Industrial sewing machine questions for Light to Medium weight leather

[Vikefan]

Is there a machine that could sew holsters, knife sheaths and small thinner leather items like wallets, or would someone need two separate machines for that duty?

I'm thinking welts as thick as 5/8" and thin as wallets with liners.

 

Thanks,

Vikefan

[bikermutt07]

That is going to fall into the 2 machine category.

The Cowboy 3200 tops out a 1/2", so you would need a 3500 to do 5/8". Most folks get by using the 3200 on holsters though. I did learn from a friend that the height of the machine drops a 1/4" when you install the holster needle plate.

There are comparable machines from Cobra and techsew available like the ones mentioned above. 

Also, the industry standard is thread size 277 or thicker for holsters.

Sewing machines are designed to run in a range. They have a sweet spot. Can the 3200 make a wallet? Short answer, yes. 

Long answer, not easily. You will probably find it hard to get a needle small enough to make a decent wallet. Also, the tension on the presser foot is high.  This will cause marks and problems on thinner materials. I believe a lighter spring is available but you would have to change it back and forth. 

Then you have thread and bobbin tension adjustments to fiddle with.

People have done all this to see if it will work. And it has. But, no one that I know of wants to do it as a part of their daily routine. 

Most folks, (myself included) want to set it and forget it. These machines are costly and to to me, intimidating. I don't want to be fiddling with them. I want to use them. 

The best I can tell a machine mentioned above paired with a consew 206rb is a great combination. Or even a cowboy 227r or cb341 if you need the cylinder capability on the small machine.

I recently acquired a 3200 and a 206rb-1. But, my studio has been involved in a long ongoing transitional phase to make room for them, and new work areas. 

So, I haven't really gotten to learn how to use them yet. All that I have passed along is from researching these machines here and elsewhere over the last few years.

There are plenty of experts here and I'm sure they will correct me if I am wrong on any of this.

And don't leave out other manufacturers, I only referenced cowboy and consew because they are the brands I studied up on. Cobra, techsew, artisan, Adler, and juki are supposedly all great machines if cared for.

Cobra and cowboy get a lot of high reviews here for their machines and more importantly, their service.

Good luck.

[kgg]

I agree with bikermutt07. Holster type thickness/thread/toughness is going to require a completely different machine then what would be required to do a wallet.

No one machine is going to be able to give or be able to give constant results over a large range of materials / thickness / toughness, you will be forever fiddling with changing threads, needles, tensions, feet, binders, etc. I think you need to consider multiple machines, if the budget allows, and set them up to do the task that they do best. That way once they are tuned in every time you work them it should/will give constant results.

Less hassle, more enjoyment, more productive.

kgg

[brmax]

Yes, If you selected your leather choice thickness/weight carefully.

Just as you and I would do in the upholstery size or class machines. Our need or want to fabricate super thin nylon materials one in a while, its always our tough denial decision. 

So finding a sweet spot leather thickness with thread you can center the knot of heavier thread.  I have mentioned before using thread colors to contrast a product. This as well can be looked at for blending if one wants thread concealed. 

All that aside the feed mechanisim can be bigger on the large machines as are the gaps and or holes for big needle abilities. 

 

Have a good day

Floyd

[Wizcrafts]

If you truly need to sew 5/8 inch thickness, go for the full size, high lift CB4500, or equivalent. I have one and have sewn over 3/4 inch with it, using #346 thread.

Get a common upholstery class compound feed walking foot machine for your wallets and belts. There are many makes and models that fit the bill, including the venerable old Singer 111 series, various Consew, Seiko, Chandler, Juki, Pfaff, Adler, etc. The upholstery machines can sew from ~3 ounces up to about 3/8 inch, using thread sizes bonded 69 through 138..

[Constabulary]

3 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

Singer 111

venerable she is     

[dikman]

I wish I had a $1 for everyone who asks which machine they should get to make belts, wallets, bags etc - oh, and holsters too!

I could probably have bought a CB3200 with the money.

[Vikefan]

Thank you everyone... Wow... I guess I will hold off and have to investigate further.  Since I don't have a machine I hand-stitch my holsters and Knife sheaths I make. 

Thanks again for all the good information.

 

Vikefan

[dikman]

I handstitch my holsters as none of my machines are capable of doing them. Handstitching is actually the best way to sew holsters, imo, but it does take a while (no real problem when it's only a hobby). Doing a gunbelt, however - edges and decorative stitching - is an exercise in tediousness!

If you can get a good used upholstery-class walking foot it might be a good way to get started without breaking the bank.

In the meantime keep reading the sticky's in this section, there's a lot of info in there to assimilate.

[SilverForgeStudio]

@Vikefan Thanks for this thread- It has seriously shed some light on a decision I was contemplating as well. Thank you!

[Doc Reaper]

I have read through the responses and I saw Singer 111, CB 3200, consew 206rb, cb227r, and a cb341

i too am looking for a sewing machine to make wallets. I need a straight answer, most of what I read would confuse a beginner looking for help!

[Wizcrafts]

7 minutes ago, Doc Reaper said:

I have read through the responses and I saw Singer 111, CB 3200, consew 206rb, cb227r, and a cb341

i too am looking for a sewing machine to make wallets. I need a straight answer, most of what I read would confuse a beginner looking for help!

From your list, all except the CB3200 are great for wallets. The 3200 is more of a holster and double leather belt sewing machines. It uses thread sizes from 138 through 346. While you can use #138 thread to sew the combined wallets together, it is too thick for the interiors unless they are at least 6 to 7 ounces thick.

The Singer 111 and Consew 206 are flatbed machines and the 227 and 341 are cylinder arm machines. All have compound feed walking feet and handle up to #138 thread, top and bottom. Wallets are mostly flat, so I sew mine on flatbed machines. Unless it is subclass 156, the Singer 111 has no reverse, which may be a problem for wallet backs.

[Kcstott]

On 1/7/2019 at 4:54 PM, Vikefan said:

Thank you everyone... Wow... I guess I will hold off and have to investigate further.  Since I don't have a machine I hand-stitch my holsters and Knife sheaths I make. 

Thanks again for all the good information.

 

Vikefan

Figure out what you do the most of and buy the machine that will do that first. Then buy the second machine down the road when you have the funds. 
but yeah it seems that everyone wants a machine that will do it all and no such machine exists. 
belts and wallets you want light thread and fast stitching. 
holsters and sheaths big thread and a slow machine with lots of torque and big needles. 

[ljk]

If I had to make a choice for just one machine it would be a singer 144w with reverse. (or adler equivelant)

25years ago my 206's would not sew certain parts on our mc chaps. We bought a 144w103 We called it T Rex  

pressure feet adjustment is easy, which makes different thickness material easy.  Stitch length

is more difficult (screw adustment} in top of the head. Parts are available.   Another choice would

be a singer 45k with the walking foot.  These machines have a front stitch length lever making locking a

stitch if you slide to zero or close.  Thats how embroidery machines lock stitches between jumps.

Both machines are available down to #20 needles.  I'm currently modifing a $50 45k to sew shoes soles.