Prepunching Holes?

[MortonSupplyCo]

Hello, 

Certainly there is a wealth of experience here on this forum, so perhaps someone could answer my query.   The preferred method for saddle stitching seems to be to hold the awl while working, punching each hole just prior to threading the needles through and so on. 

Why is this? 

In the many videos I have looked at about hand stitching I don't think any explained why.  Isn't it needlessly complicated when compared with prepunching the holes and then focusing just one threading with the two needles? What advantage is to be gained with this method?

 

Thanks

[mikesc]

Funnily enough, I know a guy who makes traditional bagpipes, he hand sews the bag..but has a walking foot machine just to punch the holes in the two parts ( which will be joined at the seams ) simultaneously ..in advance.Says it saves him a lot of time, and a lot of fiddling about with awls..He has shaped certain needles to replicate the holes that awls would make..

Edited May 31, 2019 by mikesc

[Tugadude]

1 hour ago, MortonSupplyCo said:

Hello, 

Certainly there is a wealth of experience here on this forum, so perhaps someone could answer my query.   The preferred method for saddle stitching seems to be to hold the awl while working, punching each hole just prior to threading the needles through and so on. 

Why is this? 

In the many videos I have looked at about hand stitching I don't think any explained why.  Isn't it needlessly complicated when compared with prepunching the holes and then focusing just one threading with the two needles? What advantage is to be gained with this method?

 

Thanks

Instead of saying the "preferred method", I think it is more accurate to say the "more traditional" method.  There is a reason why many expert saddle stitchers still prefer using an awl and believe it is the ultimate way to ensure quality products.  One reason is that when the right sized awl is used for the job, the width of the slit can be controlled so that the hole isn't so large that it is obvious after the thread is put through.  Also, a properly sharpened and polished awl pierces the leather but doesn't cut all the way through.  The tip of the awl is sharp to penetrate the leather but the sides are polished smooth but not sharp.  This way the awl expands the leather enough to allow the thread to pass through easily but then it almost immediately begins to close back.  That is why pre-punching with an awl isn't as effective as punching as you go.  With an awl you also have control over the angle, which for beginners can be a struggle.

For that reason and others you are seeing an explosion of stitching chisels.  These chisels are hammered through the leather, creating holes (either diamond shaped or not) that allow for fairly rapid, accurate work.  The type of chisel used, the shape of the teeth, the angle of same and the spacing all effect the finished work.  Some irons are chunky diamond-shaped affairs and can be quite visible after stitching.  Others are quite fine and disappear as well as those created by and awl.  The choice of thread obviously impacts this too.  Using too fine a thread can also result in showing too much of the slit.  I see examples of this quite often.

Some otherwise traditional leatherworkers are warming up to stitching chisels.  They see that a fairly high degree of quality can be achieved with little experience.  That makes chisels especially good for beginners.  As their confidence grows through turning out quality work, they can also begin practicing with an awl.  Some projects lend themselves to one or the other.  Fine, soft leather likely is better approached with a small awl.

Much more to say but I encourage you to watch (if you haven't), Nigel Armitage's youtube videos on stitching and on various stitching irons, chisels, pricking irons, etc.  They are not all created equal.  Pricking irons typically mark holes, not make them and stitching irons or chisels make holes.  But on very thin leather, pricking irons can indeed make holes and stitching chisels can certainly be used to simply mark holes in a straight line.  So there is some crossover.

Hope that helps for a starter.

[fredk]

2 hours ago, MortonSupplyCo said:

Hello, 

Certainly there is a wealth of experience here on this forum, so perhaps someone could answer my query.   The preferred method for saddle stitching seems to be to hold the awl while working, punching each hole just prior to threading the needles through and so on. 

Why is this? 

I think it is 'traditional', stemming from the days when there weren't so many handy tools for marking and punching sewing or lacing holes

2 hours ago, MortonSupplyCo said:

In the many videos I have looked at about hand stitching I don't think any explained why.  Isn't it needlessly complicated when compared with prepunching the holes and then focusing just one threading with the two needles? 

Yes, it is complicated and unnecessary. I use these [photo below] sewing-hole pliers for punching holes for sewing. I have them in 4-tooth and 2-tooth. I can glue two bits of project together and punch the sewing holes in a just a few minutes. I do keep an awl handy for any holes that need opening up better. If I cant punch the holes in both pieces after glueing I punch them in one piece and use the awl to make the hole into the second piece, thru the pre-punched hole.  I also have similar pliers for 3mm lacing

These punch diamond shaped holes neater, more evenly spaced than I can do with an awl. The holes are suitable for up to 1mm thick thread, 0.8mm is about best with them.

 

2 hours ago, MortonSupplyCo said:

 What advantage is to be gained with this method?

None, but the worker thinks he/she is doing it the 'proper' way, the 'only' way

[MortonSupplyCo]

39 minutes ago, fredk said:

 

 

 

I am familiar with these pliers.  I have a set myself, and find them indispensable for working with heavy leathers for bags and satchels.  The prepunching the stitch holes on two layers of 9+oz leather is made immeasurably easier with these, especially with pieces glued in place.  

[bermudahwin]

2 hours ago, mikesc said:

..but has a walking foot machine just to punch the holes in the two parts ( which will be joined at the seams ) simultaneously ..in advance.

I have just done this to get an even run around an odd shaped piece, glued, and will stitch tomorrow.

If it works I may try it around a belt, see if its quicker.

H

[Alexis1234]

I do a lot of hand stitching. I think the reason the holes aren't pre punched is because they have a tendency of closing back up(so I've read) . I have tried using a machine to punch holes, but have noticed a difference- the stitching isn't slanted like when hand stitching. I would assume it depends on the project, but for certain things, I really like the look of saddle stitching and the precision placement I'm able to get.

[zuludog]

Search YouTube for 'Nigel Armitage Pouches' He has made several types of belt pouch, mostly with pre-punched holes for stitching, showing clearly the design and methods used

The results are excellent!

[chiefjason]

I chuck an awl into a floor drill press to pre punch my holes.  Never had an issue with them closing up, even if it took days to get to the project.  And you get the awl shaped hole, which allows the thread to lay down nicer.  A drilled hole will let the stitch stand out from the leather more.  I also put a thin piece of cardboard under the leather.  That keeps the back side from getting marked up by the table on my press.  The way I make my holsters it seems the best way to deal with the issue.  

[dikman]

I've been pre-punching the holes using a sewing machine since I started. It just seemed logical to me, as it gives a neat row of evenly spaced holes and ensures that the holes on the backside of the leather are also straight and not wandering! I've got some punching/stitching chisels but don't use them much. The trick is to make sure the needle in the machine isn't too big as it's the awl, when pushed through, that determines the shape and ultimate size of the hole.

In a sense I consider it the best of both worlds - a machine to give neat straight evenly spaced holes (and it's easy to get the exact spacing that you want) along with the look and strength of hand stitching. Works for me.