PappysLeather Report post Posted November 25, 2018 What is the best way of keeping dye off the back of projects when dying? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
immiketoo Report post Posted November 25, 2018 This is going to sound cheeky, but the simplest answer is, don't put it there. Controlling your dyeing process is essential to clean leather work. A clean dye station without spills or areas that can contaminate your work are key. Wearing latex or nitrile gloves goes a long way to keeping errant finger prints off your work. Adding liners after you dye also helps. If you tape the back side before dyeing, that can help but its no guarantee against sloppy application. Dye edges last and with precision. I know it sounds impossible, but I was where you were a while ago and I hated sloppy backsides. I tried protecting the back in a variety of ways but not putting dye on the back IS the easiest way to avoid dye on the back. I started making sure my process was controlled and repeatable. Now, I make items with color on the front and undeyed lined backs without errant dye marks. This includes the dyed edges. You'll have to develop your own process for this as every work area is different. Tips: Tape or mask the back side. Finish the back with acrylic finish and slick it before dyeing the front. If you miss, you have a second to wipe it off before its permanent. Dye the piece, then add a liner. This covers any oopses as long as you slick the edges without spillage. Don't over saturate daubers. The drip and create dense areas of dye that can spread to unwanted areas including fingers. Consider spraying your color on. It's easier to control. As mentioned, gloves. If you get dye on a glove, replace it before continuing. Clean your dye station with alcohol before any new project and let it dry before starting. Dyestuffs can get EVERYWHERE Hope this helps. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomG Report post Posted November 25, 2018 I make mostly dog collars and leashes. I just dye the back. Most of my stuff is dip dyed, so it's automatic. If I have a project that I am hand dying and want to keep the dye off, I've used blue painters tape. Just be aware that when you pull it off, it will fluff up the nap of the back side and may require some light sanding to get rid of it. I've heard that the frog tape or something like that has less stick and should fluff less, but I have not personally tried it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alpha2 Report post Posted November 25, 2018 I use painter's tape. Haven't had a problem since I started doing that. When the tape is pulled off, though, it tends to pick up the nap of the leather. No problem, moisten it and rub it with a slicker glass. Jeff Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted November 25, 2018 Apply dye from smaller bottles. I have 4 oz bottles I fill from the quarts to make it easier to use. When using a brush, mix in jars with a wide base, not "tippy". The best ones are wider than they are tall. And where possible, keep the dye bottles on a level BELOW the project - if you drip or tip, the project is spared. Doesn't need to be on the floor.. just having the project an inch or two higher than the bottle prevents a spill from being a ruined project. And cover the table. No need to spend a bunch of time and money.. the paper your sides of leather come rolled in works great. If you do spill, drip, slip -- replace the paper. And yes -- gloves. The latex ones I use are like $4 per JILLION or something like that. Money well spent. Available at the drug store up the street. So as a rule: place paper on the table. place project on the paper, perhaps with a board or cutting board under it to raise it above the dye bottle. paint what you paint, however you do it. Seal and wipe the bottle(s). Walk away - clean any brushes that need it, and then Pitch the gloves. When it's dry, THEN go back, remove the paper - any spills or drips on the paper should also be dried. Check the paper -- you may be able to 'flip' it to use for applying finish to that project. Otherwise, replace. repeat above steps for finish coat(s) Oh, if you're in the vicinity of a market, BUTCHER paper works great. Cheap, repels most all liquids, comes in wide rolls. Roll out on the bench, use as needed, discard, roll out new piece. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
garypl Report post Posted November 26, 2018 2 hours ago, JLSleather said: And cover the table. No need to spend a bunch of time and money.. the paper your sides of leather come rolled in works great. Oh, if you're in the vicinity of a market, BUTCHER paper works great. Cheap, repels most all liquids, comes in wide rolls. Roll out on the bench, use as needed, discard, roll out new piece. Like Jeff, I save the brown paper W&C uses when they ship leather - free is better than cheap! I also bought a roll of brown builders paper at Lowes - 36” x 140’ for @$12. Will last a long time. Gary Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ScoobyNewbie Report post Posted November 26, 2018 Sam’s sells butcher paper in rolls. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites