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Posted

If there are already bolts in the back, consider putting longer ones in and using bolts on the outside.

Jack of all trades, master of some.

 

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Posted

When I fitted a needle positioner to my machine I removed the bolt in the center of the pully and used it to secure a nylon spacer that was supplied with the positoner, the alloy ring of the positioner then grips the spacer.To fit the L shaped bracket I had to drill and tap the machine casing in a suitable place, it wasn't a difficult thing to do, just a bit worrying at first.

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Without a photo of the back I couldn't tell if the linkage was there. Now it's obvious that the "pin" I saw is actually the linkage fitted in the pivot. That's good.

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

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Does anybody have a picture on how this knee lift (I got it) should press on this mechanism I got?

I found videos and pictures but none show this exact mechanism like I got. I'm not even sure it's a correct combo as this place on machine is like 1/8 of inch thick, how should lifter on a picture push on it?

Also what is the role of "stopper" ? It's another thingy on a shaft

 

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Posted (edited)

Turn your knee lift assembly ( the one in the bottom photo b) over..so that the flanges with the mounting holes are facing the upwards..

then you'll see..

In the top photo...the part which is "beak shaped" ( with the little return spring on it ) on the bottom of your sewing machine... rests on, and rides along the angle bar that is locked to the large bar between the two flanged brackets on your knee lift assembly ( bottom photo )..as you push on the knee lift the whole bar ( between the two flanges ) pivots and the angles bar pushes against the "beak"..the more you push against the knee lift the further along the beak is pushed towards the end of that small bar, that lifts the foot..when the foot is down the beak is nearer to the forged part that the angles bar passes through..The locking bolt that secures that angled bar, is so that you can adjust the point at which the beak contacts that bar..that way you can adjust the amount of lift..

Hope that makes sense.

I have drip trays on all of my machines '( except the patcher ) so I'd have to remove one to photograph how it fits..perhaps someone else has a knee lifter with no drip tray..once you have seen how it fits..it will be a "doh" moment..We all have them :)

Edited by mikesc

"Don't you know that women are the only works of Art" .. ( Don Henley and "some French painter in a field" )

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Posted
7 minutes ago, mikesc said:

In the top photo...the part which is "beak shaped" ( with the little return spring on it ) on the bottom of your sewing machine... rests on, and rides along the angle bar that is locked to the large bar between the two flanged brackets on your knee lift assembly ( bottom photo )..as you push on the knee lift the whole bar ( between the two flanges ) pivots and the angles bar pushes against the "beak"..the more you push against the knee lift the further along the beak is pushed towards the end of that small bar, that lifts the foot..when the foot is down the beak is nearer to the forged part that the angles bar passes through..The locking bolt that secures that angled bar, is so that you can adjust the point at which the beak contacts that bar..that way you can adjust the amount of lift..
...
I have drip trays on all of my machines '( except the patcher ) so I'd have to remove one to photograph how it fits..perhaps someone else has a knee lifter with no drip tray..once you have seen how it fits..it will be a "doh" moment..We all have them :)

Mike,

I kind of understand that, I just wasn't sure how precise "beak" and "bar" have to be positioned because of sizes and fact that machine can move a little from back to front. Main thing - you confirmed that this combo should work.

I don't have to see how bar contacts "beak", but if you can post picture of lifter when machine tilted back - that would help a lot, I just want to understand how it's oriented once installed. No need to remove tray for that, no need to show contact of beak. Just picture of opening from a top.

BTW, my tray is 3in deep (tray itself), so holes will have to be made in order to install it. I will have to remove tray, install lifter, then measure where holes will be. I was making new tray for another machine and made it 2in deep to clear lifter if needed.

 

Posted

Here is a video that show where the knee lift mounts. The link should start at 19:14 where the lift is installed

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Ferdco Juki Pro-2000, Juki DNU-1541S, LS-1341, LU-563, DLN-9010A-SH, MO-6714S,  Consew 206RB, 206RB-1, Chandler/Bernina 217 6mm w/Cam Reader, Brother LT2-B842-5

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Posted

Ok, video helped. Now I know that shaft need to be on a same line with 2 motor bolts. Do I understand correctly that it should touch "beak" like on a picture? What position should I target for?

 

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Posted

That looks good. Set the height of the bent post so it moves the lifter crank far enough to fully lift the feet and open the top tension disks. Lock in the position of the bent rod, then set the motion stop block on the knee lever so you can't push too far.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

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Posted

Wiz, all 3 pics different. I'm trying to understand in what position shaft have to be in relation to beak.

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