3d printed a smaller pulley

[8dsf]

Matt, I am planning to buy the JK 563 and after reading all the topics on the forum looks like there is a problem to source a 40mm replacement pulley with 13mm bore. So my plan was to print one and ask friend to fabricate one for me which would take time for sure... By any chance would you know where to get 40 or 50mm pulley for JK servo motor  in the UK?

Thanks 

Adam

[Constabulary]

I have two JACK servos one came with a 13mm shaft one with a 15mm shaft. Back then someone milled a pulley for the 13mm shaft (did not find any 13mm bore pulleys back then). An easier task is using a tube with 15mm outer diameter and 1mm wall an make a sleeve for the shaft. I did that on a different project - works perfect. If my next JACK servo has a 13mm shaft I will use the sleeve workaround again. Just my 2 cents.

[Matt S]

15 hours ago, 8dsf said:

Matt, I am planning to buy the JK 563 and after reading all the topics on the forum looks like there is a problem to source a 40mm replacement pulley with 13mm bore. So my plan was to print one and ask friend to fabricate one for me which would take time for sure... By any chance would you know where to get 40 or 50mm pulley for JK servo motor  in the UK?

Hi Adam,
I've not used a 563 but both of my smaller Jacks have the awkward 13mm shaft, which is also a little shorter than I would like. The ~70mm pulleys that came on them are thinner than the usual ones. It's a real shame that College doesn't just sell a compatible range of pulleys... or Jack switch to a more common shaft size!

Constabulary/Folker's method looks really neat, quick and doesn't need a lot of tools -- if you can get the right size of tubing. I suspect that you'd still need to reduce the length of the boss on the more commonly available 15mm bore pulleys to fit the shaft though.

What I did is took a 40mm tapered shaft pulley (11mm tapering to 15) and drilled it out to 13mm. That gives a good tight fit for most of the length with a little slop at one end, but with the key installed and the nut snugged down it's very solid. The only thing is that the shaft is a little short so I had to shorten the non-pulley end so it would fit. I used a grinder on the first one, which worked with a little care, then a few passes with a facemill in my milling machine for the second and third ones, which worked better. I've done this 3 times so far, works well.

If you have a 3D printer and the skills to run it, rather than traditional workshop tools and skills, maybe it is a better option than adapting a commercial one. I don't know if I'd hire someone to print one though -- I doubt that it'd be cheaper than hiring someone to make an adapter sleeve or bore out an existing pulley. Probably cheaper than hiring someone to turn one from scratch, unless you know a bloke. I'd still be leery about running a 3D printed wheel at 4500RPM at crotch height for very long though... 

[8dsf]

Hi Matt. I think I will give it a go knowing that guys here use Jack without problems other than adapting a small pulley.  I have just printed  half of the pulley with 0.1mm resolution in PETG from the stl project someone has shared here but I would prefer pulley in one piece so I will have to make own sketch. I agree with you that running on high RPM would most likely deform the 3d printed pulley due to running temperature.  Maybe nylon would survive longer as it has higher melting temperature but printing it brings some difficulties as well.

I have reached JK representative in Europe and somehow they were surprise why would I need to change the pulley as there is speed regulation per design... 

 

Edited June 27, 2020 by 8dsf

[Matt S]

Quote

I have reached JK representative in Europe and somehow they were surprise why would I need to change the pulley as there is speed regulation per design... 

To be fair to them the desire to slow down an industrial sewing machine is pretty rare when taking into account the world market. They may be thinking that what you want to do is limit the top speed of the machine, which with a clutch motor is often achieved by changing the motor pulley but of course with a JK servo is just a menu setting. I presume though that this isn't what you're trying to do?

Your pulley half looks good. Not knowing much about 3D printing I guess you'd have problems preventing the overhanging flange from sagging while printing the full thing? What machine are you running, and how long did that print take? I'm kinda tempted to buy a 3D printer, mainly for making jigs and layup tools, but I don't know how much use I'd actually get out of it.

[jimi]

Ha ha... I think that pulley will work no problems Matt, your dangleberries will be fine  I am still using the one i printed in two halfs and no problems with it, just a little creeky the past couple of days?? maybe the belt is dry?? Anyway here is the print altogether if you want it 8dsf. 40mmpulley2.stl

I did not have too much luck with the support material coming off on earlier prints so that is why i done it in two halfs, but i am a noob at this...

On 6/27/2020 at 10:53 PM, Matt S said:

I'm kinda tempted to buy a 3D printer, mainly for making jigs and layup tools, but I don't know how much use I'd actually get out of it.

I think you would like it Matt, Here are a few things i have done so far.....

this plate was modified by someone so it takes 2 singer thumbscrews which is not too good as they are too close together, I really need to find the pfaff thumbscrew and the small metal plate with the finger to bolck the other hole. It was very usefull until the pfaff guide came along, but it still needs that pfaff thumbscrew and finger.

this is a holder for some printers blocks, it fits on the hand press.

