I want to restore a Singer 111W153

[kevinkay]

I got this machine for free, it came without a history and some parts disassembled.  It has no motor, no table.

What I really want to do is to completely disassemble the machine, clean it all shinny, repaint the body then get it back together.  Reading about these machines maybe there is  too much "adjustments" to try and do that.   My next path was to get what i need to make it sew and see how functional "as is".   I have some motors and belt I could "jimmy-rig" without a clutch or speed control or I have several small home machine motors/foot control.    I ordered the front tension assembly, the tension release slide (which I think the former owner was trying to make), a bobbin winder and some walking feet.    At further inspection I will also need the spring for the tension slide, a thread guide where the needle attaches and maybe even the piece that holds the needle?   I think also there should be a spring on the needle bar??  At this point I reassembled the knee presser foot lift without tightening or adjusting.  Not sure I have that big spring in back correct - seems a little too "unrefined" how its loose on the back of the screw post and the top of spring doesn't go into a hole??.  I don't understand the stitch length adjustment - It's on the hand wheel,  I could not get it to move until i pulled it out (and I was able to pull it completely out).  I have that little button on the bed but I can see nothing looking through the hole (no dial in there).  I believe I don't have a safety clutch underneath nor the second little button on the bed.

Sorry for rattling on......So my next plan is to remove the oil wicks and degrease and wash down the whole machine.  Can I separate the 2 main pieces without loosing adjustment?  (I understand the timing belt adjustment and its lined up and the belt is OK).   I hate that someone painted everything - the thread guides and all the moving parts on back are painted.

The tension slide on the singer parts list  was 240141, i was told 240500 is the same or will work?

I am handy and pretty good on "figuring it out" but only dabbled and adjusted domestic sewing machines.  I am a -  "jackass of all  and master of none".

Where do I start?

THANKS!

Kevin

[SARK9]

Are you sure this isn't a 111W103? It has the older stitch adjustment knob on the handwheel and no buttons protruding through the bed like the 111W15(x) series machines have.

 

-DC

[kevinkay]

I am not sure of anything...but it does have the brass pinned in model #, the Singer emblem is missing.

it does have one little button on the bed

I am going to research the 103, thanks!

 

[tofu]

disassemble everything? that's A LOT of work for a machine that isn't very valuable.

i'd just sand the paint as best i could, soak it in solvent (replacing all non-metal parts), tape it off, spray primer, spray paint

[kevinkay]

not disagreeing with your logic, but I think playing golf is a waste of time .  I am the guy cutting his own grass - pulling weeds without poison, rotating tires every 5000 miles,  draining the hot water tank once a year,  sealing the driveway every 3 years, and my 16yo Weber grill still looks like it was bought yesterday.

I want my machine to look like this and hope the "oil" decals are original to my machine    

[shoepatcher]

Go for it.  Just be careful not to disassemble it to much.  If it is a 111W153, there should be three shafts counting the needle bar.  I only see one.  There is a army manual out there on this machine you should get a copy of before you disassemble the head.  Much more info than any  Singer manual. Written for the military during WWII.

glenn

[kevinkay]

If I am understanding you - Yes, 3 rods. 

i have a copy of that  WWII Parachute repair manual 

THANKS!

[nylonRigging]

54 minutes ago, kevinkay said:

not disagreeing with your logic, but I think playing golf is a waste of time .  I am the guy cutting his own grass - pulling weeds without poison, rotating tires every 5000 miles,  draining the hot water tank once a year,  sealing the driveway every 3 years, and my 16yo Weber grill still looks like it was bought yesterday.

I want my machine to look like this and hope the "oil" decals are original to my machine    

-

NICE .. Man that 111 is Really SWeeeeet looking and clean .

.

[SARK9]

2 hours ago, kevinkay said:

I am going to research the 103, thanks!

The tag does say 153....but I have no explanation for it. The machine certainly LOOKS like a model previous to the 111W15(X) models. The common wisdom says they changed the stitch length adjustment from the dial on the handwheel to the stop button on the bed and a stitch length scale you viewed through a hole in the column after the 111W152 model (I have a W152 and it is fitted out as described), and also added a safety clutch to protect the hook, also with its own button in line with the stitch adjustment stop button. You can see the pretty prominent pair of buttons on the bed in the picture posted. The single button you refer to may be an oiler ball zerk, in the depressed area behind the bobbin cover plate. It really only matters if you are trying to find some of the parts for the earlier type machine in a W153 manual. I know several here own examples of the earlier 111W machines and can perhaps explain when the W153 runs actually began.

-DC

Edited April 25, 2019 by SARK9

[chrisash]

There must be a reason it looks like it was used for spare parts, maybe it was knackered in a factory and not worth repairing