How To Make Coin Conchos

[Reegesc]

Here's a tutorial I put together on how to make your own coin conchos.  There's not much to it really, you just need to learn how to solder, and really that's what this tutorial teaches you.  Making coin conchos is sort of incidental once you figure out how to solder.  This is something you can master in an afternoon.

How-To-Make-Coin-Conchos-2.pdf

[ID45]

Thanks cseeger  have soldered pipe for years, never thought of this

[Reegesc]

6 hours ago, ID45 said:

Thanks cseeger  have soldered pipe for years, never thought of this

You're not alone.  :-)   I had a good five years of pipe soldering experience myself before I connected the dots.  It almost pisses you off when you discover how easy it is.

Here's a 20% off Harbor Freight Coupon for your Doming Set --  good through this weekend 2/24/19

[kiwican]

Great idea!

[SickMick]

Wonderful write up! Thank you for taking the time to do this.

[fredk]

Thanks for sharing this

[stelmackr]

I have to say that way one of the best "how to" articles I've ever read.  Clear, informative and easily read.  KUDOS

[Reegesc]

1 hour ago, stelmackr said:

I have to say that way one of the best "how to" articles I've ever read.  Clear, informative and easily read.  KUDOS

I like to write and the thing about writing is that all you're really doing is tossing bait out there in the hopes of every now and then getting a grand compliment such as yours. 

Thank you very much,  You may have just made my whole year.

Edited February 23, 2019 by cseeger

[BeadingEden]

Wow! This is absolute gold! Thank you so much! Just ordered some buffalo nickels so I can try this!

[neilyeag]

Very cool.  Going to take a shot at also. 

[TLP]

A couple of observations for what they are worth.  Firstly,  the micro torch might be a bit on the small side for conchos larger then a quarter.  never used one myself but have had students and friends that used them,  They seemed to have trouble with larger and heavier pcs.  Secondly,  I personally would not use a soft plumbing solder to attach the chicago screw.  I would prefer to use a high temp silver solder and the appropriate flux for the increased strength of the bond.  and finally after silver soldering the chicago screw in place  soak the assembly in a mixture of white vinegar and salt to chemically remove the residue of the flux after which you can polish, this called pickling and can also be done with commercially available pickling compounds.

A  very nicely put together tutorial.

Edited May 16, 2019 by TLP
accidently pasted in info not needed

[chuck123wapati]

thank you!!!!

 

[Reegesc]

I'm sorry TLP. I know you're just trying to help, but your suggestions are just plain wrong and I want to assure my tutorial readers  that the soldering tools, supplies and processes as described  in the tutorial will yield perfectly acceptable and STRONG coin conchos.    

Apparently micro torches have improved  over the past several years.  Just to demonstrate, I chose the largest coin in my inventory, a vintage UK Penny which is about as big of a coin there is.  It's essentially identical in size and weight  to a US Walking Liberty Half Dollar.   Using only my Harbor Freight  Micro Torch, the solder flowed and created that solder joint in the picture in 38 seconds. And look at how nice that solder joint turned out.  That's as good as it gets for a coin concho solder joint.

I agree that you should not use soft plumbing solder to make coin conchos.  Soft plumbing solder, otherwise known as lead solder, has a much lower melting temp and is indeed a soft solder with a low tensile strength.  Fortunately, you won't find lead solder at Home Depot or any other regular retail outfit.  Ever since it was regulated out of plumbing service, all that is available for sale is no lead solder which has a much higher melting temp and far greater tensile strength.  The plumbing solder I have is Oatey's Safe Flo Solder, a run of the mill Home Depot retail item.  It has a tensile strength rating of 5,900 psi. To put that in perspective, a standard scuba tank is rated at at 3,000 psi which means that the force required to make the Oatey solder joint fail is more than the force required to blow up a scuba tank.  

I've made many conchos as described in the tutorial and have never had one fail because the joint wasn't strong enough.  Conchos are mostly used for decoration anyway and the fact is you don't even need to solder decorative conchos.  E6000 glue will work just fine.  That stuff is crazy strong and flexible bond.  I should have put that in the tutorial as well. I use E6000 a lot.

A Pickling Pot?  If I had  a dedicated metal working studio, yeah, I'd have a pickling pot.  But for the average Joe who makes a few conchos here and there, it's overkill.   But to each his own. Personally, I have no problems cleaning and polishing without pickling.  Note that the exposed side of a concho doesn't have flux applied to it.

But I will say this for those of you who would like to try pickling, it's a little more involved than just whipping up a batch of vinegar and salt.  You need to educate yourself on the chemical reactions with different metals.   It's an acid and you need to be careful working with it and properly disposing etc.

