3d printed a smaller pulley

[jimi]

Ha ha... I think that pulley will work no problems Matt, your dangleberries will be fine  I am still using the one i printed in two halfs and no problems with it, just a little creeky the past couple of days?? maybe the belt is dry?? Anyway here is the print altogether if you want it 8dsf. 40mmpulley2.stl

I did not have too much luck with the support material coming off on earlier prints so that is why i done it in two halfs, but i am a noob at this...

On 6/27/2020 at 10:53 PM, Matt S said:

I'm kinda tempted to buy a 3D printer, mainly for making jigs and layup tools, but I don't know how much use I'd actually get out of it.

I think you would like it Matt, Here are a few things i have done so far.....

this plate was modified by someone so it takes 2 singer thumbscrews which is not too good as they are too close together, I really need to find the pfaff thumbscrew and the small metal plate with the finger to bolck the other hole. It was very usefull until the pfaff guide came along, but it still needs that pfaff thumbscrew and finger.

this is a holder for some printers blocks, it fits on the hand press.

Edited June 30, 2020 by jimi

[jimi]

Never thought i would get hold of one of these things but....too cheap to see it go to the scrap!  This machine was missing a few parts when it came and one was the foot and the clamp for the foot, I printed one up and put a rubber ring on the bottom ( like the originals) to see if it would at least let me see if it was worth looking for parts or not?? It worked! And the needle plate has a printed screw holding it on, this way you can evaluate before spending money on parts for a dud machine? It has its limits, its plastic in the end. And the spool holder on top has a toothed gear on the bottom. it is just for turning with the handle direction.

I had an Old pair of jeans lying around and thought i would see how it goes/sews?? Yeah Yeah i know....sticky fingers Hahaha.... and the wifes kindle stand!

[RockyAussie]

Ha Ha well done @jimi. Just a suggestion on your stamp prints......When you extrude give a thought to putting in a taper of say 15 degrees as you go up. That means making the base polylines a little wider firstly but that makes the top edge stronger and less likely to twist under pressure. I did this procedure on the letter set I made up in an earlier post and it really improved it. Also it comes in handy for tapered pulley holes. 

On 6/28/2020 at 6:53 AM, Matt S said:

I'm kinda tempted to buy a 3D printer, mainly for making jigs and layup tools, but I don't know how much use I'd actually get out of it.

@Matt S I wondered that when I first got mine and I can honestly say that barley a day goes by that there is not some job going through one of my printers. The new big one is almost going and ready to further ramp up production. Phone pouch forming structures will be the next big thing coming through on them.

This is the first print test on the big one and its looking pretty good to me.

 

[jimi]

9 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

Ha Ha well done @jimi. Just a suggestion on your stamp prints......When you extrude give a thought to putting in a taper of say 15 degrees as you go up. That means making the base polylines a little wider firstly but that makes the top edge stronger and less likely to twist under pressure. I did this procedure on the letter set I made up in an earlier post and it really improved it. Also it comes in handy for tapered pulley holes. 

Thanks Brian, I thought about that on the last print but going over it again and applying the tapered face was tricky as some areas would not OBEY!   that´s just me not controlling good the Autocad. But i will try it on the next one for sure but this time from the beginning. That print looks great Brian, 0.1 from here.....I see you have gone to the bowden on this one? That´s a biggie...Any bigger and you will be able to print a new work Shed! 

These are some plugs that i do for vintage Akai decks...gives you Remote control..

Edited July 1, 2020 by jimi

[RockyAussie]

Wow they are neat. The layers on the first print is .2mm believe it or not. I did a lot of mods with regards to stiffening the frame like the large printed corners and raising the cable chain up for it to move smoother and so on. With the raised extrusions some times like in an O or a letter with holes in it you need to - the 15 degree or just make a positive of the same height from the base and then remove it. Simple after you do it a few times. re the Bowden tube I hope to get the speed up from my average 60 to at least 80 or a 100. With a print bed that is over twice that of my little one means that it can make a 6 hour print job take 12 if the speed is not there. NOT my ideal work time. I am thinking any bigger would be useless for a lot of the bulk work and more printers would perhaps be better. Example these wedding ring boxes be that the are probably way too strong and a little slowly printed take about 8 hours to print. The new large one can do 20 at a time easily so it better move faster I reckon.

[dikman]

Jimi, that is a pretty remarkable effort making those Akai plugs!

Brian, the new printer makes the "old" one look like a little toy.

[Bert51]

I can't wait to see what he can make with the new printer and a full report.

Bert.

Edited July 2, 2020 by Bert51

[jsbergum]

Hello, my first post in this forum.

Just bought an old Pfaff 145 H3/1BLN with a clutch motor. For my hobby activities I do not need the speed this machine can offer, and I want it to stitch slow.

The mechanical brake of the cluth motor I want to keep. The plan is to change the ratio from 1:1 to 2:1 by altering the pulley sizes. Lock the clutch by pins mounted in to the flywheel of the motor through holes in the friction disc. Control the speed of the motor with a VSD (variable speed drive /frequency converter).

Anyone gone down that route?

Thanks John 

[jimi]

9 hours ago, dikman said:

Jimi, that is a pretty remarkable effort making those Akai plugs!

Thanks dikman, i do the printing and the cutting and sanding of the pins, the whiz kid does the electronics and programming. There is also another type for the din 8, you can´t imagine how good it is to get a vintage reel to reel working with a remote control instead of a 3m cable like back in the late 70´s 

 

1 hour ago, jsbergum said:

Anyone gone down that route?

Not personally john, but i think you might end up buying a servo motor, and even with a servo i had to slow that down.

 

22 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

Example these wedding ring boxes be that the are probably way too strong and a little slowly printed take about 8 hours to print

Yeah, those boxes look great finished Brian, you could maybe use bigger layers as everything is hidden afterwards? have you tried 0.6 or something similar? might be a lot quicker? what temperature do you use for the bed? with the petg i use 60-65 and sometimes an edge will curl up off the bed  on the tronxy bed sheet some work with no heat, but not wide prints, they seem to need always a bit of temperature.

[dikman]

4 hours ago, jsbergum said:

Hello, my first post in this forum.

Just bought an old Pfaff 145 H3/1BLN with a clutch motor. For my hobby activities I do not need the speed this machine can offer, and I want it to stitch slow.

The mechanical brake of the cluth motor I want to keep. The plan is to change the ratio from 1:1 to 2:1 by altering the pulley sizes. Lock the clutch by pins mounted in to the flywheel of the motor through holes in the friction disc. Control the speed of the motor with a VSD (variable speed drive /frequency converter).

Anyone gone down that route?

Thanks John 

I'm assuming it's a single phase clutch motor, in which case a VFD won't work, it will only work with a 3-phase motor. Which means you will have to buy a new motor + the VFD. Then you will have to make up a fitting to adapt the remote potentiometer on the VFD to work with a foot pedal to give you a speed control.

As Jimi said you're better off just buying a servo, they are a bolt-on replacement and will give you what you want with a lot less messing around.