Edited June 30, 2020 by jimi

[jimi]

Never thought i would get hold of one of these things but....too cheap to see it go to the scrap!  This machine was missing a few parts when it came and one was the foot and the clamp for the foot, I printed one up and put a rubber ring on the bottom ( like the originals) to see if it would at least let me see if it was worth looking for parts or not?? It worked! And the needle plate has a printed screw holding it on, this way you can evaluate before spending money on parts for a dud machine? It has its limits, its plastic in the end. And the spool holder on top has a toothed gear on the bottom. it is just for turning with the handle direction.

I had an Old pair of jeans lying around and thought i would see how it goes/sews?? Yeah Yeah i know....sticky fingers Hahaha.... and the wifes kindle stand!

[RockyAussie]

Ha Ha well done @jimi. Just a suggestion on your stamp prints......When you extrude give a thought to putting in a taper of say 15 degrees as you go up. That means making the base polylines a little wider firstly but that makes the top edge stronger and less likely to twist under pressure. I did this procedure on the letter set I made up in an earlier post and it really improved it. Also it comes in handy for tapered pulley holes. 

On 6/28/2020 at 6:53 AM, Matt S said:

I'm kinda tempted to buy a 3D printer, mainly for making jigs and layup tools, but I don't know how much use I'd actually get out of it.

@Matt S I wondered that when I first got mine and I can honestly say that barley a day goes by that there is not some job going through one of my printers. The new big one is almost going and ready to further ramp up production. Phone pouch forming structures will be the next big thing coming through on them.

This is the first print test on the big one and its looking pretty good to me.

 

[jimi]

9 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

Ha Ha well done @jimi. Just a suggestion on your stamp prints......When you extrude give a thought to putting in a taper of say 15 degrees as you go up. That means making the base polylines a little wider firstly but that makes the top edge stronger and less likely to twist under pressure. I did this procedure on the letter set I made up in an earlier post and it really improved it. Also it comes in handy for tapered pulley holes. 

Thanks Brian, I thought about that on the last print but going over it again and applying the tapered face was tricky as some areas would not OBEY!   that´s just me not controlling good the Autocad. But i will try it on the next one for sure but this time from the beginning. That print looks great Brian, 0.1 from here.....I see you have gone to the bowden on this one? That´s a biggie...Any bigger and you will be able to print a new work Shed! 

These are some plugs that i do for vintage Akai decks...gives you Remote control..

Edited July 1, 2020 by jimi

[RockyAussie]

Wow they are neat. The layers on the first print is .2mm believe it or not. I did a lot of mods with regards to stiffening the frame like the large printed corners and raising the cable chain up for it to move smoother and so on. With the raised extrusions some times like in an O or a letter with holes in it you need to - the 15 degree or just make a positive of the same height from the base and then remove it. Simple after you do it a few times. re the Bowden tube I hope to get the speed up from my average 60 to at least 80 or a 100. With a print bed that is over twice that of my little one means that it can make a 6 hour print job take 12 if the speed is not there. NOT my ideal work time. I am thinking any bigger would be useless for a lot of the bulk work and more printers would perhaps be better. Example these wedding ring boxes be that the are probably way too strong and a little slowly printed take about 8 hours to print. The new large one can do 20 at a time easily so it better move faster I reckon.

[dikman]

Jimi, that is a pretty remarkable effort making those Akai plugs!

Brian, the new printer makes the "old" one look like a little toy.

[Bert51]

I can't wait to see what he can make with the new printer and a full report.

Bert.

Edited July 2, 2020 by Bert51

[jsbergum]

Hello, my first post in this forum.

Just bought an old Pfaff 145 H3/1BLN with a clutch motor. For my hobby activities I do not need the speed this machine can offer, and I want it to stitch slow.

The mechanical brake of the cluth motor I want to keep. The plan is to change the ratio from 1:1 to 2:1 by altering the pulley sizes. Lock the clutch by pins mounted in to the flywheel of the motor through holes in the friction disc. Control the speed of the motor with a VSD (variable speed drive /frequency converter).

Anyone gone down that route?

Thanks John 

[jimi]

9 hours ago, dikman said:

Jimi, that is a pretty remarkable effort making those Akai plugs!

Thanks dikman, i do the printing and the cutting and sanding of the pins, the whiz kid does the electronics and programming. There is also another type for the din 8, you can´t imagine how good it is to get a vintage reel to reel working with a remote control instead of a 3m cable like back in the late 70´s 

 

1 hour ago, jsbergum said:

Anyone gone down that route?

Not personally john, but i think you might end up buying a servo motor, and even with a servo i had to slow that down.

 

22 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

Example these wedding ring boxes be that the are probably way too strong and a little slowly printed take about 8 hours to print

Yeah, those boxes look great finished Brian, you could maybe use bigger layers as everything is hidden afterwards? have you tried 0.6 or something similar? might be a lot quicker? what temperature do you use for the bed? with the petg i use 60-65 and sometimes an edge will curl up off the bed  on the tronxy bed sheet some work with no heat, but not wide prints, they seem to need always a bit of temperature.