 

[mikesc]

But I will say this for those of you who would like to try pickling, it's a little more involved than just whipping up a batch of vinegar and salt. You need to educate yourself on the chemical reactions with different metals. It's an acid and you need to be careful working with it and properly disposing etc.

Plus, you do not want to sniff the fumes, not let splashes get on your eyes..and if you have kids or pets..do not let them anywhere near the liquid or the fumes..

Edited May 19, 2019 by mikesc

[Bob Blea]

Thanks for posting this @cseeger I definitely want to try this now.  You did a great job describing your process.

[Reegesc]

Thank you for the nice comments everyone.   There are a few terrific tips I forgot to include in the tutorial and it's been bugging the heck out of me to share these.    I tried twice to update the tutorial but I cannot control my editing urge to just rewrite the whole thing and go down every rabbit hole  I can think of.   So, I'm leaving the tutorial as is and have added an Addendum which you can download from the original post.   While I was at it I uploaded a demonstration video on YouTube but have also embedded in the original post for this thread.  '

Thanks again for your interest and hope to see some examples and interpretations from y'all soon.

EDIT:  Well danggit the original post is locked down.  I don't know why they do that. It makes it impossible to update tutorials in any sensible way.  Im going to ask for special permission from .....who is it that runs this place anyway?  Joann?  I've sent her I don't how many messages and she hasn't answered a single one.  Ok, that's probably like three messages but still.  Whatever...   Here's the addendum and the video.

 

 

 

 

 

How To Make Coin Conchos Addendum.pdf

Edited June 5, 2019 by cseeger

[AndyL1]

On 6/5/2019 at 4:56 AM, cseeger said:

Thank you for the nice comments everyone.   There are a few terrific tips I forgot to include in the tutorial and it's been bugging the heck out of me to share these.    I tried twice to update the tutorial but I cannot control my editing urge to just rewrite the whole thing and go down every rabbit hole  I can think of.   So, I'm leaving the tutorial as is and have added an Addendum which you can download from the original post.   While I was at it I uploaded a demonstration video on YouTube but have also embedded in the original post for this thread.  '

Thanks again for your interest and hope to see some examples and interpretations from y'all soon.

EDIT:  Well danggit the original post is locked down.  I don't know why they do that. It makes it impossible to update tutorials in any sensible way.  Im going to ask for special permission from .....who is it that runs this place anyway?  Joann?  I've sent her I don't how many messages and she hasn't answered a single one.  Ok, that's probably like three messages but still.  Whatever...   Here's the addendum and the video.

 

 

 

 

 

How To Make Coin Conchos Addendum.pdf

Thank you for the instructions on this! I’ve been thinking about making coin conchos. One question: where do you find the rivet snap tubes without the cap? I’d like to use Chicago screws as well but I have no clue where to find just the female end without a base. 

[Reegesc]

1 hour ago, AndyL1 said:

Thank you for the instructions on this! I’ve been thinking about making coin conchos. One question: where do you find the rivet snap tubes without the cap? I’d like to use Chicago screws as well but I have no clue where to find just the female end without a base. 

Sorry, I don't understand your question.  For Chicago screws you use the female end with a base to solder to the coin.  For rivets you use the male end with a base to solder to the coin.  Then you use the rivet cap (female) or the Chicago screw (male) to attach the concho to leather.  

I don't think there is such a thing as a rivet or Chicago screw without a base and certainly not without a cap or screw.  How would you attach it to anything without a cap or screw?

Did you watch the video?  Pretty much explains it.   

 

[Frodo]

Do you mind If i step in with a few words and advice?

being that i have been soldering for over 45 years I have a little experience and a tip or 2

When soldering the man thing is the 2 pieces being clean and the flux

The flux is the difference between success and failure

let me strongly suggest this flux. 

tip 2, flux works by eating [acid]  the metal., gets rid of the old and exposes the new

It just does not know when to stop. So after soldering your work, spray or dunk your work in a solution of baking soda and water. This neutralizes the flux 

tip 3.  try and find a torch tip with a small blue pointed tip, not a humongo flame thrower

 

[billybopp]

Great stuff!  @Frodois totally right - Acid flux can be nasty stuff!  In the world of electronics we use rosin flux core solder that doesn't eat away at metals but it is not suitable for this application: The rosin flux isn't strong enough for this use, it just doesn't have the "cleaning power" needed.  They also make acid core flux solder for plumbing which is also not the best choice for this use, there's just not enough flux there to do the job.  When buying solder, the type without a core is your best choice when you're using a separate flux.  

