a pretty capable machine shop at my disposal.  In other words  I'm not too worried about being able to service the machine myself even if it involves making new parts from scratch.

Thanks.

Edited October 22, 2018 by LederMaschinist

[DonInReno]

Juki made a few winners with the 562 and 563 - great machines that you’ll enjoy sewing with.  

In general for any machine I like to use a strong flashlight and look at every part for signs of cracks, repairs, replacement parts or anything out of place.  Like a detective if there’s something out of place look a little deeper.

The picture is a hairline crack in a Juki 562 bed.   

Not all 563’s have reverse.  If there’s no reverse lever don’t assume all you need is a replacement lever.

The usual wear items that are good to look at are the hook, belt, tension disks, feed dog and presser feet.  Does the hook have a nice sharp point and is it properly timed?  If it’s a replacement hook don’t assume it will work as good as the original - some poor quality imports may need replacing even if it’s new.  Do tension disks have  grooves worn in them from thread? Is the belt in good condition or is it oil soaked or have frayed edges with reinforcing wire sticking out?  

Does it reverse at the same stitch length? The reverse lever should be fairly easy to operate. A stiff reverse may be a sign of a bent shaft under the bed.  Does the handwheel rotate smoothly and with very little wobble? If here’s .010” wobble in the handwheel I’d suspect a slightly bent main shaft.  Has it been repainted and if so is that hiding anything?  Look closely for tell tail signs of repaired cracks or filled holes.  Do any guides along the thread path show deep grooving?

I like to wiggle things - simply move parts and look for unusual movement.  Just a few days ago a loose linkage showed up and was a loose screw and simple to fix.  If the hole was stripped or screw was damaged beyond repair it’s not the end of the world, but it does require more work.

None of these things in and of themselves are necessarily bad if the price reflects the condition - but they do affect the value and the more you catch the more bargaining leverage is on your side.

[LederMaschinist]

Thanks, that's all good information.

Incidentally, those are pretty much the same things I look for in metalworking machinery when I'm contemplating the purchase of a used machine.

[brmax]

Welcome to the forum!

Is the machine operable, and is there chance to talk with the owner operator of this. Especialy if they can locate a manual at hand, thats always a better scenario.

Its sometimes interesting the insight one can get about machines just having a chat with the owner.  Its a whole other discussion in picking through all their infomation of the machines usage : )

For interest what color is this 563 model. If I understood correctly white may have been the last color or newest models.

I would remove the v- belt and turn the handwheel by hand checking for nice smooth operation. With the presser feet in the up position, at first.

Some oiling in anycase is needed if its been sitting. At least where all the red painted holes are. Also removing the left end covers tin plate so to inspect and oil. 

 

Good day 

Floyd 

Edited October 23, 2018 by brmax

[dikman]

If it's the original owner then I think you're off to a good start. I can't add much other than agree that turning it over by hand, listening and feeling for anything that doesn't seem right and checking that it stitches is a good idea.

[R8R]

4 hours ago, LederMaschinist said:

I'm just starting to look at sewing machines, and have found a Juki LU-563 in the area that's for sale at a pretty decent price, IF it operates as it should.

The price of a machine is completely relative to the experience of the purchaser. If you are very well studied in old Juki machines and know what to look for, you know what they should go for. Once you need to start buying parts (or making parts even) it gets to be less of a value. That said, generic parts for the old school Juki machines are DIRT cheap. Like probably cheaper than buying the material stock and making your own.

Look, look and look, all while doing your homework. Used machines are a game of study, patience and timing.

Bring a sample of what you expect to sew (and maybe even the correct needle for it) and try the machine out. If it sews *what you want it to sew* with minimal adjustment, and the owner seems like they knew enough about it to take care of it, then go for it. If you can't try the machine out and inspect it carefully on site, walk away. Once you get it home, it's your headache.

[Wizcrafts]

As a former owner of a Juki LU-563, I suggest that you try sewing (threaded or unthreaded) at high speed (floor it) and watch the stitch length lever to see if it moves up on its own. If it does, your stitch length will vary with the speed you are sewing at. It can be fixed, but requires at least removing the lever and its graduated mounting plate to gain access to the spring or springs that counterbalance the lever.

[LederMaschinist]

Would that simply be a spring replacement with one that's stronger and not worn out?  I saw a picture somewhere once of a machine that had an external bungee cord holding the reverse lever down.  Speaking of reverse levers, I also came across this post bed singer.  It's a 51W30.  The ismacs site makes no mention of a reverse lever for this model, but there is what appears to be a reverse lever on the right side.  Is that a reverse lever?  I also see no adjustment for stitch length.

 

 

[SARK9]

5 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

As a former owner of a Juki LU-563, I suggest that you try sewing (threaded or unthreaded) at high speed (floor it) and watch the stitch length lever to see if it moves up on its own.

Its possible you are thinking of the problem with the Consew 206 series that was corrected with the 206-RB5's stitch dial locking lever. The Juki stitch length control is similar to the Singer 111W models. You may have meant the reverse lever?

 

-DC

[CowboyBob]

5 hours ago, LederMaschinist said:

Would that simply be a spring replacement with one that's stronger and not worn out?  I saw a picture somewhere once of a machine that had an external bungee cord holding the reverse lever down.  Speaking of reverse levers, I also came across this post bed singer.  It's a 51W30.  The ismacs site makes no mention of a reverse lever for this model, but there is what appears to be a reverse lever on the right side.  Is that a reverse lever?  I also see no adjustment for stitch length.

 

 

 

[CowboyBob]

The lever on this one is for stitch length,it has no reverse,this machine has many uses but was made for sewing shoe uppers.

[Wizcrafts]

6 hours ago, SARK9 said:

Its possible you are thinking of the problem with the Consew 206 series that was corrected with the 206-RB5's stitch dial locking lever. The Juki stitch length control is similar to the Singer 111W models. You may have meant the reverse lever?

 

-DC

It may have been the reverse lever that raised up. It's been almost 3 decades since I last saw that machine. It definitely caused the stitch length to shorten as the speed increased.

[LederMaschinist]

8 hours ago, CowboyBob said:

The lever on this one is for stitch length,it has no reverse,this machine has many uses but was made for sewing shoe uppers.

Interesting.  I just assumed it was reverse, because most of the old singer stitch length adjustments come out the front with a knob.  

I have very problematic feet, and the actual reason I'm looking to find a machine is so I can make the perfect work boot.  I just wish this singer was a little more robust.  Although, I doubt it would have much trouble with a couple layers of 6oz oil tan.