[dikman]

4 hours ago, jsbergum said:

Hello, my first post in this forum.

Just bought an old Pfaff 145 H3/1BLN with a clutch motor. For my hobby activities I do not need the speed this machine can offer, and I want it to stitch slow.

The mechanical brake of the cluth motor I want to keep. The plan is to change the ratio from 1:1 to 2:1 by altering the pulley sizes. Lock the clutch by pins mounted in to the flywheel of the motor through holes in the friction disc. Control the speed of the motor with a VSD (variable speed drive /frequency converter).

Anyone gone down that route?

Thanks John 

I'm assuming it's a single phase clutch motor, in which case a VFD won't work, it will only work with a 3-phase motor. Which means you will have to buy a new motor + the VFD. Then you will have to make up a fitting to adapt the remote potentiometer on the VFD to work with a foot pedal to give you a speed control.

As Jimi said you're better off just buying a servo, they are a bolt-on replacement and will give you what you want with a lot less messing around.

[jimi]

Just realized i put up the smaller pully oohhps! This is the one that works with the jack servo 50mmpulley.stl

[Wizcrafts]

1 hour ago, jimi said:

Just realized i put up the smaller pully oohhps! This is the one that works with the jack servo 50mmpulley.stl

We have a sub-forum dedicated to 3D printers and Laser cutters where members share files they've created for them.

[jimi]

36 minutes ago, Wizcrafts said:

We have a sub-forum dedicated to 3D printers and Laser cutters where members share files they've created for them.

Ok wiz, I will stick my next stl there.

[8dsf]

I've received the JK 563 couple of days ago but I did not have any pulley removal tools so it took a day to get the right jaw puller... Anyway I've tried my 3d printed pulley today which unfortunately was very tight on installation and cracked.... so tomorrow another print. Thanks Jimi for the stl, but I will try the one I made in Fusion 360 first. I can share my Cura settings for support if you have problems with support being difficult to remove after print.

I've also received a standard straight bore 15mm pulley as Constabulary suggested just to see how easy is to modify it for the JK. Installing 1mm sleeve sounds like a good idea but whats about the bigger 5mm key hole in the standard pulley instead of 4mm on JK ? 

Matt, it took an hour to have one half printed. It would be much quicker in PLA but making it in PETG and 0.1mm layer height took longer..

I've got Anycubic i3 Mega S which I modified a lot.... Its relatively good and not expensive starting platform but has few issues in my opinion so has to be modified sooner or later otherwise results are inconsistent. If you need something good from the box then Pusa i3 mk3 would be your choice. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[RockyAussie]

23 hours ago, Bert51 said:

I can't wait to see what he can make with the new printer and a full report.

Bert.

Me too, but it will have to be in the 3D printer and laser section. Just waiting on a few more mod parts to come in and we will see how it goes.

[Bert51]

I would love to see another of your write ups about this New Bigger printer and some nice samples. 

I might need to change my direction in hobbies or sell something, can't afford another hobby.

Bert.

[jimi]

9 hours ago, 8dsf said:

unfortunately was very tight on installation and cracked

 Hi 8dsf, i printed the 50mm one yesterday with support to see how it was, and the support came off good and the pulley just slipped on no problems??? Cannot understand why it was so tight?? i printed this at 2.5 layer height, PETG, no bed heat and standing upright...

[RockyAussie]

2 hours ago, jimi said:

 Hi 8dsf, i printed the 50mm one yesterday with support to see how it was, and the support came off good and the pulley just slipped on no problems??? Cannot understand why it was so tight?? i printed this at 2.5 layer height, PETG, no bed heat and standing upright...

Might be time to do a 20mm cube and cylinder test to check how true the measurements come out??? I know if you up the flow rate as I do with my 1.75mm filament where I change that to 1.74 caus I like the tight layering does make the prints come out a little over size. Sometimes that means we draw to allow for these changes and the file sharing is not important at the time. A simple scale increase or decrease in Curra should be an easy fix though.

[jimi]

 

5 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

Might be time to do a 20mm cube and cylinder test to check how true the measurements come out???

That took 1h54 i think it was to do? The first one there in my hand is still working no problems, i just printed the other one to make sure i was not sending a dud file for 8dsf. I don´t remember changing any flow settings, and last time the cube was 20x20x20.1 or 2.

[8dsf]

Thanks Jimi.

I have printed today the one piece pulley and I agree removing the support was  bit challenging but it came off eventually :).  The one thing I dont like is the small runout when the pulley is attached, its not bad but its not perfect .... I have not measured it yet but I will do it tomorrow just to my records. I am gonna print two halves tomorrow from your file and compare. Have you noticed any runout on your 3d printed pulley ?

Adam

 

 

 

1 hour ago, jimi said:

That took 1h54 i think it was to do? The first one there in my hand is still working no problems, i just printed the other one to make sure i was not sending a dud file for 8dsf. I don´t remember changing any flow settings, and last time the cube was 20x20x20.1 or 2.