Thanks @cseeger!  This is great stuff.  The socket trick is great.  I couldn't justify the price of a doming tool, but I have sockets and a small ball peen hammer.  What a find on your gold coin!  And you're totally right about reading those text books.  I remember them well, and your comment in the addendum made me shudder just a bit as I remembered.  I'm curious, though, do you use silver solder for your jewelry pieces?  It has a considerably higher melting point, but tends to make a really strong bond.

- Bill

[Frodo]

14 minutes ago, billybopp said:

Great stuff!  @Frodois totally right - Acid flux can be nasty stuff!  In the world of electronics we use rosin flux core solder that doesn't eat away at metals but it is not suitable for this application: The rosin flux isn't strong enough for this use, it just doesn't have the "cleaning power" needed.  They also make acid core flux solder for plumbing which is also not the best choice for this use, there's just not enough flux there to do the job.  When buying solder, the type without a core is your best choice when you're using a separate flux.  

Thanks @cseeger!  This is great stuff.  The socket trick is great.  I couldn't justify the price of a doming tool, but I have sockets and a small ball peen hammer.  What a find on your gold coin!  And you're totally right about reading those text books.  I remember them well, and your comment in the addendum made me shudder just a bit as I remembered.  I'm curious, though, do you use silver solder for your jewelry pieces?  It has a considerably higher melting point, but tends to make a really strong bond.

- Bill

Harris O , is what I use, melting point is 1475 degrees/802C

I do not think you guys with the benzomatics can achieve the temp that my torch can

solder melting point is around  400/500 degrees  unless you have a accetylene rig  stay away from sil floss

Here is my torch. and Me getting  frustrated trying to hold the camera and work one handed

This is what you need for sil floss

annealing copper 001 - video Dailymotion

 

Edited March 21, 2021 by Frodo

[billybopp]

39 minutes ago, Frodo said:

Harris O , is what I use, melting point is 1475 degrees/802C

I do not think you guys with the benzomatics can achieve the temp that my torch can

solder melting point is around  400/500 degrees  unless you have a accetylene rig  stay away from sil floss

Here is my torch. and Me getting  frustrated trying to hold the camera and work one handed

This is what you need for sil floss

annealing copper 001 - video Dailymotion

 

LOL!  Soldering alone is at least a 3-handed job usually.  Trying to hold a camera at least 4 hands!   Nice use for vice grips there.

When soldering electronics I use a small vice designed to hold circuit boards, or if I'm just soldering wires together, one of these. The magnifying glass is a huge help too. When I was a mainframe computer tech, I carried both in my tool kit.

I also bought a phone holder with a ring light with intent of using it to do video with, but now that I spend my days on web camera in Zoom conferences, it's been co-opted for holding my webcam. 

Thanks for the video!

- Bill

Edited March 21, 2021 by billybopp

[chuck123wapati]

i use novacan old master flux and canfield 60 40. Both are sold in stained glass supplies.  Good stuff! https://www.amazon.com/Novacan-Old-Masters-Flux-Oz/dp/B000N6KR90

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=canfield+60+40 

Mainly because i do some stained glass as well. but the flux is made for this type of stuff and is a liquid that cleans up easily. 

 

[chuck123wapati]

1 hour ago, billybopp said:

Great stuff!  @Frodois totally right - Acid flux can be nasty stuff!  In the world of electronics we use rosin flux core solder that doesn't eat away at metals but it is not suitable for this application: The rosin flux isn't strong enough for this use, it just doesn't have the "cleaning power" needed.  They also make acid core flux solder for plumbing which is also not the best choice for this use, there's just not enough flux there to do the job.  When buying solder, the type without a core is your best choice when you're using a separate flux.  

Thanks @cseeger!  This is great stuff.  The socket trick is great.  I couldn't justify the price of a doming tool, but I have sockets and a small ball peen hammer.  What a find on your gold coin!  And you're totally right about reading those text books.  I remember them well, and your comment in the addendum made me shudder just a bit as I remembered.  I'm curious, though, do you use silver solder for your jewelry pieces?  It has a considerably higher melting point, but tends to make a really strong bond.

- Bill

Most if not all solders sold in the us now are silver solders, the percentage of silver is what makes them different strengths. Jewelry solders come in gold and silver also with varying amounts. 

[billybopp]

9 minutes ago, chuck123wapati said:

Most if not all solders sold in the us now are silver solders, the percentage of silver is what makes them different strengths. Jewelry solders come in gold and silver also with varying amounts. 

Thanks!   I didn't know that.  I haven't bought solder in a very long time since I don't do electronics for a living anymore and the plumbing here is just about all plastic now.

BTW - I'm sure I'm not alone in that I'd love to see some of your stained glass work if you're up to sharing.  The skills of people on here in addition to leatherwork never ceases to amaze.  Y'all are a talented bunch!

- Bill